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Norway Nomad
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en by Norway Nomad /  Johanna C. Leahy, 26. Aug 2008

Someone told me, when I first moved to Oslo, that the best bread in town came from Åpent Bakeri. Almost four years on, I still haven’t found a better place to relax, sip coffee, and indulge in a delicious piece of bread or pastry.

There are a few Åpent Bakeri outlets in the city, but my favourite has got to be the café at Ulleval Hageby, around 10 minutes walk from Ulleval Stadium’s T-bane stop. A wall of hand-made bread, freshly baked on the premises, makes for a tough decision but I nearly always opt for a piece of muesli bread which, with its nuts, fruit and wholegrain flour would be healthy if it wasn’t for the sheer size of it; this roll is a meal in itself.


If you’re digestive system isn’t up to the high-fibre challenge, I can highly recommend boller (soft, sweet rolls infused with just the right amount of cinnamon), scones with raisins, nuts and a hint of orange zest, or the ever-reliable treat that is pain au chocolat.

The café’s interior is bright and fresh, with black and white tiles on the floor, and snazzy lighting on the wall. However, if the weather is good enough – and Norwegians sit outside even in the cool weather of spring and autumn, using the blankets provided for warmth - the terrace is a must.

It pays to turn up early, as the bread disappears fast, with lots of people doing take-away, and vacant seats at a premium. One advantage of having to queue at the counter is the time it allows for gazing at the glorious bread and making what can be a surprisingly difficult decision.

Åpent Bakeri, Damplassen 24-25, Oslo.

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en by Norway Nomad /  Johanna C. Leahy, 23. Jul 2008

 

The first time I visited Vigelands Park, a group of Japanese tourists gestured me into having my photo taken with them. I hadn’t the heart or sign language necessary to explain that I wasn’t in fact Norwegian, having just stepped off the plane myself. I assume that that is what they wanted - a picture of a genuine Scandinavian person posing at one of Oslo’s most photographed landmarks.


Photo by gerry.scappaticci

Looking back, I can’t really fathom why these visitors were so keen on getting a picture of a living person in workout gear and baseball cap (and no makeup!) on a Sunday stroll, when the real photo opportunities were the 212 life-like bronze statues in the park.

I still tend to gawp in amazement at the skill it took to create these bronze people; the men and women are fatter and shorter than today’s typical models, and all the more lovable for it.


Photo by Trebz

My favourites are the phallic monolith with human bodies intertwined, the man juggling babies (just like me, but naked), and the angry baby throwing an incredibly life-like tantrum, all without a stitch of clothing on.

I never visit Vigelands Park without a camera, as the bronze people make great photographic subjects, with the weather and light always making a difference. I have to choose my times carefully though when trying to capture arty shots that look great in sepia or black and white; it can be hard to avoid those darn tourists who insist on getting in the way.

Go further: There is no entrance fee at Vigelandsparken. Click here and find other things to see & in Oslo - the world's the priciest capital - that won't ruin your budget.  

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