Meg Zimbeck

Racines Wine Bar - Now With Gas!

Meg — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 12:45:00 GMT

The foodie world was buzzing in January with news of Pierre Jancou’s new wine bar. The man who transformed and then sold La Crèmerie - a well-known haunt for left-bank wine lovers – was starting something new in the city’s oldest covered passage.

I went to Racines with a friend during its opening week, before they had even turned on the gas. It takes a special kind of place to prepare a memorable meal without even having a stove. A spell was nonetheless cast, primarily because of the wines – all untreated, small-batch beauties that come from trusted organic producers. These were accompanied by crusty baguette, farmhouse cheeses, rillettes, and a salad of vegetables from Alain Passard’s famous organic garden. Were we tipsy, or was this a nearly perfect lunch?

I returned yesterday with the same friend to explore that very question. With gas and a working stove this time, Jancou prepared festonati au ragoût (pasta with an authentic bolognese sauce), joue de cochon (pork cheeks), and a tartare (raw beef) with hand-cut fries. We had one of each, after revisiting his delicious salad and rillettes.

The Racines rematch found me (again) tipsy and completely won over. The complexity and unpredictability of the wine is a major reason, but I also love the care that goes into selecting each ingredient, the simplicity of preparation, and the obvious love that Jancou has for what he’s doing now. Be advised, however, that he also loves his family and spends his weekends at home with them. So book ahead (you won’t get in otherwise) for lunch or dinner Monday through Friday.

Racines (+33 1 40 13 06 41), 8, Passage des Panoramas, 75002. Métro: Grands Boulevards.

On Sanity And The Summer Sales

Meg — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:02:00 GMT

The summer sales have snuck up on me - I didn’t realize until today that the season is upon us.

While rushing through Gare du Nord, my eyes were surprised by a hundred neon signs promising 30, 50, and 70% off! Hours later on the rue de Rennes, the sidewalks were filled with women (elegantly) stampeding between the shops.

The first day during these bi-annual sales is always serious business. Many locals take the day off work in order to wage war with their wallets. Stores open as early as 8:00 am, and prime picks are cleared before lunchtime.

I learned last year, after nearly suffocating in the underground mall at Châtelet, that I lack the warrior spirit required for the first day of les soldes. Crowds are formidable, shoppers are frustrated, and sharp elbows are flying. I’m not sure that saving 7€ on a t-shirt is really worth it to me. My strategy now is to wait until the dust and the women have settled down. The pickings may be slim by then, but my sanity will remain intact.

The fashion-averse will be glad to know les soldes affect every sort of product. Hardware and cookware, electronics and lingerie – nearly everything is discounted during these government-regulated sales. The discounts grow deeper as the weeks progress, leading up to the August 2 deadline. The final days of July will see the racks nearly empty, with only a few odd pieces and one very calm shopper – me.

Off The Track At Tram Tram

Meg — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 16:15:00 GMT

It’s not difficult to find a good restaurant in Rome. But it’s nearly impossible to find one that’s not filled with foreigners. I arrived in the Eternal City with the dream of finding the virgin trattoria – a charming place not yet covered by tourist fingerprints. That dream, I soon realized, is mathematically improbable. With the Eternal City now clocking 100,000 daily visitors, almost every threshold, no matter how “insider,” has been crossed.

The only hope for those who yearn to eat among the locals is to walk far away from the center into a neighborhood not on most maps. San Lorenzo lies just outside the walls to the east of Termini train station. It hosts a university, affordable housing, and very few tourist attractions. It’s where we found our longed-for trattoria.

There were no guidebooks in sight when we arrived at Tram Tram for lunch. To celebrate our success in finally evading the horde, my friend and I decided to really go for it, ordering a bottle of wine and plate after plate of delicious food. The orechiette alla Norma was abnormally good, and my simple veal dish made me stammer. Even our contorni (the vegetable side) was remarkable – a puree of fava beans in grassy olive oil with the sharp taste of sautéed chicory.

This wholly satisfying feast, topped off by espresso and dessert, was ours for less than 50€. There’s no doubt I’ll be back the next time I’m in Rome, and other dreamers (who aren’t afraid to work for it) are advised to follow suit.

