Behind crenulated stone ramparts, a maze of narrow streets wind around the hillside. A potter sits at the doorway of his small workshop, his terracotta creations balanced precariously outside. If you walk down these streets from the castle, you will find an artisan world where traditional skills survive and smoky spices linger in the air. This is Ankara Citadel, a contrast to the rest of the capital, where swish tower blocks and grand embassies dominate.
Ankara holds the record for the largest ever döner kebab. It weighed over a tonne and had to be hung from a crane.
Downtown at Kizilay Square, youngsters relax by the fountains, showing off their latest purchases from the palatial malls nearby. If you long for traditional culture, slip away into one of the hammams, where you can be soaked, scrubbed and pummelled in ornate marble surroundings. Afterwards, indulge in some of Turkey’s best seafood – a delicious surprise in a landlocked capital.