The river Seine flows east to west, cutting the city in two. North of the river is the right bank – rive droite – and to the south is the left bank – rive gauche. Several bridges connect the two parts, but in daily life many Parisians are explicitly either right-bank or left-bank people, meaning they only cross ‘the border’ when they have errands to do.

Right bank, is the business- and commercial centre, left bank the traditional domain of the intelligentsia, writers and artists. However in recent years many artists and more bohemian people have moved to the east of Paris on the right bank, in the 9th, 10th and 11th arrondissement, as the rents on the left bank have exploded.

Getting around

Getting around is remarkably easy. The public transport system is cheap, fast and meticulously signposted. The Métro, combined with the RER express lines to the suburbs, is the simplest way of moving around. The metro runs from 5.30 am to 12.45 am. The lines are colour-coded and numbered. The RER lines are designated by letters.

Busses are another possibility. More slowly than the metro, but you see more. In general, they start at 6.30 am and stop at around 9 pm.

The same tickets are valid for bus, metro and RER within the city and immediate suburbs. For a short stay in Paris, buy a carnet of ten from any station or tabac.

Alternatively you can bike around. The self-service rental bicycles, Velib’, have become a huge success in recent years. 25,000 bikes are available from stations all over town, some 300 metres apart, and they are free the first half hour.