An out-of-the-way corner of the 20th arrondissement has recently become the center of hipster Paris. It all started with La Fleche d'Or - a locally-treasured concert hall that teeters above abandoned tracks. Formerly a train station, this cavernous space on 102 bis rue Bagnolet has for years been drawing crowds with it's free nightly shows. That's right, free concerts - with two to three bands playing every night, often followed by a DJ. The talent ranges from local and "interesting" to internationally-known and brilliant. Up-and-coming artists often play their first Paris gig here before returning to bigger shows at la Maroquinerie and other venues. 
Photo: la Flèche d'Or
The spacious outdoor terrasse provides a place to talk with friends without having to shout. In the summer, people often spend more time here than inside watching the bands. If you didn't have time to eat beforehand, an adjoining restaurant puts out decent (not great) food. Drink prices are high here - a small beer will run you €6, and a watery cocktail is €8. But considering the free entry, it's still a relatively cheap night out. 
Photo: la Flèche d'Or
I've seen countless good shows here (and quite a few bad ones, too), but my favorite took place last summer when Zach Condon (of the band Beirut) came to play with his idols, the Macedonian marching band Kocani Orkestar. The video below gives an idea of the kind of joy that can erupt in this place.
The only downside of la Flèche d'Or is the post-concert journey home. But visitors can avoid that by staying in the hip new hotel across the street. Mama Shelter 
Photo: Francis Amiand Open only a few months now, Mama Shelter is already a hotspot thanks to interior design by Philippe Starck, a funky bar and restaurant, and prices lower than you'd ever expect to find in Paris. Rooms start at just €79 (gasp!), and feature amenities like iMacs and Star Wars-themed bedside lamps. 
Photo: Francis Amiand In addition to its geek-chic clientele, Mama Shelter is also trying to seduce music fans. Understanding the allure of the neighboring rock club, the hotel has worked out a deal to let their guests jump to the front of the line at the Flèche d'Or. And because the queue can sometimes snake around the block, that little perk is nothing to sneeze at. 
Photo: Mu Foo For music-loving travelers on a budget, Mama Shelter and La Flèche d'Or are an unbeatable combination. The hotel is one of the cheapest (and coolest) in the city, and you can't beat the price of admission at the club. Although it may be far from the center, there's plenty to love about about this quarter. Père Lachaise cemetary is around the corner, and the sweet quarter of Saint Blaise with its winding cobblestone streets is just a short wander away. MAMA SHELTER; 109 rue Bagnolet, 75020. Go further: Find out where in Prague Jason goes when he in mood for Czech art-rock and ZZ Top covers here and were in Stockholm Francis goes crazy at concerts with Swedish pop sensation Robyn here.
 Lauren Elkin, aka "Maîtresse" is the local go-to girl for learning about the literary side of Paris. Originally from New York, she has lived in Paris on and off since 1999. While working on a PhD in English literature at the Université
de Paris VII, she's also managed to finish a first novel. And in her free time, she writes a blog about her bookish life in the City of Light. This is her Paris.
Photo by unsureshot
After almost a decade, you're something of a Paris veteran. But is there a place that, when you first arrived in Paris, held a certain magic for you? There are so many places... the whole city has this amazing aura to it, every day I walk around and am thankful that I live here. But probably the Marais is the heart of my devotion to this place. I remember one night in the winter months of 1999, I was walking south on the rue de Turenne towards the rue St Antoine around 5 pm or so, but the sun was already setting and the world was purple and grey, and looking at the houses perched on the rue St Antoine, the way they stood forward against the sky, it really got to me. Every time I'm in that neighborhood now, I walk down that street and look at those houses and remember the feeling of being 19 years old and falling in love with Paris. This is the only city that seems to match my moods with its own, and I think this is most true in the Marais. 
Photo by Mu Foo
What's the most extravagant meal you've had in Paris, and what was it like? Le Carré des Feuillants, January 2007. I was taken there for dinner on a whim - no special occasion or anything - and it was the most incredible meal of my life. The sommelier recommended the most amazing white wine from Burgundy, Chassagne Montrachet "Morgeot" 1996, Domaine Ramonet - it had so many different layers to it. I think wine people call that "complexity"? And I had a vegetable I had never heard of, topinambour, a kind of artichoke, layered with foie gras and black truffles... it was the kind of meal where the food is so good it's almost obscene to be experiencing that level of pleasure in public! Now we're planning a road trip to Burgundy to track down Monsieur Ramonet and buy several crates of his wine. What's the most enjoyable high-brow cultural experience you've had in Paris?
To see Berlioz's "Roméo et Juliette" at the Opéra Bastille for my birthday last year. My boyfriend took me, and he wore a suit and tie, and I wore a pretty dress, and the music was beautiful, and the staging and choreography highly original and even quirky. I felt like a little kid, like when my parents took me to my first Broadway show. 
Is there any touristy activity or place that's still fun for a local? Le Refuge des Fondues in Montmartre. Everyone makes fun of me but I love it. The wine is served in baby bottles, the fondue is plentiful, and the waiters make the girls climb over the tables to get to their seats. It's filled with giggling American college students. You don't walk out of there after a meal so much as ooze. What's not to love?
