Photo: Miriam.Mollerus
Alcohol consumption is forbidden by Islam, but like most things, just because it’s prohibited doesn’t mean it never happens. In fact, Cairo’s local drinking scene is alive and well and the 'baladi bar' is an Egyptian institution.
Small, crack in the wall, watering holes are plentiful, filled with middle aged Egyptian men drinking Stella beer and whiskey, shelling tirmis, white, watery beans. Often run by the Coptic Christian minority, the options for baladi bar hopping are abundant; the trick is knowing where to look.
Shady joints, up darkened stairs with belly dancers or inconspicuous doors off the street opening into small smoky rooms crammed with tables-- whatever kind of night you are in the mood for, moving between these bars in a small group is only complicated when someone in the party doesn’t feel like leaving one cheap joint for the next.
Stella came out with a map of all the Downtown bars. If you can get your hands on one, they are the best way to plan your night.
Sarah A. Topol became obsessed with the urban sprawl while growing up in New York City. To her own surprise and that of her worried mother’s, she ended up settling down in Cairo - one of the most congested, polluted and sometimes beautiful cities in the world. Her goal: to be mistaken regularly for an Egyptian. She is a freelance journalist, you can find her other writing here.
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