There seems to be no other response to the "where should I stay?" question than the Trastevere neighborhood. This area (which translates as "beyond the Tiber") is the answer on everybody's lips - including those of our regular Rome correspondent."But just how far beyond is it?" I wanted to know. For however much I wanted to escape from the tourist horde, I sure didn't want to spend hours every day on the subway.
Bridge crossing the Tiber river. All photos by Meg Zimbeck
I needn't have worried. Trastevere is indeed across the river and away from the tourist center of Rome, but I was able to walk that distance in twenty minutes or less. And the pleasure of crossing the Tiber every day more than compensated for those lost calories. What's more, that distance was enough to keep most other visitors away, leaving a relatively quiet quarter during the daytime with plenty of old-world atmosphere.
At night the quarter comes alive and its bars spring into action. Trastevere draws a younger 20- and 30-something crowd, and there are quite a few gay bars in the area. It also draws the gastronomically-minded with a number of critically acclaimed tratorrias. The authentic hole-in-the-wall restaurants are today fewer (or else very well-hidden), than ten years ago before many of the local Trasteverini were pushed out by spiraling prices. As our Rome correspondent noted in her tribute to the Trastevere, the area's recent gentrification (along with its Jewish history) have drawn comparisons to the Marais in Paris and to SoHo in New York. But it continues to be charming and much more relaxed than many other Rome neighborhoods. And we found some great food and fun in this still-popolare quarter.
Trattoria Da Lucia in Trastevere.
A favorite trattoria was Da Lucia - set back on a tiny crumbling street but always buzzing with activity. The outdoor terrace is where you want to be on a warm summer evening. On the plate you'll find classic dishes like braised rabbit or spaghetti alla vongole (with clams), paired with a good selection of wine. Don't be fooled by the casual appearance - you'll definitely need a reservation. Checco er Carettiere on 7, Via Benedetta is another good choice, with just a bit more polish (and more tourists) than Da Lucia.
Trattoria Da Lucia in Trastevere.
Just north of Trastevere is the Janiculum hill (Gianicolo for the locals), topped with a tranquil tree-filled park. Our bed & breakfast, the Alle Mantellatte, was technically in Janiculum, but we could walk to Trastevere nightlife in less than five minutes. Sleeping on the quiet side of the border meant that we could wake up to bird song and a stunning view each morning. We could also wake up to a breakfast free from the usual obligation to dine with the other guests. A self-service kitchen allowed us to grab coffee and escape back to the simple bedroom, without having to participate in the second 'b' of B&B. Call me a misanthrope, but I much prefer to take my coffee in bed, surrounded by guidebooks and my dreams for the coming day.
One of our days "beyond the river" began with a stroll in the lovely Orto Botanico. Near the border between the two 'hoods, this botanic garden dates back to the 11th
century when Benedictine monks grew medicinal plants and herbs here. In modern times, it's a tree-lined pathway wandering up the Janiculum hill... or so our map led us to believe. After winding slowly through the plant- and pool-filled garden we reached a closed iron gate.
Cédric makes his escape.
No matter - after a quick (and illegal) escape over the top of the gate, we were treated to the most amazing view over the city.
View from the top of Janiculum hill.
From this distance, central Rome almost looked peaceful. But we knew better, and so we were happy to begin and end and end our touring days in this tranquil place just beyond the Tiber.