Tram Tram (06-490416) via dei Reti 44/46, Rome

Love In An Elevador

Meg — Mon, 30 Jun 2008 10:09:00 GMT

Photo from Leandro's World Tour

Lisbon is a city of hills – seven steep ones with winding streets and inspiring views. To reach the top, however, one need not ever break a sweat. Because every summit in town can be scaled by some sort of motorized transport. My favorite is the elevator.

The Elevador Santa Justa rises straight into the center-city sky. It connects the low-lying Rossio district with the hill-top Largo do Carmo. It may have been designed with practical intentions (in 1902 by a student of Gustave Eiffel), but the elevador exists today as one of the best drink spots in town.

A crowd is always cueing to enter the polished wooden cage at the base. The ride costs two subway tickets and is included in the price of a 1- or 3- day transport pass. Once inside, an old-school conductor throws a switch and soon you and 20 friends are ascending through the air. The doors open onto a very small terrace, with drinks – both coffee and cocktails – provided by a café.

Photo from Anna Pichard

For me, this was the perfect place to have before-dinner drinks before moving on to a nearby restaurant. From our perch at the top, we watched the sky change colors before deepening into a dark backdrop for the city lights below.

While most people seem to ride or walk back down, we walked over the bridge from the terrace to the hill top. Looking back at the elevador, I thought “thank goodness these Lisboans are lazy!” They really have a knack for making public transport sexy.

Elevador Santa Justa, Lisbon 1100

Go further: Also Francis in Stockholm has a soft spot for giant elevators. Read about his visit to Katarina Hissen here.

Deliciously Duped at Volpetti

Meg — Fri, 03 Dec 2010 15:01:00 GMT

Call us cheesy, but momondo has gone crazy for coagulated milk. We've given our writers the mission of uncovering 'le meilleur fromage' in Paris, 'il migliore formaggio' in Rome, the stinkiest cheeses in New York and the hands-down best cheeses in London, Madrid and Brussels. So grab yourself some bread and wine and join us on this tour of the best cheese shops in Europe.

Rome

Volpetti has been serving the working-class quarter of Testaccio since 1973. Over time, the deli has evolved into a foodie destination, a place to sample and buy some of the best products in Rome.

Volpetti’s employees are well-practiced in catering to the fantasies of food pilgrims. They were eyeing me from the moment I walked in – another foreign girl wearing a gluttonous grin. I was taken by the elbow and shown a starter cheese, an accessible pecorino. “That’s nice,” I said while nibbling on a wedge. “Now what else can I taste?”

My particular guide, after sizing me up, returned with a cheese and a conspiratorial wink. “Try this,” he said, pushing a slice toward me across the cold marble counter. “It’s very good,” I conceded, and he began slicing white fig and pouring some sweet white wine. “Together,” he nodded, and I married the tastes before melting into the floor.

What happened thereafter is a bit of a blur. There were many more cheeses, a number of sausages, vinegars and oils. I was moving around in a euphoric daze, tasting everything, shouting “si!”

I approached the cash register with some hesitation while my purchases were being wrapped. Just how much would all this cost, I wondered, catching sight of a frightening sticker. With the Bagoss di Bagolino priced at 90€ per kilo, I was glad to have asked for a very small slice.

"Your total is 114€, Signora. And our credit card machine is broken.”

After emptying my wallet and also that of my friend, we left completely broke and with thoughts of a conciliatory cheese party back in Paris. Another smiling young woman was entering Volpetti as we were going out. “Good luck,” I told her. “You’ll need it.”

Volpetti Deli Shop, Via Marmorata 47, Rome

Go further: See where in Rome Sari gets her Betty Crocker mix and sugar-free jello.....

The Girls Of Trevi

Meg — Tue, 08 Jul 2008 16:45:00 GMT

It’s often said that the Trevi Fountain looks like a stage set. Indeed, the 250 year-old fountain has provided a backdrop to many notable performances. Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn dallied around it in Roman Holiday. And a very well-endowed Anita Ekberg was drenched here by Fellini in the classic film La Dolce Vita.

Today, however, some very young starlets are dominating the Trevi stage. I sat there recently while happily munching a big cone from Il Gelato di San Crispino. While working my way through a melon sorbet, I couldn’t help but smile at the teenage girls who were posing on the rocks below.

