The ancient and the modern centers of European Istanbul are connected by the Galata Bridge across the beginning of the Golden Horn. On one side of the bridge lies the small peninsula on which most of Istanbul’s main sights are located, mostly in the historical Eminönü and Sultanahmet districts, while on the other side lies Beyoğlu, heart of the modern city. The atmosphere on one side of the bridge is quite different from that on the other. The old centre is a historical and tourist area, with Ottoman and Byzantine ruins, grand mosques, Turkish baths and more traditional neighbourhoods, while the modern centre in Beyoğlu, spreading out from Taksim Square, has a dynamic big-city feel with trendy shops, cafes, 19th century Art Nouveau buildings and art galleries.  

While the sights and locations in Istanbul which attract the most visitors are situated in European neighbourhoods of Istanbul, the Asian side also has much to offer. Traditional Üsküdar is famous for the Maiden Tower,  is home to many beautiful mosques and a few tiny historical Turkish baths. Visitors also like Kadıköy, which feels quite “Mediterranean” with its colourful food market streets, bohemian pubs, students, taverns and churches.   

Getting around

When you first arrive in Istanbul make sure to purchase an Akbil, a small refillable token which allows travel on most forms of the city’s public transport in Istanbul. The Akbil is easily bought (for a small deposit fee) at bus stations and Akbil kiosks.

Istanbul’s bus network spans the entire city and buses run frequently. The main bus station is at Taksim Square, and from here buses run to every part of the city. Other main bus stations are Beşiktaş and Eminönü on the European side, and in Asia, Üsküdar and Kadıköy. Exact schedules and fares can be found at the website of Istanbul’s public transportation company İETT.

On hot summer days the ferry boats (vapur) and sea buses (deniz otobüsü) that cruise up and down the Bosphorus, are favorites of locals and tourists alike.  Perhaps the most useful means of public transportation for visitors is the blue tramway from Kabataş to Zeytinburnu. This tramway line travels through the main sightseeing areas and connects to the funicular railway line to Taksim Square. In addition, it connects to the airport subway at Zeytinburnu station.
   
Unfortunately Istanbul’s subway currently does not cover even the most central areas of the city and consists of only two disconnected lines on the European side. However, subway construction is continuing and new stations open every year. Work is also continuing on the Marmaray, a projected subway line under the Bosphorus, which will connect the European and Asian sides. Conveniently, however, it is now possible to travel by subway directly from Istanbul Atatürk Airport to Aksaray, relatively close to the historical district of Sultanahmet.

In Istanbul’s busy streets you’ll also see numerous small, and usually yellow, mini-buses called dolmuş. Their destination is written on the window, and the bus departs when it is full (dolmuş means filled). The fare is paid directly to the driver.