Mu Foo

LA CIGALE: COCTEAU, KUNG-FU & KICK-ASS SHOWS

2008-11-28T19:06:00Z

In the heart of the Pigalle sex district, just down the street from the storied Moulin Rouge, La Cigale is one of my favorite places to see live music in Paris.

Photo: Andreas Praefcke

Founded in 1887 and protected as a historical monument, it began life as a cabaret featuring stars like Maurice Chevalier. Later on, in the years followoing the first world war, La Cigale on 120 Boulevard de Rochechouart played host to vaudeville theater and futuristic parties by Jean Cocteau. From the 1940s on, it fell into a bit of disrepair, becoming a cinema that specialized in Kung Fu and later X-rated films.

The venue got a new lease on life in 1987 when it was taken over and redecorated by rising designer Philippe Starck. La Cigale returned to its roots and once again started pulling in the best singer/songwriters of the day. The plush red seating and curvaceous balconies provide a lovely setting for quiet shows. I saw Vincent Delerm here and loved curling up in my velvet chair while trying to translate his lyrics.

Photo: Mu Foo

Those same chairs are cast aside when the big bands come to town. La Cigale has a loud side, too, and books (along with la Maroquinerie) the best indie pop and rock shows in Paris. The main floor bounces like a trampoline during rowdy shows. As you can see from this video I made at last night's Vampire Weekend concert, you can't help but jump along.

After the Show
When I want a post-concert bottle or a bite, I head west half a block to La Fourmi. This cavernous bar, which has a fabulous wine bottle chandelier, is inexpensive good fun. They serve basic sandwiches and pasta until around 11pm.

Cul de Poule Photo: Mu Foo

Another alternative is to head south down the rue des Martyrs to Cul de Poule. This funky new hot spot serves great wine and simple food using top-shelf ingredients. Their kitchen stays open until 11pm, but they serve stellar charcuterie and cheese upon request until 1am. Play it safe and call ahead at +33 (0)1 53 16 13 07.

Advance Warning - If you're planning to be in Paris, you may want to reserve in advance for the following concerts at La Cigale:

November 13 - Franz Ferdinand
November 16 - Hot Chip
November 26 - Stereolab
April 08 - Kim Wilde
April 09 - Sébastien Schuller

Insider Tip - when shows are sold out there's almost always somebody standing outside selling extra tickets at face value. Just show up and keep your ears open - you can usually score a ticket. Increase your chances by carrying a sign that reads cherche billet.

Go further: Read here at which music venues in Stockholm Francis goes dancing and screaming and here to find out where in Prague Jason goes for inexpensive beer and Czech art-rock.

DAYDREAMING AT DE ULTIEME HALLUCINATIE

2008-11-22T07:00:00Z

Deriving its name from the personal hobby of architect Victor Horta (psychedelic mushrooms), De Ultieme Hallucinatie is indeed a fanciful place. No tie-dye or oversize peace signs here, just plenty of swirling art nouveau details and a “step back in time” feeling that comes as soon as you’ve crossed the threshold of this restored 19th century house.

We were greeted just inside the front door by a period piano, a marble staircase, and signature Nouveau adornments everywhere. It was silent here and we delighted in the time warp feeling for a moment before passing on through to the second room.

A polished wood table was lit by Tiffany lamps and surrounded by wall cupboards and tapestried sofas. We wondered if it was the original dining room of Paul Hamesse, the architect who redecorated this house in 1904 in the contemporary style. It was beautiful but felt like a museum, so we continued on to the next room and found - Bingo! - the bar.

One of the prettiest bars I've seen, it was a long marble counter framed by a series of carved wooden "windows" overhead, with natural light pouring through stained glass above. I could have spent an entire afternoon here exploring the beer list, but this was a rare sunny day and the action was on the terrace.

The fourth and final room at De Ultieme Hallucinatie is a patio, filled with greenery and (slightly stagnant) pools of water. We took a table in the sun and ordered up some croquettes, the nothing-fancy bar staple of Brussels. They grey shrimp variety was tasty, but the cheese croquettes were like glue and required lots of cold beer to wash them down. Lucky for us, there was plenty of that around. But the trippy stone walls looked as if they were melting long before we had taken our first sip.

Although the food isn't anything to write home about, De Ultieme Hallucinatie is worth a stop for anyone interested in architecture. Learning about the turn-of-the-century style is especially fun with a tall beer in hand. And Art Nouveau or no Nouveau, the sunny patio and stylish bar make an excellent stop before a concert at the nearby Botanique.

De Ultieme Hallucinatie; 16 rue Royale, 1210 Brussels (St-Josse)

LOCAL VIEW: ADAM KUBAN'S NEW YORK

2008-11-07T08:00:00Z

Photo: roboppy

How did a boy from Kansas become one of New York City's best-known food obsessives? By eating, mapping and meticulously describing the city's best junk food. Adam Kuban founded Slice, "America's favorite pizza weblog", and later branched out into buns with A Hamburger Today. Each of these food blogs takes its single-minded pursuit very seriously. It's no wonder, then, that they were taken under wing by Serious Eats, a fantastic food site where Kuban now serves as Managing Editor. With a resume like this, Kuban is exactly who you want managing your cheap eats itinerary. Lucky for Momondo, he's opened up to share a few favorites.This is his New York.

You've reviewed and mapped hundreds of pizzarias, but is there any one place that you keep going back to?

