On Bill Clinton Boulevard, a statue of the former U.S. president smiles saint-like over market stalls and coffee shops. Swaggering youths shout to hear one another over the call to prayer and the car horns. Nearby, a taxi driver has fallen asleep with his radio at full volume, the pounding ethno-pop beat pulsing through the window. Wake him up, and for five euros he will take you anywhere. Tell him you are British, American – any nation who backed Kosovo’s independence – and he might even hug you.
Apart from being a city name, Pristina is also a girl’s name, which means: ‘the one who is unspoiled’.
The traffic pours heavily down George Bush Street: past the abandoned Serbian Orthodox church and the new Albanian Catholic cathedral. History, here, is happening now ... but you will have to slow down to see it. So do what the locals do – sit back and order a caffé macchiato. Try some roasted chestnuts or a crispy, pastry burek – a local speciality – and your Pristina adventure will be just about complete.