Photo by Andy Hay

Instead of reflecting on the Baroque architecture, or fishing in my bag to find three coins (tossing them into the water brings marriage or divorce, according to the legend), I was busy watching a long series of girls flip their hair, arrange their legs, and smile for the souvenir shot.

"I don’t think we can claim to have visited Rome without this sort of evidence,” I said. My friend - perhaps fortunately - was less enthusiastic about the idea of watching a grown woman trying to crash the pose party below.

"No matter,” I said, finishing the last of my gelato. “I think it must be time to eat again…”

Il Gelato di San Crispino, Via della Panetteria 42, Rome

Going Goa In Lisboa

Meg — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 16:15:00 GMT

Anticipation seems to play a big role in how much I enjoy a restaurant. If my hopes for a place are high – if it’s been extolled everywhere as 'amazing' and 'authentic' - the chances are good that I’ll be disappointed.

Over-hype can kill an experience, but the result, thankfully, is also true. Low (or no) expectations can magnify the pleasure of encountering something great. That was certainly the case with a recent meal at Tentações de Goa.

I sought this place out because I couldn’t in all honesty face another Portuguese meal. I loved the local cuisine in all of its greasy glory during the first six consecutive days. On the seventh night I broke down and turned to the former colony of Goa for a culinary interlude.

Photo by José Manuel Pinto

A local Lisbon friend recommended this casual restaurant “in a dark alley that isn’t as dangerous as it seems.” True to description, Tentações de Goa was located on a side street with few working lamps. The building number wasn’t there, or was too difficult to read, and passed the door several times before finally thinking “this must be the place!”

Once inside, we were greeted with a very warm welcome and the promise of cold vinho verde. We asked the friendly waitress to bring us whatever she thought was best. Soon enough we were feasting on Bojés com Chetni, Camarão Recheado, and Xacuti de Cabrito.

The Bojés were fried, the sort of fritters one finds in every Indian joint. The chutney, on the other hand, was like nothing I’d ever tasted. Bright green – nearly glowing – the paste was thick and tasted fresh, hot, and tart.

Xacuti de Cabrito

The Camarão arrived bubbling in a low metal pan - stuffed shrimp in another gorgeous sauce. For the next course, Xacuti sauce enrobed tender cubes of baby goat. Had the sauce been covering socks, I would have happily continued eating – so good was this pungent curry.

Because we had stumbled in with no expectations, Tentações de Goa seemed doubly exciting. The modest bill – 35€ for 2 people, including a bottle of wine – also amplified our enthusiasm. But now that I’ve raved, I suppose there’s the possibility that I’ve set you up for disappointment. At the very least, you can expect to find fresh and interesting flavors at very reasonable prices. Whether it is also, as I’ve suggested, a minor side-street miracle, remains for you to decide.

Tentações de Goa, rua S. Pedro Mártir, nº 23

Go further: Fancy Indian food? Check out Henry's guide to his favourite Indian restaurants in central London here.

A Mod Hotel For Immoderate Drinkers

Meg — Wed, 13 Aug 2008 06:00:00 GMT

Paris is filled with lavish hotels - former palaces that have been converted into dens of discreet luxury. These are places that recall an earlier empire, or, depending on your cultural preferences, the last episode of Sex and the City. These are not places we can afford.

For those who still want old-world glamour, there are plenty of frumpy and over-decorated rooms for around 200€ a night. But rather than pay for over-priced knock-offs, smart visitors are eschewing tradition and going instead for something modern. A number of sleek and enlightened hotels have cropped up recently that are much better suited to our 21st century needs. Hôtel Amour, which Louise told you about earlier, is one of these. Another has emerged on the city’s trendy east side.

Photo by Supermaikhanh

I first learned about Le General when a visiting friend invited me to come to her hotel and get a drink at the bar. “A hotel bar? Why don’t we just go out instead?” I protested. She told me to trust her, and I wasn’t disappointed. Just a few paces from Republique, Le General is indeed branché (trendy) – all dressed up in chocolate, fuchsia and white. The bar was swank and I soon learned about the hotel’s other amenities - free wifi in every room, a 24-hour business center, and a fitness center with sauna. But most interesting (and unusual) was 'all-inclusive package.' A standard double room costs a modest (by Paris standards) 175€. But spend a little more - 235€ - and the all-inclusive rate gives access to a massive breakfast spread, a bathrobe, and (drumroll please) an open bar.