I keep going back to Di Fara Pizza and Una Pizza Napoletana, which are probably my two favorites in New York City. Di Fara makes an old-school pizza the way they used to make pizza in Brooklyn 40 years ago. It's a family operation, but the proprietor, Dom DeMarco, is such a perfectionist that he's the only one who makes the pizza. He's been making it for decades and hasn't even taught his kids how to duplicate his pizzas. At Una Pizza Napoletana, you'll get some of the best Naples-style pizza in New York. Again, this is a place where the owner-pizzamaker, Anthony Mangieri, is the only one who ever touches the pizza. Both these men are obsessive about their food, and they're involved with every step of its production, so you get a superior pizza.

Photo of Di Fara pizza: Adam Kuban

Some of your favorite pizzerias are way outside of Manhattan. Is there anywhere that a center-bound tourist can go to get a great slice?

Pizza Box and Joe's Pizza, both in Greenwich Village. Sal and Carmine's, on the Upper West Side. New York Pizza Suprema, across from Madison Square Garden. Those are all great slices. There are also places that sell pizza on a "whole pies only" basis, meaning you have to buy an entire pizza. These are usually sit-down, eat-in places. John's of Bleecker is one of my favorites. Arturo's Coal-Oven Pizza is also a great place for a whole-pie-only experience.

Photo of Joe's Pizza: Adam Kuban

Around the world "American food" equals hamburgers. Where would you send a visitor for a bite of this heritage?

Someone visiting New York City has to go to the Shake Shack in Madison Square Park. It's a little building nestled among the trees and bushes, and it makes the most amazing burgers. When it's nice outside, you can't get a table with a better view—parkland to one side, the landmark Flatiron Building to another. The burgers here are also a manageable size, so you can have your "American food" while avoiding the worst excesses of "American portions."

Photo of Shake Shack: Adam Kuban

Europeans are beginning to hear a lot about Brooklyn. What would you recommend for someone who's ready to go beyond Manhattan?

I'd recommend Williamsburg to anyone from Europe who wants to venture outside Manhattan. It's where the hip kids live, and there are good restaurants, lots of live music options, and small and interesting shops and boutiques. It's unlike any other neighborhood you'd find in Brooklyn—and it's a very short subway ride away from Union Square in Manhattan.

Photo of Times Square: mynameispaul

And finally - is there any particular place that feels incredibly, over-the-top New York to you?

As cliché as this is, Times Square is the most incredibly over-the-top part of New York to me. I still can't get over the light show there and the crush of people visiting. And if it all gets to be too much, I can hop into Jimmy's Corner for a drink. (140 West 44th Street, just off Broadway) Jimmy's is a throwback to a New York of a different era—its owner, Jimmy Glenn, is a boxing cornerman who has worked with the likes of Muhammad Ali!

Go further:

Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris

Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin

Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London

Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris

Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London

Local view: Gilles Valentine's Istanbul

SMELLS, BELLS & STORIES AT GOUMANYAT

2008-11-02T07:17:00Z

When I walk through the door at Goumanyat et son Royaume, I'm greeted by a cascade of bells and then the trickle of an indoor waterfall. It's a brief moment of calm before the sensory overload begins. I'm in the best spice shop in Paris, and my eyes and nose are going to be working overtime.

All photos: Mu Foo

I begin to scan the shelves and am soon approached by a friendly, soft-spoken man. This is Jean Marie Thiercelin, sixth generation owner, whose family has been trading in since 1809. He gives me a lengthy lesson about the history of saffron, complete with old photos of his grandparents, and then offers to take me to the bar. "Le Sniff Bar," that is.

Le Sniff Bar consists of more than twenty glass containers. Their contents range from the highest quality clove and star anise – two ingredients for which the shop is known – to specialties that Jean Marie creates himself. A blend like poivre de dames – a mix of pepper and Iranian rose petals – might be crafted especially for a local chef. Top restaurants across the city source their spices from la Maison Thiercelin, and Jean Marie counts chefs like Pierre Gagnaire among his clients and friends. He lifts the lid on jar after jar, and I'm intoxicated from the heady mix of stories and smells.

Jean Marie then invites me to explore the Chinese apothecary chests that house hundreds of powder-filled drawers. "The chests make sense," he explains. “Spice merchants were the original druggists.” He then excuses himself to greet some other clients in perfect English. There is plenty to keep me occupied, and I begin to fill a basket with delicacies. Low prices make it easy to experiment (saffron vinegar, smoked salt…) without breaking the bank.

Beyond spices, Goumanyat also sells books, high-quality knives, and cookware like Le Creuset. Not exactly easy to carry home in a suitcase, but nonetheless fun to drool over.

Down in the basement there's a carefully-stocked wine cellar and a demonstration kitchen. Cooking classes are taught here on Saturday afternoons. They cost 89€ for a three-hour session, and the theme changes every month. Sign up in November, for example, and you'll learn how to put on a twelve-course holiday meal. December on the other hand, is for serious foie gras gluttons. The fun part about these classes, explains Jean Marie, is that you can just run upstairs to the shop if you need a pinch of oregano.

When I finally leave Goumanyat, I'm shocked to discover that the afternoon is nearly over. The cure for my sensory overload is waiting across the street at Café Crème, where locals are gathering for the apéro. I sit among them and am joined by a friend for a pre-dinner drink. Sipping glasses of pastis, we turn the pages of Saffron: the Gold of Cuisine, Jean Marie’s book, and begin to dream about what we can cook.

GOUMANYAT ET SON ROYAUME, 3 rue Charles-François Dupuis, 75003.

CAFÉ CRÈME; 4 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 75003.

