A tree-hugging party crowd has been taking Goa’s coastline hostage since the 1960s, but India’s smallest, wealthiest state has plenty of magic to go around. Call it ‘susegad’ – the art of contentment and winding down – but tropical Goa has a grace and pace all its own. Tourism and tradition get along famously here, as head-pounding trance seemlessly mixes with Konkani hymns. Portuguese heritage sites lean up against trashy tourist shops, and yoga retreats and wildlife sanctuaries counter an endless supply of cheap ‘feni’, the local spirits. Biodiverse, rugged and laid-back, Goa is blessed and the Goans aim to keep it that way, though they will happily share their colonial mansions, crooked streets, fish curries and sunsets. It is wonderfully easy to claim your own peace of mind amidst the mayhem: transcend the overzealous soul searchers, and Goa’s song is just within ears’ reach.