I suddenly understood why we were drinking at the hotel – my friend could down as many mojitos as she liked and her employer, who was paying, would never know. Is this not a business travelers dream? I was able in the end to drag her out and into the nearby Oberkampf area. The drinks weren’t free, but the streets were filled with bars and good restaurants. She had an easy stumble home after enjoying one of the most city’s most lively neighborhoods.

Since that night, when anyone young (with a compulsion for cocktails and internet access) asks for a hotel recommendation, I tell them about Le General. Especially if someone else is paying.

Le General, 5/7 rue Rampon, 11. arr. Metro: Republique

Find more hotels in Paris

The Best Cheese Shop In Paris

Meg — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 06:01:00 GMT

Call us cheesy, but momondo has gone crazy for coagulated milk. We've given our writers the mission of uncovering 'le meilleur fromage' in Paris, 'il migliore formaggio' in Rome,the stinkiest cheeses in New York and the hands-down best cheeses in London, Madrid and Brussels. So grab yourself some bread and wine and join us on this tour of the best cheese shops in Europe.

Paris

As a cheese-crazy city resident, I am often asked my opinion about “the Best Cheese Shop in Paris.” There are two ways to respond to this Important Question.

The first, a more complicated answer, is to say “whichever one is near your apartment.” In every Paris neighborhood, no matter how homely, there is a market street with independent shops selling fresh produce, meat, seafood, and wine. There is also, inevitably, a fromager. The quality of these neighborhood cheese shops can vary, ranging from simple sellers to artisans who play the dual role of fromager-affineur. This latter group takes a much more hands-on approach, buying their cheeses young and maturing them on-site in special aging rooms.

Photo: Paris Tourist Office/Amélie Dupont

Developing a relationship with your local fromager is a complicated but rewarding affair. I first started cultivating my cheese lady when I moved into the neighborhood four years ago. I began by showing up regularly, asking questions, and of course buying a lot of cheese. I learned the routine and (after a few gaffes) how to respond to her questions. For example, when she rested her knife on a large wedge of Comté and looked up with big eyes, she was asking about the size of my slice. When she said “c’est pour quand?” (it’s for when?) she was trying to select the perfect level of ooziness.

After several months of “practice” she began to counsel me about what was in season and what I should drink with my selections. In time, she learned to interpret me, too – to understand that there were days when I wanted to learn everything under the sun about a particular Beaufort, and others when I just wanted her to quickly choose something for an impromptu picnic at the Bassin.

My local fromager isn’t anything out of the ordinary - there's no reason to cross town for a visit. But this place is my school as I continue to discover the 400+ cheeses of France, and that make it le meilleur to me. The shop down the street from your apartment or hotel could also turn out to be "the best" if you turn on the charm and win the favor of your fromager.

The second and simpler response to the Best-Of question is “Barthélémy.”

Photo: tbonejuju

Cheese geeks will argue between this and Quatrehomme, but any Top Five list will include this shoebox-sized shop in the 7th arrondissement. The number of the choices is slightly overwhelming in this space where every available inch is used to display more than 200 selections from the man who wrote the book, literally, on French cheeses. Raw milk Camembert is the big draw at Barthélémy, but I also love their little buttons of chèvre (goat cheese) rolled in different spices, as well as the Vacherin that appears only in winter.

In nice weather, I like to pick up a few cheeses and head over to the nearby Esplanade des Invalides, a perfect picnic lawn with views of the gold dome and the Eiffel Tower. The quality of product and posh setting mean that the prices at Barthélémy are nearly double what I pay locally, but some summer nights require a little extravagance.

Fromagerie Barthélémy, 51 rue de Grenelle, 75007

The Cheese Geeks Of Linkebeek

Meg — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 08:35:00 GMT

Call us cheesy, but momondo has gone crazy for coagulated milk. We've given our writers the mission of uncovering 'le meilleur fromage' in Paris, 'il migliore formaggio' in Rome, the stinkiest cheeses in New York and the hands-down best cheeses in London, Madrid and Brussels. So grab yourself some bread and wine and join us on this tour of the best cheese shops in Europe.