LOCAL VIEW: GILLES VALENTIN'S ISTANBUL

2008-11-01T16:11:00Z

Driven by "love and work, and the love of work," Gilles Valentin arrived in Istanbul seven years ago to work in the publishing industry. The native Frenchman travels extensively, but deeply loves his adopted city. "Every time I land back in town, I am taken by that homey feeling again, and I feel at ease, surrounded by the sea, the ancient and the modern, the crowd and the (rare) emptiness." This is his Istanbul.

Is there any particular place in Istanbul that represents the spirit of the city?

Istanbul is so diverse, multi-faced that it is hard to find one place that represents the true spirit of this city. Ortakoy can be a good place to start from though: A small village by the Bosphorus, it is a place where people from all walks of life gather to muse around, enjoy a tea by the sea, look at the view, shop for souvenir (although the place is mainly visited by local Istanbulians, it still has a distinctive touristy feel) or dine and party out in one of the posh clubs and restaurants around (Angelique, House Café, Banyan). It is also possible to enjoy smaller places with lovely rooftops terraces and embrace views of the beautiful Neo-Baroque 18th century Ortakoy Mosque, nested under the Bosphorus Bridge, spanning across the strait, the first physical connecting infrastructure between Europe and Asia. It is a nice place to sit on the edge of Europe and gaze through the waters, looking at the Asian shores. And for those who have a curious eye, it is possible to spot a small synagogue and an orthodox church, highlighting the truly multicultural dimension of the city.

Photo: Caiuscamargarus

Where do you go for a blow-out lavish sort of evening?

The choice of night spots is huge, but I would start by dinner at Mikla in Pera. The rooftop views are spectacular, and the food is a great combination of influences. 360 is also a good place to start an evening, as well as to continue it. Again, wonderful views and fusion food will kick start an evening very nicely. I would then head to The Hall, a great club that happens to be walking distance from either ones of these two restaurants. For early morning partying, there are plenty of bars and clubs that can finish off a lavish night nicely, and plunge you into a variety of atmosphere, from rock to posh. But for me, the nicest finish is always at a friend’s place or at home, with a Bosphorus view and a good bottle.

Photo: Mikla restaurant

What's the most memorable meal you've had in Istanbul?

Asitane is a very interesting restaurant, as they practice the art of ‘culinary archaeology’. Their menu is inspired by recipe books, menus and stories dating back to the Ottomans. A dinner at Asitane is a unique opportunity to share the festive menus of the Ottomans and enjoy the most traditional type of Turkish food, back to some of their very roots. The Chef and its team have been putting a lot of efforts to reconstitute these dishes and the result is truly spectacular. This is probably the best experience I had with Turkish food, besides the unrivalled home foods that one can enjoy when sharing the table with a Turkish family!

Photo: Asitane restaurant

I recently discovered a new restaurant, called Abracadabra, in Arnavutkoy. I enjoyed breakfast from their 3rd floor terrace. The place is nested by the water in one of my favourite places, Arnavutkoy, the ‘Albanian Village’, home to some of Istanbul’s most beautiful water-side houses. Abracadabra is in one of them, and despite being by the road, is a nice restaurant serving rather inventive dishes. From the top floor, the road is not so much of an issue anymore, and you can enjoy the view.

Where do you like to go on sunny day when you want to be outside?

I like to go to a place called Kuzguncuk, on the Anatolian coast, above Uskudar. It is a lovely valley, besides a large park, host to many old traditional wooden houses, old churches, mosques and synagogues and the village atmosphere is very enjoyable, when one wants to forget that Istanbul is hosting over 15 million inhabitants. It is a lovely place to walk around and enjoy the mix of beautiful houses and shanty-like habitations. I assume this place is headed for major changes in the years ahead, as the location, overseeing the Bosphorus, is truly spectacular.

Photo: TrekEarth

What's your favourite local place that you wouldn't necessarily recommend to tourists?

A place that I would recommend to tourists who don’t care about the way the place looks like, but can be amazed by the location is a tiny tea place on the left side of Mimar Sinan beautiful arts university. It is sitting literally on the Bosphorus, and on a wavy day, you’d better choose your spot carefully if you don’t want to be sprayed... The place doesn’t have a name [it's a man with a tea pot and three plastic chairs], but is a great place to stop for a quick tea and a fresh breath of saline air.

Find more roftop bar's in Istanbul here and read more about the brilliant restaurant Abracadabra here.

Go further:

Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris

Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin

Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London

Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris

Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London

Local view: Adam Kuban's New York

YO MAMA, YO MUSIC

2008-10-29T14:48:00Z

An out-of-the-way corner of the 20th arrondissement has recently become the center of hipster Paris. It all started with La Fleche d'Or - a locally-treasured concert hall that teeters above abandoned tracks. Formerly a train station, this cavernous space on 102 bis rue Bagnolet has for years been drawing crowds with it's free nightly shows. That's right, free concerts - with two to three bands playing every night, often followed by a DJ. The talent ranges from local and "interesting" to internationally-known and brilliant. Up-and-coming artists often play their first Paris gig here before returning to bigger shows at la Maroquinerie and other venues.

Photo: la Flèche d'Or

The spacious outdoor terrasse provides a place to talk with friends without having to shout. In the summer, people often spend more time here than inside watching the bands. If you didn't have time to eat beforehand, an adjoining restaurant puts out decent (not great) food. Drink prices are high here - a small beer will run you €6, and a watery cocktail is €8. But considering the free entry, it's still a relatively cheap night out.

Photo: la Flèche d'Or

I've seen countless good shows here (and quite a few bad ones, too), but my favorite took place last summer when Zach Condon (of the band Beirut) came to play with his idols, the Macedonian marching band Kocani Orkestar. The video below gives an idea of the kind of joy that can erupt in this place.