Photo: lejeuneétranger Is there a particular place where you like to go and write?
Le Select, on the boulevard Montparnasse. And the best place to go when I'm trying to write but can't is the Musée Carnavalet... that place really gets my creative juices flowing. And entry to the permanent exhibit is free, which is great for us struggling writers. 
Lauren Elkin is the author of the novel
In Dorsoduro (representation by Diana Finch),
and is at work on novel number two, set in present-day Paris. In addition to writing the blog Maîtresse, Lauren's writing has appeared in The Guardian, Gridskipper,
the Huffington Post, Nextbook, The Forward, Parisist, the Jewish
Telegraphic Agency, and the Paris Voice. Go further: Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul Local view: Adam Kuban's New York
Call us cheesy, but momondo has gone crazy for coagulated milk. We've given our writers the mission of uncovering 'le meilleur fromage' in Paris, 'il migliore formaggio' in Rome, the stinkiest cheeses in New York and the hands-down best cheeses in London, Madrid and Brussels. So grab yourself some bread and wine and join us on this tour of the best cheese shops in Europe. Rome 
Volpetti has been serving the working-class quarter of Testaccio since 1973. Over time, the deli has evolved into a foodie destination, a place to sample and buy some of the best products in Rome.
Volpetti’s employees are well-practiced in catering to the fantasies of food pilgrims. They were eyeing me from the moment I walked in – another foreign girl wearing a gluttonous grin. I was taken by the elbow and shown a starter cheese, an accessible pecorino. “That’s nice,” I said while nibbling on a wedge. “Now what else can I taste?” 
My particular guide, after sizing me up, returned with a cheese and a conspiratorial wink. “Try this,” he said, pushing a slice toward me across the cold marble counter. “It’s very good,” I conceded, and he began slicing white fig and pouring some sweet white wine. “Together,” he nodded, and I married the tastes before melting into the floor. What happened thereafter is a bit of a blur. There were many more cheeses, a number of sausages, vinegars and oils. I was moving around in a euphoric daze, tasting everything, shouting “si!” 
I approached the cash register with some hesitation while my purchases were being wrapped. Just how much would all this cost, I wondered, catching sight of a frightening sticker. With the Bagoss di Bagolino priced at 90€ per kilo, I was glad to have asked for a very small slice. "Your total is 114€, Signora. And our credit card machine is broken.” After emptying my wallet and also that of my friend, we left completely broke and with thoughts of a conciliatory cheese party back in Paris. Another smiling young woman was entering Volpetti as we were going out. “Good luck,” I told her. “You’ll need it.” Volpetti Deli Shop, Via Marmorata 47, Rome
 While he's reported from all corners of the globe, BBC journalist Jerome Weatherald has called London home for the past fifteen years. A former south Londoner who did the "unforgivable thing" of crossing the divide, he now splits his time between the family home in north London and the BBC Broadcasting House near Oxford Circus. His work on Radio 4's weekday program Front Row has him regularly brushing up against celebs - this week alone featured Tom Jones, Bette Midler, Damien Hirst, and Robert Downey, Jr. But what he really loves is spending time in London with his wife (the novelist Louise Doughty) and daughters, or catching a few hours on his mountain bike. This is his London. Where do you go for a bit of inexpensive fun? When the sun shines, being in London is just the greatest thing. Londoners fed-up with the relentless grey skies come out from nowhere, and the streets are suddenly vibrant and full of people relaxing outside pubs and cafes. But the other great thing you see is the bikes. Cyclists just seem to fill the streets. So when the sun comes out I like to head for the River Thames and ride the towpath. Wherever you choose is a completely different experience - whether out east among the gleaming towers of Canary Wharf, or in central London on the busy South Bank. The ride from Tower Bridge to Westminster Bridge is a great leisurely ride, passing Tate Modern, the Globe Theatre, the National Theatre, the Festival Hall and the London Eye. If you're feeling a bit more ambitious, head west to Putney or Hammersmith and take the towpath, but make sure you stop off at the excellent pubs that frequently dot the route. 
Photo: Jerome Weatherald
And on the flip side, what do you do on a cold, rainy day? No question. Wrap up warm, get your muddy boots on and head for Hampstead Heath in north London. Take a walk up to the top of Parliament Hill for the best view in London. Avoid the mad kite-fliers
who come out in numbers when the wind's blowing. Stop to admire the
view of the whole city spread out before you, then go for a good hard
stroll through the woods and end up for a welcoming pint in front of
the open fire at the newly-re-opened Bull and Last pub on 168 Highgate Road. (Ooh, that sounds so good I fancy doing it right now). 