Brussels

After four years of living in Paris, I probably qualify as something of a cheese snob. But because French fromagers rarely stock foreign cheese, I'm also pretty ignorant to the traditions of other countries. During a recent jaunt to Brussels, I asked a food-obsessed local friend where I could learn more about Belgian cheese. He told me there was only one game in town: the Crèmerie de Linkebeek.

The Crèmerie de Linkebeek has been operating since 1902, making it the oldest cheese shop in Brussels. The epitome of old-school, the name Linkebeek comes from the nearby village where the original owners kept their cows. Today, after more than 100 years in business, the shop still has a very retro feel. Its future, however, lies in the hands of a young upstart couple.

Jordan and Laurence Greenwood took the reins four years ago, revitalizing the shop and turning it into a foodie destination. "We're trying to honor the shop's history while also putting our own personal stamp on the place," Jordan told me. You can buy raw milk in glass bottles here, just like in the old days, but you can now also pick up a bottle of wine and some fig balsamic condiment.

As for their core business, Jordan and Laurence have sought out hard-to-find cheeses from small producers and have built the most impressive collection of Belgian cheeses to be found anywhere. Jordan explained that the main difference between the two traditions is that the French wash their rinds with with wine during the maturing process, and the Belgians use beer. That's because cheese production has traditionally taken place in monasteries – the same Abbeys that have been producing famed Belgian brew for centuries. In modern times, some beer companies like Chimay even make their own branded cheese. Jordan was explaining this all while illustrating with sample after sampe. I was in heaven.

Next up, I tasted some of the best-selling cheeses at Linkebeek - the Vieux Bruges, a hard cheese that seems the perfect partner for beer, and the Hervlon “extra piquant” double crème, a super stinky cheese that’s widely exported. Jordan said that the shop also carries a few cheeses that are on the verge of disappearing. Fromage de Bruxelles - a more pungent and salty version of fromage blanc - was devoured for breakfast by past generations of city-dwellers. Producers are dying off, so the older residents of Ste-Catherine flock to Linkebeek to get their fix while they still can.

In helping his customers to choose the perfect cheese, Jordan switches seamlessly between French, Dutch and English. The English bears a slight Brooklyn accent because a portion of his childhood was spent in New York. The mixed heritage gives him a linguistic edge and, more importantly, his grandma Shirley's recipe for New York style cheesecake.

Some of his personal favorites at Linkebeek are the Fleuron de Bruges and the Lebailli - a nutty cow’s milk cheese that’s washed in wine. He also loves (and I agree) the Testun al Barolo. An Italian sheep's milk cheese that’s been rolled in the marc of Barolo wine – it was smooth and delicious, almost dessert-like. He's also a big fan of the herbed ham and other charcuterie that's available for takeaway.

For those (like hotel-bound travel writers) who can't do takeaway, the Crèmerie de Linkebeek operates a lunch table on the adjascent terrace. Without worrying about where to store the leftovers, the cheese-curious can order up a sample plate or a light tartine of fromage blanc, spring onion, and radish. I kept company on the sun-dappled terrace with a towering slice of of that New York style cheesecake. Made by Laurence using grandma Shirley's recipe, it was the best that I've ever had.

Crèmerie Linkebeek; rue du vieux marche aux grains, 1000 Brussels (Ste-Catherine)

A New Design Hotel Blooms In Brussels

Meg — Wed, 27 Aug 2008 12:00:00 GMT

The “design” component of Hotel Bloom hit me over the head before I'd even walked in. The front windows are glammed up like department store displays, bringing funk to an otherwise unlovely exterior. Crossing the threshold and then the lobby, I found it difficult to decide where to look. On my left, two moddish egg chairs were dangling from chains.

Overhead, the intricately moulded ceiling competed with a wooden chandelier for my attention. The front desk featured a flatscreen with fashion week coverage, a bowl shiny green apples, and a receptionist named Pomme. She wished me a good stay and I rushed off to discover my digs.