#60.9 - 60.10 - Zach Condon feat. Kocani Orkestar - Sunday envoyé par lablogotheque

The only downside of la Flèche d'Or is the post-concert journey home. But visitors can avoid that by staying in the hip new hotel across the street.

Mama Shelter

Photo: Francis Amiand

Open only a few months now, Mama Shelter is already a hotspot thanks to interior design by Philippe Starck, a funky bar and restaurant, and prices lower than you'd ever expect to find in Paris. Rooms start at just €79 (gasp!), and feature amenities like iMacs and Star Wars-themed bedside lamps.

Photo: Francis Amiand

In addition to its geek-chic clientele, Mama Shelter is also trying to seduce music fans. Understanding the allure of the neighboring rock club, the hotel has worked out a deal to let their guests jump to the front of the line at the Flèche d'Or. And because the queue can sometimes snake around the block, that little perk is nothing to sneeze at.

Photo: Mu Foo

For music-loving travelers on a budget, Mama Shelter and La Flèche d'Or are an unbeatable combination. The hotel is one of the cheapest (and coolest) in the city, and you can't beat the price of admission at the club. Although it may be far from the center, there's plenty to love about about this quarter. Père Lachaise cemetary is around the corner, and the sweet quarter of Saint Blaise with its winding cobblestone streets is just a short wander away.

MAMA SHELTER; 109 rue Bagnolet, 75020.

Go further: Find out where in Prague Jason goes when he in mood for Czech art-rock and ZZ Top covers here and were in Stockholm Francis goes crazy at concerts with Swedish pop sensation Robyn here.

LOCAL VIEW: LAUREN ELKIN'S PARIS

2008-10-17T12:21:00Z

Lauren Elkin, aka "Maîtresse" is the local go-to girl for learning about the literary side of Paris. Originally from New York, she has lived in Paris on and off since 1999. While working on a PhD in English literature at the Université de Paris VII, she's also managed to finish a first novel. And in her free time, she writes a blog about her bookish life in the City of Light. This is her Paris.

Photo by unsureshot

After almost a decade, you're something of a Paris veteran. But is there a place that, when you first arrived in Paris, held a certain magic for you?

There are so many places... the whole city has this amazing aura to it, every day I walk around and am thankful that I live here. But probably the Marais is the heart of my devotion to this place. I remember one night in the winter months of 1999, I was walking south on the rue de Turenne towards the rue St Antoine around 5 pm or so, but the sun was already setting and the world was purple and grey, and looking at the houses perched on the rue St Antoine, the way they stood forward against the sky, it really got to me. Every time I'm in that neighborhood now, I walk down that street and look at those houses and remember the feeling of being 19 years old and falling in love with Paris. This is the only city that seems to match my moods with its own, and I think this is most true in the Marais.

Photo by Mu Foo

What's the most extravagant meal you've had in Paris, and what was it like?

Le Carré des Feuillants, January 2007. I was taken there for dinner on a whim - no special occasion or anything - and it was the most incredible meal of my life. The sommelier recommended the most amazing white wine from Burgundy, Chassagne Montrachet "Morgeot" 1996, Domaine Ramonet - it had so many different layers to it. I think wine people call that "complexity"? And I had a vegetable I had never heard of, topinambour, a kind of artichoke, layered with foie gras and black truffles... it was the kind of meal where the food is so good it's almost obscene to be experiencing that level of pleasure in public! Now we're planning a road trip to Burgundy to track down Monsieur Ramonet and buy several crates of his wine.

What's the most enjoyable high-brow cultural experience you've had in Paris?

To see Berlioz's "Roméo et Juliette" at the Opéra Bastille for my birthday last year. My boyfriend took me, and he wore a suit and tie, and I wore a pretty dress, and the music was beautiful, and the staging and choreography highly original and even quirky. I felt like a little kid, like when my parents took me to my first Broadway show.

Is there any touristy activity or place that's still fun for a local?

Le Refuge des Fondues in Montmartre. Everyone makes fun of me but I love it. The wine is served in baby bottles, the fondue is plentiful, and the waiters make the girls climb over the tables to get to their seats. It's filled with giggling American college students. You don't walk out of there after a meal so much as ooze. What's not to love?

Photo: lejeuneétranger

Is there a particular place where you like to go and write?

Le Select, on the boulevard Montparnasse. And the best place to go when I'm trying to write but can't is the Musée Carnavalet... that place really gets my creative juices flowing. And entry to the permanent exhibit is free, which is great for us struggling writers.

Lauren Elkin is the author of the novel In Dorsoduro (representation by Diana Finch), and is at work on novel number two, set in present-day Paris. In addition to writing the blog Maîtresse, Lauren's writing has appeared in The Guardian, Gridskipper, the Huffington Post, Nextbook, The Forward, Parisist, the Jewish Telegraphic Agency, and the Paris Voice.

Go further:

Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris

Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London

Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin

Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London

Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul

Local view: Adam Kuban's New York

DELICIOUSLY DUPED AT VOLPETTI

2008-10-16T14:01:00Z

Call us cheesy, but momondo has gone crazy for coagulated milk. We've given our writers the mission of uncovering 'le meilleur fromage' in Paris, 'il migliore formaggio' in Rome, the stinkiest cheeses in New York and the hands-down best cheeses in London, Madrid and Brussels. So grab yourself some bread and wine and join us on this tour of the best cheese shops in Europe.

Rome

Volpetti has been serving the working-class quarter of Testaccio since 1973. Over time, the deli has evolved into a foodie destination, a place to sample and buy some of the best products in Rome.

