Feeding the pigeons on Plaça Catalunya Photo: Serge Melki

My first flat in Barcelona seemed like a real bargain. Overlooking central Plaça Catalunya it was not only big but also fairly cheap. I soon found out why. Situated in the ground cero of Barcelona’s hottest shopping area it was a daily struggle to get out of the front door without being swept away by mad flocks of tourists and locals in pursuit of a new pair of shoes.

Bar Kasparo on Plaça Vicenç Martorell Photo: Oriol Lladó

I lasted less than a year in the flat. But before moving on to a more genuine neighbourhood I discovered a few nice and nearby places. Carrer Tallers is a paradise for people old-fashioned enough to still buy their music in shops. Bar Boadas in the same street makes brilliant cocktails. And the cafés on Plaça Vicenç Martorell are surprisingly quiet and perfect for hanging out.

But if I defy my shopping phobia and pay a visit to my old ‘barrio’ as often as possible it is mainly because of Julivert Meu. The main attraction of this old style Catalan restaurant situated on Carrer Bonsuccés 7 is the botifarra amb mongetes. Made out 'real' meat and fried along side with white beans, garlic and parsley, this tasty sausage is the national dish of Catalonia and difficult to find better cooked than here. Side orders like tomato bread and a few of the red bell peppers known as pimiento de piquillo, marinated and slightly spicy are also highly recommendable.

The botifarra served at Julivert Meu is the classical no nonsense version. They come with all sorts of stuffing, though, mixing minced pork with cheese, mushrooms, almonds and cuttlefish among other surprising ingredients. You can also try them out at one of central Barcelona’s best delicatessen, La botifarreria de Santa María on Carrer de Santa María 4.