Norway Nomad

MY GRAND NORWEGIAN FANTASY

Johanna C. Leahy — Tue, 09 Sep 2008 08:45:00 GMT

Here’s the thing. As I live in Oslo, I don’t stay at hotels in the city. There’s a shortage of rooms anyhow, with business travellers clogging up reservations throughout the year.

But when I fantasise about a night away from the kids, of dipping my toe (or all ten of them) into the persona of the carefree tourist, I picture myself emerging from the Grand Hotel’s Sunday Jazz Brunch onto Karl Johans gate, Oslo’s main street, blinking in the glare of the dazzling northern light, and greeting the city on my doorstep.

As its name implies the hotel is very grand. It’s also old (1874) but modernised whilst maintaining its atmosphere of tradition and style. Ibsen used to sip coffee in its café, Nobel laureates overnight there, and I once came across a crowd waiting outside for a glimpse of Tom Cruise and Oprah who were staying there (at the same time but not together, presumably). Needless to say I was above such celebrity-induced lingering and simply walked on straining my neck trying to look backwards just in case they might appear.

Should I opt to leave my husband at home as well as the kids, I’d be tempted to stay on the hotel’s Ladies Floor which, unsurprisingly, is just for ladies. It has thirteen rooms individually designed in collaboration with 13 famous Norwegian women, to ensure a unique aesthetic experience.

The Grand is five-star, prestigious, expensive and almost certainly very posh; worthy of fantasy indeed.

The Grand Hotel, Karl Johans gate 31, Oslo

ÅPENT BAKERI: PASTRY TO DIE FOR

Johanna C. Leahy — Tue, 26 Aug 2008 19:10:00 GMT

Someone told me, when I first moved to Oslo, that the best bread in town came from Åpent Bakeri. Almost four years on, I still haven’t found a better place to relax, sip coffee, and indulge in a delicious piece of bread or pastry.

There are a few Åpent Bakeri outlets in the city, but my favourite has got to be the café at Ulleval Hageby, around 10 minutes walk from Ulleval Stadium’s T-bane stop. A wall of hand-made bread, freshly baked on the premises, makes for a tough decision but I nearly always opt for a piece of muesli bread which, with its nuts, fruit and wholegrain flour would be healthy if it wasn’t for the sheer size of it; this roll is a meal in itself.

If you’re digestive system isn’t up to the high-fibre challenge, I can highly recommend boller (soft, sweet rolls infused with just the right amount of cinnamon), scones with raisins, nuts and a hint of orange zest, or the ever-reliable treat that is pain au chocolat.

The café’s interior is bright and fresh, with black and white tiles on the floor, and snazzy lighting on the wall. However, if the weather is good enough – and Norwegians sit outside even in the cool weather of spring and autumn, using the blankets provided for warmth - the terrace is a must.

It pays to turn up early, as the bread disappears fast, with lots of people doing take-away, and vacant seats at a premium. One advantage of having to queue at the counter is the time it allows for gazing at the glorious bread and making what can be a surprisingly difficult decision.

Åpent Bakeri, Damplassen 24-25, Oslo.

VIGELANDSPARKEN: OSLO'S AMAZING SCULPTURE PARK

Johanna C. Leahy — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:41:00 GMT

The first time I visited Vigelands Park, a group of Japanese tourists gestured me into having my photo taken with them. I hadn’t the heart or sign language necessary to explain that I wasn’t in fact Norwegian, having just stepped off the plane myself. I assume that that is what they wanted - a picture of a genuine Scandinavian person posing at one of Oslo’s most photographed landmarks.

Photo by gerry.scappaticci

Looking back, I can’t really fathom why these visitors were so keen on getting a picture of a living person in workout gear and baseball cap (and no makeup!) on a Sunday stroll, when the real photo opportunities were the 212 life-like bronze statues in the park.

I still tend to gawp in amazement at the skill it took to create these bronze people; the men and women are fatter and shorter than today’s typical models, and all the more lovable for it.

Photo by Trebz

My favourites are the phallic monolith with human bodies intertwined, the man juggling babies (just like me, but naked), and the angry baby throwing an incredibly life-like tantrum, all without a stitch of clothing on.

I never visit Vigelands Park without a camera, as the bronze people make great photographic subjects, with the weather and light always making a difference. I have to choose my times carefully though when trying to capture arty shots that look great in sepia or black and white; it can be hard to avoid those darn tourists who insist on getting in the way.

Go further: There is no entrance fee at Vigelandsparken. Click here and find other things to see & in Oslo - the world's the priciest capital - that won't ruin your budget.