Each room at Hotel Bloom bears its own stylish imprint. Young and talented (but not-yet-established) designers are selected to dress up a series of rooms. Far from "Pimp my Room" excess, however, the results are fairly low-key.

My room had a tastefully stenciled wall and an accompanying text from the artist about its meaning. The room was flooded with natural light and had a view over the nearby botanical gardens.

To get the travel kinks out, I took advantage right away of the fitness center down the hall. Alone in the room, I had my pick of about twenty brand-new cardio machines, and there was a gleaming weights set-up around the corner. Distraction came in two forms - looking out over the city skyline and watching the flatscreen TV.

Returning to my room, I stopped in the 8th floor lounge just to see what it was about. I found the traveling parents' dream: a spacious annex where brooding teens could be sent to watch movies (a DVD library), play video games (a Wii console) or goof around on the internet (several computer stations).

There was also a full kitchen and a dining room table. I made a mental note to remember this place if and when I ever reproduce.

Back in the room and after a shower in the nothing-special bathroom, I was ready for a little work. The extra-long desk let me to spread out my papers, fire up the laptop with free wifi, and get down the serious business of figuring out where to eat.

The in-room espresso maker kept me juiced, and a special speaker port for my iPod meant that I could sing along while selecting my targets.

The hotel restaurant S'Moods was definitely not on my to-try list. I love design in my hotel room but am suspicious of it in restaurants. At S'Moods, there are seven different "mood islands," each with a different style.

Diners can choose between "flower power" and "passions," among others (I'm not sure where the rustic wood cabin arrangement fits in). It looked like a fun place to drink, but I couldn't imagine eating there.

Of course I hadn't come to Bloom for the restaurant. I had come for the promise of stylish digs at an insanely low price. And bottom line, I wasn't disappointed. The rack rate for a double room is 290€, but the nearly perpetual internet specials keep the real price (at weekend) around 100€ per night. Even without the design flourish, this would be a great price for a very comfortable stay with plenty of little perks.

On the downside, the over-branding can be a little annoying (Hotel Bloom music CD, anyone?) and the 22€ breakfast supplement is more costly than you'd find in a 5-star hotel. I skipped it and instead took my coffee on the sprawling terrace at the neighboring botanic gardens.

Despite these drawbacks, I found Hotel Bloom to be an exciting place to stay. The design concept was well-executed, and not at the expense of comfort. And the services - free wifi, iPod port, fitness center and lounge - were spectacular for the 100€ price.

Hotel Bloom; 250 rue Royale, 1210 Brussels (St-Josse)

Vismet: A Great Catch In Ste-catherine

Meg — Wed, 06 May 2009 16:56:00 GMT

Before they were covered over in the 1870s, canals used to dominate the Ste-Catherine neighborhood. An old harbor and its accompanying fish market brought nautical color to the area, along with scores of fish restaurants. The harbor has long since disappeared, but Ste-Catherine remains a destination for seafood lovers. The marché aux poissons is still running (albeit only weekly) and the fish restaurants have happily stayed put.

Many of these (Bij den Boer, Jacques, le Pré Salé) are old-school joints with low ceilings and traditional recipes. But a relative newcomer has been making waves with its trendy style and tweaked approach to cooking. I had heard of Vismet before, but finally raced over to reserve when Jordan Greenwood - the man behind the famous Linkebeek cheese shop - told me it was one of his favorites.

We were seated on the terrace with a good view of the waiter gently turning away a procession of un-reserved hopefuls. Happy to have snagged a spot, we tucked into the two croquettes that arrived as an amuse - upscale versions of the Brussels bar staple. My starter came from the regular menu, salade de pinces de crabe fraîche, avocat et agrumes, and my friend chose mussels from the list of nightly specials.

As tasty as my crab salad was (fresh claw meat, homemade mayo on the side, perfect grapefruit), I couldn't keep my hands off those mussels. I'm normally not a fan, but these were moules de bouchot, raised on elevated platforms in Normandy to be small in size, sweet and nutty, without any trace of sand. They were sautéed simply with garlic and some smoky mild peppers. Our house white was chilling in a wine bucket cleverly stuck to the side of the table, leaving us plenty of table surface to jostle for the last shell.

