La Cigalle Photo: Mu Foo
In the heart of the Pigalle sex district, just down the street from the storied Moulin Rouge, La Cigale is one of my favorite places to see live music in Paris. After the show I get a drink at 'the ant' - La Fourmi - or a late diner at the restaurant Cul de Poule, which means something like Chicken bum.
An out-of-the-way corner of the 20th arrondissement has recently become the center of hipster Paris. It all started with La Fleche d'Or - a locally-treasured concert hall that teeters above abandoned tracks. Formerly a train station, this cavernous space has for years been drawing crowds with it's free nightly shows. That's right, free concerts - with two to three bands playing every night, often followed by a DJ. The talent ranges from local and "interesting" to internationally-known and brilliant. Up-and-coming artists often play their first Paris gig here before returning to bigger shows at la Maroquinerie and other venues.
Photo: la Flèche d'Or
The spacious outdoor terrasse provides a place to talk with friends without having to shout. In the summer, people often spend more time here than inside watching the bands. If you didn't have time to eat beforehand, an adjoining restaurant puts out decent (not great) food. Drink prices are high here - a small beer will run you €6, and a watery cocktail is €8. But considering the free entry, it's still a relatively cheap night out.
I've seen countless good shows here (and quite a few bad ones, too), but my favorite took place last summer when Zach Condon (of the band Beirut) came to play with his idols, the Macedonian marching band Kocani Orkestar. The video gives an idea of the kind of joy that can erupt in this place.
The only downside of la Flèche d'Or is the post-concert journey home. But visitors can avoid that by staying in the hip new hotel Mama Shelter across the street.
LA FLECHE D'OR; 102 bis rue Bagnolet, 75020 Paris
Go further: Find out where in Prague Jason goes when he in mood for Czech art-rock and ZZ Top covers here and were in Stockholm Francis goes crazy at concerts with Swedish pop sensation Robyn here.
Music + Food = Paris, according to our local writer Meg Zimbeck. Her edible and audible exploits are described on Mu Foo, a new blog about seeking out the pleasures of Paris. In addition to sharing her experiences with Momondo, she contributes to the Wall Street Journal, BlackBook, and other publications.
Momondo.com is a travel site searching for flights, hotels and car rentals, and providing travel guides written by the users.
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