Volpetti’s employees are well-practiced in catering to the fantasies of food pilgrims. They were eyeing me from the moment I walked in – another foreign girl wearing a gluttonous grin. I was taken by the elbow and shown a starter cheese, an accessible pecorino. “That’s nice,” I said while nibbling on a wedge. “Now what else can I taste?”

My particular guide, after sizing me up, returned with a cheese and a conspiratorial wink. “Try this,” he said, pushing a slice toward me across the cold marble counter. “It’s very good,” I conceded, and he began slicing white fig and pouring some sweet white wine. “Together,” he nodded, and I married the tastes before melting into the floor.

What happened thereafter is a bit of a blur. There were many more cheeses, a number of sausages, vinegars and oils. I was moving around in a euphoric daze, tasting everything, shouting “si!”

I approached the cash register with some hesitation while my purchases were being wrapped. Just how much would all this cost, I wondered, catching sight of a frightening sticker. With the Bagoss di Bagolino priced at 90€ per kilo, I was glad to have asked for a very small slice.

"Your total is 114€, Signora. And our credit card machine is broken.”

After emptying my wallet and also that of my friend, we left completely broke and with thoughts of a conciliatory cheese party back in Paris. Another smiling young woman was entering Volpetti as we were going out. “Good luck,” I told her. “You’ll need it.”

Volpetti Deli Shop, Via Marmorata 47, Rome

LOCAL VIEW: JEROME WEATHERALD'S LONDON

2008-10-08T18:44:00Z

While he's reported from all corners of the globe, BBC journalist Jerome Weatherald has called London home for the past fifteen years. A former south Londoner who did the "unforgivable thing" of crossing the divide, he now splits his time between the family home in north London and the BBC Broadcasting House near Oxford Circus. His work on Radio 4's weekday program Front Row has him regularly brushing up against celebs - this week alone featured Tom Jones, Bette Midler, Damien Hirst, and Robert Downey, Jr. But what he really loves is spending time in London with his wife (the novelist Louise Doughty) and daughters, or catching a few hours on his mountain bike. This is his London.

Where do you go for a bit of inexpensive fun?

When the sun shines, being in London is just the greatest thing. Londoners fed-up with the relentless grey skies come out from nowhere, and the streets are suddenly vibrant and full of people relaxing outside pubs and cafes. But the other great thing you see is the bikes. Cyclists just seem to fill the streets. So when the sun comes out I like to head for the River Thames and ride the towpath.

Wherever you choose is a completely different experience - whether out east among the gleaming towers of Canary Wharf, or in central London on the busy South Bank. The ride from Tower Bridge to Westminster Bridge is a great leisurely ride, passing Tate Modern, the Globe Theatre, the National Theatre, the Festival Hall and the London Eye.

If you're feeling a bit more ambitious, head west to Putney or Hammersmith and take the towpath, but make sure you stop off at the excellent pubs that frequently dot the route.

Photo: Jerome Weatherald

And on the flip side, what do you do on a cold, rainy day?

No question. Wrap up warm, get your muddy boots on and head for Hampstead Heath in north London. Take a walk up to the top of Parliament Hill for the best view in London. Avoid the mad kite-fliers who come out in numbers when the wind's blowing. Stop to admire the view of the whole city spread out before you, then go for a good hard stroll through the woods and end up for a welcoming pint in front of the open fire at the newly-re-opened Bull and Last pub on 168 Highgate Road. (Ooh, that sounds so good I fancy doing it right now).

Parliament Hill in the snow. Photo: Jerome Weatherald

What's the most memorable meal you've had in London?

The Oxo Tower on the South Bank has a dream location, high above the Thames peering down over the city to the north. On the top floor is a modern, beautifully-designed restaurant comprising three different areas - a formal restaurant, a brasserie, and a bar. I don't go for formal much, but on special occasions I have eaten at the brasserie next to the wonderfully tall wall of glass that overlooks the Thames.

The atmosphere is relaxed and very friendly, the food is moderately expensive and exceptionally good, and the views are to die for. You'll need to book ahead, and for me the best time to go is just before dusk while it's still light outside. Then during the course of your meal the daylight fades and London slowly lights up before you to reveal itself at its utterly dazzling best. And if you go in the summer you can dine on the deck outdoors.

View from Oxo Tower. Photo: Bruno Girin

Tell us about a place that's an old favourite, where you've been going for years.

Pubs across the UK, both in the cities and in rural villages, have been closing at an alarming rate in recent years. It breaks my heart because they are so much at the heart of a community, so full of welcome and history. I've spent a lot of my life in a lot of pubs for the sheer pleasure it gives me.

I have two favourites in London. One is my local (a secret I really shouldn't share with you) just round the corner from where I live - the Pineapple on Leverton Street in Kentish Town. Cosy, friendly, tucked away from tourists and offering old-world charm away from the city's frenetic pace. But if it's a pint of London Pride in a small, traditional, wood-panelled pub near work I'm after, my first choice is always the equally tucked-away Star & Garter at the bottom of Poland St, at the edge of Soho. Great atmosphere, well-kept beer, and there really aren't many of these lovely traditional hideaways left in central London.

View from St. Paul's Cathedral. Photo: Aschaf

Is there any touristy activity or place that's still fun for a local?

It's funny that you ask that question, because it's something I think about a lot. Many of the friends I've grown up with have moved out of London and I just don't get it. There is SO much to do and see here, and so much of it is free!

I and my family do love doing the tourist stuff because it's so good. The Great Court at the British Museum with its Norman Foster-designed glass ceiling will take your breath away. A touristy boat ride from Embankment Pier to Greenwich will give you views of London you'd never imagined, no matter how well you know the city.