After polishing off the last of our starters, I wandered inside to check out the main dining room. As lovely as the terrace is in summer, Vismet's interior looks right for a cold Belgian night. Warm wood, expensive lighting and an open kitchen create a theatrical setting for the performance of Tom Decroos. The jovial chef earned his stripes at the renowned Sea Grill, but unlike that two-star training ground, Vismet is moderately priced and draws a relaxed and trendy crowd.

When I returned to the table, my friend was still brooding over the loss of so many mussels. He brightened when the main dishes arrived - my grilled swordfish with sauce salmoriglio (lemon, garlic, olive oil and herbs) and his filet de merlu à la palermitaine.

I found myself again making sneak attacks across the table. My plate was perfectly fine, but the Palermo-style hake was simply outstanding - crispy and and flavorful skin atop melting interior flesh. With an eggplant gratin and a side of fries, it was enough to feed four.

After so much food, we passed on dessert but said yes to complimentary bubbly. My crab salad had been a mistake (I'd ordered something else) but I didn't fuss because the error looked (and was) very delicious. The champagne "sorry" was a nevertheless a nice touch and a perfect finish.

The damage: 87€ for two, with wine

VISMET; 23 place Ste-Catherine, 1000 Brussels (Ste-Catherine)

Stark Snark At The White Hotel

Meg — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:27:00 GMT

On paper (or the computer screen) The White Hotel seems like a dream stay. It's on the avenue Louise with posh shopping, arty drinking, and good eating just a stroll away. It brings in recognizable design talent to color up its naked white rooms. Best of all, it's ridiculously cheap - 75€ per night. High expectations, however, can lead to a serious let-down.

When I arrived at the White Hotel, I smiled at seeing a pair of motorcycles available for daily rental at 18€. Things continued in a good vein as I checked out the lounge with its shelves of design books and deep booths with surf-ready laptops.

When I turned the key in my room, however, I was shocked to see a stark white room with no design elements at all. Wasn't that supposed to be the point?

Later on, when I descended to hand over the supplementary funds for wifi service, I asked the manager whether all rooms were like mine. "Some rooms have design, some do not," she barked. "You have to request a room with design (like the one below)." She went on to explain that not all of the rooms were finished, despite being open for more than two years. "Come back after our next 'Plastic the White Hotel' event," she told me. "More rooms will be done then."

A finished room at the White Hotel

In the meantime, a booking at the hotel is likely to land you a very white and undesigned room. My IKEA showroom surroundings included paper-thin walls and a shower that bubbled loudly whenever the neighbor flushed his toilet. This was pushing it, even for the low-low price of 75€.

A bright spot arrived the next morning in the form of a very sweet breakfast for no additional charge. The do-it-yourself espresso machine let me drink far more than my body needed, and the range of savory and sweet treats (including homemade cookies) was more impressive than I'd been expecting.

The bottom line: this will likely be, in the year 2010, a fully-designed design hotel. But in 2008, the White Hotel is more like a budget option with a good breakfast and a convenient location. Bring your ear plugs and low expectations.

The White Hotel; 2 avenue Louise, 1000 Brussels

Daydreaming At De Ultieme Hallucinatie

Meg — Sat, 22 Nov 2008 08:00:00 GMT

Deriving its name from the personal hobby of architect Victor Horta (psychedelic mushrooms), De Ultieme Hallucinatie is indeed a fanciful place. No tie-dye or oversize peace signs here, just plenty of swirling art nouveau details and a “step back in time” feeling that comes as soon as you’ve crossed the threshold of this restored 19th century house.

We were greeted just inside the front door by a period piano, a marble staircase, and signature Nouveau adornments everywhere. It was silent here and we delighted in the time warp feeling for a moment before passing on through to the second room.

A polished wood table was lit by Tiffany lamps and surrounded by wall cupboards and tapestried sofas. We wondered if it was the original dining room of Paul Hamesse, the architect who redecorated this house in 1904 in the contemporary style. It was beautiful but felt like a museum, so we continued on to the next room and found - Bingo! - the bar.

