In the heart of the Pigalle sex district, just down the street from the storied Moulin Rouge, La Cigale is one of my favorite places to see live music in Paris.
Photo: Andreas Praefcke
Founded in 1887 and protected as a historical monument, it began life
as a cabaret featuring stars like Maurice Chevalier. Later on, in the
years followoing the first world war, La Cigale on 120 Boulevard de Rochechouart played host to
vaudeville theater and futuristic parties by Jean Cocteau. From the
1940s on, it fell into a bit of disrepair, becoming a cinema that specialized in Kung Fu and later X-rated films.
The venue got a new lease on life in 1987 when it was taken over and redecorated by rising designer Philippe Starck. La Cigale returned to its roots and once again started pulling in the best singer/songwriters of the day. The plush red seating and curvaceous balconies provide a lovely setting for quiet shows. I saw Vincent Delerm here and loved curling up in my velvet chair while trying to translate his lyrics.
Photo: Mu Foo
Those same chairs are cast aside when the big bands come to town. La Cigale has a loud side, too, and books (along with la Maroquinerie) the best indie pop and rock shows in Paris. The main floor bounces like a trampoline during rowdy shows. As you can see from this video I made at last night's Vampire Weekend concert, you can't help but jump along.
After the Show
When I want a post-concert bottle or a bite, I head west half a block to La Fourmi. This cavernous bar, which has a fabulous wine bottle chandelier, is inexpensive good fun. They serve basic sandwiches and pasta until around 11pm.
Cul de Poule Photo: Mu Foo
Another alternative is to head south down the rue des Martyrs to Cul de Poule. This funky new hot spot serves great wine and simple food using top-shelf ingredients. Their kitchen stays open until 11pm, but they serve stellar charcuterie and cheese upon request until 1am. Play it safe and call ahead at +33 (0)1 53 16 13 07.
Advance Warning - If you're planning to be in Paris, you may want to reserve in advance for the following concerts at La Cigale:
November 13 - Franz Ferdinand
November 16 - Hot Chip
November 26 - Stereolab
April 08 - Kim Wilde
April 09 - Sébastien Schuller
Insider Tip - when shows are sold out there's almost always somebody standing outside selling extra tickets at face value. Just show up and keep your ears open - you can usually score a ticket. Increase your chances by carrying a sign that reads cherche billet.
Go further: Read here at which music venues in Stockholm Francis goes dancing and screaming and here to find out where in Prague Jason goes for inexpensive beer and Czech art-rock.