But my number one favourite tourist activity is to climb to the top of the dome of Christopher Wren's magnificent St. Paul's Cathedral. It'll cost you about 14 Euros each, so it's not cheap, but the climb up takes you first to the stunning Whispering Gallery, then up the stairs to the first outdoor viewpoint and then for the hardy there are a few scary steps that bring you out near the very top of the dome for the utterly breathtaking view of an ever-changing city, where the high-rise buildings of 2008 sit side-by-side with buildings from the 15th and 16th century. And when you get back down you can cross the dazzling Millennium footbridge which takes you directly to another of my favourites, Tate Modern.

You can listen to the BBC program Front Row online, or download their podcasts here.

Go further:

Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris

Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin

Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris

Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London

Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul

Local view: Adam Kuban's New York

LOCAL VIEW: CATHERINE SANDERSON'S PARIS

2008-10-01T08:11:00Z

Photo: Laurent Attias

A few years ago, Catherine Sanderson was already one of Paris' most well-known expatriate bloggers. Her site Petite Anglaise had a loyal following of 4,000 visitors who arrived daily to hear the British secretary's stories about Paris, her French lover "Mr. Frog," and their bilingual daughter "tadpole." Then in April 2006, Sanderson's world turned upside down. Her employer, a posh British accountancy firm, discovered her blog and immediately fired her. Sanderson filed a lawsuit, endured a media storm, and eventually emerged with a double book deal from Penguin. She won the lawsuit, launched the first book to rave reviews, and now spends her days writing from a new apartment in Belleville. This is her Paris...

After 13 years in this city, you're now a veteran. But is there any place that held a certain magic when you first arrived in Paris?

My first apartment in Paris was on rue de la Roquette, midway between the place de la Bastille and Père Lachaise cemetery. It was the closest thing to a park in my neighbourhood, and I often used to take a book and spend a few hours sunning myself on a bench somewhere off the beaten track (i.e. as far from Oscar Wilde or Jim Morrisson as possible). I revisited Père Lachaise in the spring - my first visit in ten years or more - and my five-year-old daughter loved weaving in amongst the gravestones and admiring the sculptures. We plan to make a return visit in a month or two, to see the trees in all their autumn glory.

Photo: Mu Foo

Where do you go when you're feeling a bit indulgent?

When I want to spoil myself I head to the Marais for some retail therapy. Branches of many of my favourite shops (Zadig and Voltaire, Et Vous, Les Petites, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Sandro, Muji, to name but a few...) are located in a really compact area (500m2) bordered by the rue des Rosiers, rue Pavée, rue des Francs Bourgeois, and rue Vielle du Temple, with many of them open on Sundays. For my favourite snack - a falafel with all the trimmings - I head to L'As du Fallafel on rue des Rosiers. And for dessert, a slice of cheesecake from one of the nearby Jewish bakeries.

Photo: Roboppy

What's the most extravagent meal you've had in Paris, and what was it like?

For a boyfriend's birthday I once splashed out on a 'menu degustation' at Blue Elephant thai restaurant, which is something of an institution in Paris. I reserved well in advance and managed to snag one of the prized tables for two by the indoor water feature. The setting was gorgeous, the service impeccable and the tiny taster portions of many of their signature appetisers were exquisite - it's really hard to find properly spiced thai food in Paris. However, our dinner was very nearly ruined when we followed our waitress's instructions and began to work our way clockwise around the tray of main courses, intending to start with the mildest dish and work up to the spiciest by degrees. The first dish was the most eye-watering, tastebud-nuking dish I've ever tasted: our waitress had got her instructions back to front. Sadly, my taste buds were in such a state of shock that I couldn't fully appreciate the rest of the meal.

Photo: Mu Foo

Where do you go on a sunny day in Paris?

If I want to sit and soak up some rays, I usually head for the Parc de Belleville with a book or a picnic. You get a panoramic view of the Paris skyline from the highest point of the park, by rue Piat, and the best lawns for picnicking are just below the belvedère, either side of the shallow waterways where you can dip your feet if you begin to overheat. If I fancy a walk instead, we often stroll along the Canal St Martin. My daughter loves watching the barges negotiate the locks, and there are plenty of cafés with outdoor tables along the way if we want to stop for a bite to eat.

Photo: Mu Foo

What's your favorite local place that you wouldn't necessarily recommend to tourists?

My favourite haunt in Belleville is the Salon de Thé Wen Zhou. It's a tiny, unassuming Chinese snack bar which I must have walked past a hundred times without giving it a second glance until the day when, on the recommendation of a friend, I stepped inside. Wen Zhou has since become a firm favourite in our family - and judging by the number of other regulars we've spotted there, we're not alone. My personal favourite si the pork and herb ravioli and my daughter always goes for the sautéed Shanghai noodles, or 'fat worm noodles', as she calls them.

If you were ever to leave this city, what place would you most miss?

I don't think I'd miss any one particular place. But when I travel elsewhere I miss the reliability of the Paris métro, I realise how wonderfully compact and walkable Paris is compared to so many other capital cities. And I'd miss little things like the smell of baking bread as I pass a boulangerie, the way you can linger over a single coffee in a café without anyone passing comment.

Photo: Graphistolage

Catherine Sanderson is currently finishing her second book, due to be published by Penguin in August 2009. Her first book Petite Anglaise is on sale now (UK/USA), and she continues to write about life in Paris on her blog of the same name.