One of the prettiest bars I've seen, it was a long marble counter framed by a series of carved wooden "windows" overhead, with natural light pouring through stained glass above. I could have spent an entire afternoon here exploring the beer list, but this was a rare sunny day and the action was on the terrace.

The fourth and final room at De Ultieme Hallucinatie is a patio, filled with greenery and (slightly stagnant) pools of water. We took a table in the sun and ordered up some croquettes, the nothing-fancy bar staple of Brussels. They grey shrimp variety was tasty, but the cheese croquettes were like glue and required lots of cold beer to wash them down. Lucky for us, there was plenty of that around. But the trippy stone walls looked as if they were melting long before we had taken our first sip.

Although the food isn't anything to write home about, De Ultieme Hallucinatie is worth a stop for anyone interested in architecture. Learning about the turn-of-the-century style is especially fun with a tall beer in hand. And Art Nouveau or no Nouveau, the sunny patio and stylish bar make an excellent stop before a concert at the nearby Botanique.

De Ultieme Hallucinatie; 16 rue Royale, 1210 Brussels (St-Josse)

The Bozar: It's Not Only "rock'n'roll"

Meg — Mon, 01 Sep 2008 15:35:00 GMT

The Palais des Beaux-Arts opened eighty years ago in jaw-dropping Art Déco digs by Victor Horta. The first multi-purpose arts center in Belgium, it contained a concert hall, theater, bookshop, restaurant, and plenty of galleries. For decades it was considered as a beloved but hardly ground-breaking national museum.

In 2002, however, the center got new leadership, a face lift and a sexy new moniker. The BOZAR is now positioning itself as a serious contender in the European contemporary arts scene. In trying to capture a more youthful audience, it's filling the program with edgy exhibitions.

The summer lineup in 2008 - the center's 80th anniversary - is no exception. "Opening Maps" (through September 21) highlights contemporary photography from Central and South America and the Caribbean, and the "Sony World Photography Awards" exhibit some of the best photos captured in 178 different countries (through September 16). The "PÔZE II" expo (through September 7) shows the winning self-portraits submitted by local inhabitants. Seen together, this "Summer of Photography" series offers a window on both Brussels and the world.

As good as it is, the Summer of Photography has been seriously overshadowed by the hype-monster expo of the summer. "It's Not Only Rock'N'Roll Baby!" has drawn swarms of visitors (including yours truly) to the BOZAR since it opened on June 20. Curated by Jérôme Sans, whose stuff I'd seen when he was the director of the Palais du Tokyo in Paris, the show gives a platform to musicians who also see themselves as visual artists.

Some of them - David Byrne, Yoko Ono, Patti Smith - are already well-established in both fields. But the visual side of musicians like Pete Doherty (Babyshambles, the Libertines) came as a surprise to me... until I saw the work. The contributions from this tortured prince of tabloids are pretty much exactly what you'd expect to see. In "The Red Portrait 2006," Doherty engraves the portrait of his bare chest with tattoos and drizzles the whole with his blood. It's blood and pencils again in “Look What They Done to the Boy,” in which Doherty seems to view himself as a pure poet corrupted by the world. I found myself rolling my eyes, then feeling sorry for him, then wanting to save him, then feeling bored.

“Look What They Done to the Boy" by Pete Doherty

Devendra Banhart, guiding light of the "psych folk" movement, is also working with overly self-conscious materials - several of his intricate drawings are composed on torn-out Bible pages. Fischer Spooner have filled a room with music and projected video collage (below), and Nick Zinner (Yeah Yeah Yeahs) is showing off photos taken on tour.

Additional photography is supplied by the Kills, who contribute a pile of TVs playing their videos along with Polaroids of their famous friends. It’s certainly interesting in a "look, here they are with Jack White!" sort of way, but it seemed much more Myspace than art.

As fun as this exhibition is, it's not much more than a brazen (and ultimately shallow) attempt to seduce young people into the BOZAR. But is that really so wrong? It's summer, after all, and a little light relief is not unwelcome. Besides, all of the emo-loving kids crashed out in Brian Eno's installation might come back for more substantive programming in the fall. The BOZAR calendar, including theater, dance, music, cinema and literary events, is online here.

BOZAR; Rue Ravensteinstraat 23, 1000 Brussels, Belgium