It was halfway through the concert when Harry Connick Jr. suddenly told his musicians to stop. The American bandleader had a long look around the rich decoration of Palau de la Música. Then he said: “I’m sure these sculptures are very important to your cultural heritage. But, Jesus, they really freak me out!”

Connick Jr. is right. Barcelona’s old music hall, build a hundred years ago by one of architect madman Gaudís colleagues, is a freaky place. At one side of the stage a bust of Beethoven is almost run over by a bunch of wild Wagner-valkyries in a wagon. Behind it a series of muses look like Inca-mummies buried halfway into the wall. And at the back of the hall two enormous Pegasus horses jump right out over your head.

The place is simply too much but that’s exactly what I love about it. A night at El Palau is like being part of a weird fairytale. And strange as it may seem it is also a perfect setting for all kinds of events. I have seen gigs as different as the Danish Radio Big Band, flamenco singer Diego ‘El Cigala’ and noise rockers The Tindersticks perform here and all were brilliant.

There is almost always something interesting on at El Palau and if not it’s worthwhile a visit anyway. You just close your ears and open your eyes.

Guided tours are available everyday from 9.00 to 15.30.

Palau de la Música Catalana, C/ Sant Pere Més Alt, s/n.