Go further:

Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London

Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin

Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris

Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London

Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul

Local view: Adam Kuban's New York

VISMET: A GREAT CATCH IN STE-CATHERINE

2008-09-27T15:30:00Z

Before they were covered over in the 1870s, canals used to dominate the Ste-Catherine neighborhood. An old harbor and its accompanying fish market brought nautical color to the area, along with scores of fish restaurants. The harbor has long since disappeared, but Ste-Catherine remains a destination for seafood lovers. The marché aux poissons is still running (albeit only weekly) and the fish restaurants have happily stayed put.

Many of these (Bij den Boer, Jacques, le Pré Salé) are old-school joints with low ceilings and traditional recipes. But a relative newcomer has been making waves with its trendy style and tweaked approach to cooking. I had heard of Vismet before, but finally raced over to reserve when Jordan Greenwood - the man behind the famous Linkebeek cheese shop - told me it was one of his favorites.

We were seated on the terrace with a good view of the waiter gently turning away a procession of un-reserved hopefuls. Happy to have snagged a spot, we tucked into the two croquettes that arrived as an amuse - upscale versions of the Brussels bar staple. My starter came from the regular menu, salade de pinces de crabe fraîche, avocat et agrumes, and my friend chose mussels from the list of nightly specials.

As tasty as my crab salad was (fresh claw meat, homemade mayo on the side, perfect grapefruit), I couldn't keep my hands off those mussels. I'm normally not a fan, but these were moules de bouchot, raised on elevated platforms in Normandy to be small in size, sweet and nutty, without any trace of sand. They were sautéed simply with garlic and some smoky mild peppers. Our house white was chilling in a wine bucket cleverly stuck to the side of the table, leaving us plenty of table surface to jostle for the last shell.

After polishing off the last of our starters, I wandered inside to check out the main dining room. As lovely as the terrace is in summer, Vismet's interior looks right for a cold Belgian night. Warm wood, expensive lighting and an open kitchen create a theatrical setting for the performance of Tom Decroos. The jovial chef earned his stripes at the renowned Sea Grill, but unlike that two-star training ground, Vismet is moderately priced and draws a relaxed and trendy crowd.

When I returned to the table, my friend was still brooding over the loss of so many mussels. He brightened when the main dishes arrived - my grilled swordfish with sauce salmoriglio (lemon, garlic, olive oil and herbs) and his filet de merlu à la palermitaine.

I found myself again making sneak attacks across the table. My plate was perfectly fine, but the Palermo-style hake was simply outstanding - crispy and and flavorful skin atop melting interior flesh. With an eggplant gratin and a side of fries, it was enough to feed four.

After so much food, we passed on dessert but said yes to complimentary bubbly. My crab salad had been a mistake (I'd ordered something else) but I didn't fuss because the error looked (and was) very delicious. The champagne "sorry" was a nevertheless a nice touch and a perfect finish.

The damage: 87€ for two, with wine

Vismet; 23 place Ste-Catherine, 1000 Brussels (Ste-Catherine)

THE NEW WATERBEDS: TWO NEW HOTELS ON THE BASSIN DE LA VILLETTE

2008-09-20T12:06:00Z

Basin de la Villette. Paris Tourist Office/Marc Verhille

The northeastern side of Paris is unknown to most visitors. Far from the center and not packed with 'must-see' monuments, this area is doesn’t make it onto many agendas. That’s a shame, because the 19th arrondissement is filled with lovely things. The wild and hilly Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is here, along with the Parc de la Villette and its many concert venues, film festivals, and exhibitions. But my favorite place to spend time is along the water.

As the Canal St. Martin travels north from trendy area around Chez Prune, it widens into the Bassin de la Villette. The area around the Bassin has transformed dramatically in recent years and now hosts a pair of charming movie theaters, the northern satellite of Paris Plages, and a slew of cafés and restaurants.

St. Christopher’s Inn

It also has beds – many beds. In recent months, two new options for accommodation have sprung up along the water. The first to arrive was St. Christopher’s Inn, the “most modern backpackers’ hostel in Paris.”

This brand-spanking new facility on 159 rue de Crimée makes backpacking easy by offering free wifi and organizing pub crawls and bike rental.

Most importantly (although this isn’t written in their brochure), the location affords access to Bar Ourcq, one of the coolest places in town. The area in front of Bar Ourcq is on warm evenings filled with hundreds of young people who gather to picnic and play pétanque.

It’s exactly the kind of crowd that most young travelers are hoping to find, and they’re sitting just outside the hostel doors waiting to be chatted up. Prices, as you’d expect, are low at the hostel. They vary according to the day, but a bed in a 10-person dormitory generally runs about 30€ per night, and a private room with double bed & bath is 45€ per person (90€ total).

Holiday Inn Express

Those looking for something less youthful than a hostel need only walk around to the back of the building where a new Holiday Inn Express has just opened on 68 Quai de la Seine. I have great reservations in writing about a chain hotel (as does my Editor Louise), but this honestly isn’t a bad option for Paris. Here’s why:

The view from these rooms is incredible. Inside the rooms are (boring) corporate chic with flat screens and free wifi, but open the curtains and you’re gazing out over houseboats and old men playing pétanque. At ground floor, the hotel terrace is right on the water and not a bad place to take your morning coffee. Rooms run 120-160€ per night with breakfast included.

For those with reservations about staying “so far away,” Métro line 7 from Crimée is quick shot into the center city with stops at many popular tourist destinations. Line 5 from Laumière travels to Republique and Bastille, while line 2 from Jaurès will take you to Père Lachaise, Montmartre, and the Arc de Triomphe. Excellent Métro access will enable you to cross those monuments off your list, but at the end of the day you’ll be happy to return to your waterbed in this great and still undiscovered neighborhood.

STARK SNARK AT THE WHITE HOTEL

2008-09-15T12:27:00Z

On paper (or the computer screen) The White Hotel seems like a dream stay. It's on the avenue Louise with posh shopping, arty drinking, and good eating just a stroll away. It brings in recognizable design talent to color up its naked white rooms. Best of all, it's ridiculously cheap - 75€ per night. High expectations, however, can lead to a serious let-down.

When I arrived at the White Hotel, I smiled at seeing a pair of motorcycles available for daily rental at 18€. Things continued in a good vein as I checked out the lounge with its shelves of design books and deep booths with surf-ready laptops.

When I turned the key in my room, however, I was shocked to see a stark white room with no design elements at all. Wasn't that supposed to be the point?

Later on, when I descended to hand over the supplementary funds for wifi service, I asked the manager whether all rooms were like mine. "Some rooms have design, some do not," she barked. "You have to request a room with design (like the one below)." She went on to explain that not all of the rooms were finished, despite being open for more than two years. "Come back after our next 'Plastic the White Hotel' event," she told me. "More rooms will be done then."

A finished room at the White Hotel

In the meantime, a booking at the hotel is likely to land you a very white and undesigned room. My IKEA showroom surroundings included paper-thin walls and a shower that bubbled loudly whenever the neighbor flushed his toilet. This was pushing it, even for the low-low price of 75€.

A bright spot arrived the next morning in the form of a very sweet breakfast for no additional charge. The do-it-yourself espresso machine let me drink far more than my body needed, and the range of savory and sweet treats (including homemade cookies) was more impressive than I'd been expecting.

The bottom line: this will likely be, in the year 2010, a fully-designed design hotel. But in 2008, the White Hotel is more like a budget option with a good breakfast and a convenient location. Bring your ear plugs and low expectations.

The White Hotel; 2 avenue Louise, 1000 Brussels

THE CHEESE GEEKS OF LINKEBEEK

2008-09-14T06:35:00Z

Call us cheesy, but momondo has gone crazy for coagulated milk. We've given our writers the mission of uncovering 'le meilleur fromage' in Paris, 'il migliore formaggio' in Rome, the stinkiest cheeses in New York and the hands-down best cheeses in London, Madrid and Brussels. So grab yourself some bread and wine and join us on this tour of the best cheese shops in Europe.

Brussels

After four years of living in Paris, I probably qualify as something of a cheese snob. But because French fromagers rarely stock foreign cheese, I'm also pretty ignorant to the traditions of other countries. During a recent jaunt to Brussels, I asked a food-obsessed local friend where I could learn more about Belgian cheese. He told me there was only one game in town: the Crèmerie de Linkebeek.

The Crèmerie de Linkebeek has been operating since 1902, making it the oldest cheese shop in Brussels. The epitome of old-school, the name Linkebeek comes from the nearby village where the original owners kept their cows. Today, after more than 100 years in business, the shop still has a very retro feel. Its future, however, lies in the hands of a young upstart couple.

Jordan and Laurence Greenwood took the reins four years ago, revitalizing the shop and turning it into a foodie destination. "We're trying to honor the shop's history while also putting our own personal stamp on the place," Jordan told me. You can buy raw milk in glass bottles here, just like in the old days, but you can now also pick up a bottle of wine and some fig balsamic condiment.

As for their core business, Jordan and Laurence have sought out hard-to-find cheeses from small producers and have built the most impressive collection of Belgian cheeses to be found anywhere. Jordan explained that the main difference between the two traditions is that the French wash their rinds with with wine during the maturing process, and the Belgians use beer. That's because cheese production has traditionally taken place in monasteries – the same Abbeys that have been producing famed Belgian brew for centuries. In modern times, some beer companies like Chimay even make their own branded cheese. Jordan was explaining this all while illustrating with sample after sampe. I was in heaven.

Next up, I tasted some of the best-selling cheeses at Linkebeek - the Vieux Bruges, a hard cheese that seems the perfect partner for beer, and the Hervlon “extra piquant” double crème, a super stinky cheese that’s widely exported. Jordan said that the shop also carries a few cheeses that are on the verge of disappearing. Fromage de Bruxelles - a more pungent and salty version of fromage blanc - was devoured for breakfast by past generations of city-dwellers. Producers are dying off, so the older residents of Ste-Catherine flock to Linkebeek to get their fix while they still can.

In helping his customers to choose the perfect cheese, Jordan switches seamlessly between French, Dutch and English. The English bears a slight Brooklyn accent because a portion of his childhood was spent in New York. The mixed heritage gives him a linguistic edge and, more importantly, his grandma Shirley's recipe for New York style cheesecake.

Some of his personal favorites at Linkebeek are the Fleuron de Bruges and the Lebailli - a nutty cow’s milk cheese that’s washed in wine. He also loves (and I agree) the Testun al Barolo. An Italian sheep's milk cheese that’s been rolled in the marc of Barolo wine – it was smooth and delicious, almost dessert-like. He's also a big fan of the herbed ham and other charcuterie that's available for takeaway.

For those (like hotel-bound travel writers) who can't do takeaway, the Crèmerie de Linkebeek operates a lunch table on the adjascent terrace. Without worrying about where to store the leftovers, the cheese-curious can order up a sample plate or a light tartine of fromage blanc, spring onion, and radish. I kept company on the sun-dappled terrace with a towering slice of of that New York style cheesecake. Made by Laurence using grandma Shirley's recipe, it was the best that I've ever had.

Crèmerie Linkebeek; rue du vieux marche aux grains, 1000 Brussels (Ste-Catherine)