Parliament Hill in the snow. Photo: Jerome Weatherald
What's the most memorable meal you've had in London? The Oxo Tower on the South Bank has a dream location, high above the Thames peering down over the city to the north. On the top floor is a modern, beautifully-designed restaurant comprising three different areas - a formal restaurant, a brasserie, and a bar. I don't go for formal much, but on special occasions I have eaten at the brasserie next to the wonderfully tall wall of glass that overlooks the Thames. The atmosphere is relaxed and very friendly, the food is moderately expensive and exceptionally good, and the views are to die for. You'll need to book ahead, and for me the best time to go is just before dusk while it's still light outside. Then during the course of your meal the daylight fades and London slowly lights up before you to reveal itself at its utterly dazzling best. And if you go in the summer you can dine on the deck outdoors. 
View from Oxo Tower. Photo: Bruno Girin
Tell us about a place that's an old favourite, where you've been going for years. Pubs across the UK, both in the cities and in rural villages, have been closing at an alarming rate in recent years. It breaks my heart because they are so much at the heart of a community, so full of welcome and history. I've spent a lot of my life in a lot of pubs for the sheer pleasure it gives me. I have two favourites in London. One is my local (a secret I really shouldn't share with you) just round the corner from where I live - the Pineapple on Leverton Street in Kentish Town. Cosy, friendly, tucked away from tourists and offering old-world charm away from the city's frenetic pace. But if it's a pint of London Pride in a small, traditional, wood-panelled pub near work I'm after, my first choice is always the equally tucked-away Star & Garter at the bottom of Poland St, at the edge of Soho. Great atmosphere, well-kept beer, and there really aren't many of these lovely traditional hideaways left in central London. 
View from St. Paul's Cathedral. Photo: Aschaf
Is there any touristy activity or place that's still fun for a local? It's funny that you ask that question, because it's something I think about a lot. Many of the friends I've grown up with have moved out of London and I just don't get it. There is SO much to do and see here, and so much of it is free! I and my family do love doing the tourist stuff because it's so good. The Great Court at the British Museum with its Norman Foster-designed glass ceiling will take your breath away. A touristy boat ride from Embankment Pier to Greenwich will give you views of London you'd never imagined, no matter how well you know the city. But my number one favourite tourist activity is to climb to the top of the dome of Christopher Wren's magnificent St. Paul's Cathedral. It'll cost you about 14 Euros each, so it's not cheap, but the climb up takes you first to the stunning Whispering Gallery, then up the stairs to the first outdoor viewpoint and then for the hardy there are a few scary steps that bring you out near the very top of the dome for the utterly breathtaking view of an ever-changing city, where the high-rise buildings of 2008 sit side-by-side with buildings from the 15th and 16th century. And when you get back down you can cross the dazzling Millennium footbridge which takes you directly to another of my favourites, Tate Modern. You can listen to the BBC program Front Row online, or download their podcasts here. Go further: Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul Local view: Adam Kuban's New York
Photo: Laurent Attias
A few years ago, Catherine Sanderson was already one of Paris' most well-known expatriate bloggers. Her site Petite Anglaise had a loyal following of 4,000 visitors who arrived daily to hear the British secretary's stories about Paris, her French lover "Mr. Frog," and their bilingual daughter "tadpole." Then in April 2006, Sanderson's world turned upside down. Her employer, a posh British accountancy firm, discovered her blog and immediately fired her. Sanderson filed a lawsuit, endured a media storm, and eventually emerged with a double book deal from Penguin. She won the lawsuit, launched the first book to rave reviews, and now spends her days writing from a new apartment in Belleville. This is her Paris... After 13 years in this city, you're now a veteran. But is there any place that held a certain magic when you first arrived in Paris? My first apartment in Paris was on rue de la Roquette, midway between the place de la Bastille and Père Lachaise cemetery. It was the closest thing to a park in my neighbourhood, and I often used to take a book and spend a few hours sunning myself on a bench somewhere off the beaten track (i.e. as far from Oscar Wilde or Jim Morrisson as possible). I revisited Père Lachaise in the spring - my first visit in ten years or more - and my five-year-old daughter loved weaving in amongst the gravestones and admiring the sculptures. We plan to make a return visit in a month or two, to see the trees in all their autumn glory. 
Photo: Mu Foo Where do you go when you're feeling a bit indulgent? When I want to spoil myself I head to the Marais for some retail therapy. Branches of many of my favourite shops (Zadig and Voltaire, Et Vous, Les Petites, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Sandro, Muji, to name but a few...) are located in a really compact area (500m2) bordered by the rue des Rosiers, rue Pavée, rue des Francs Bourgeois, and rue Vielle du Temple, with many of them open on Sundays. For my favourite snack - a falafel with all the trimmings - I head to L'As du Fallafel on rue des Rosiers. And for dessert, a slice of cheesecake from one of the nearby Jewish bakeries. 
Photo: Roboppy
What's the most extravagent meal you've had in Paris, and what was it like? For a boyfriend's birthday I once splashed out on a 'menu degustation' at Blue Elephant thai restaurant, which is something of an institution in Paris. I reserved well in advance and managed to snag one of the prized tables for two by the indoor water feature. The setting was gorgeous, the service impeccable and the tiny taster portions of many of their signature appetisers were exquisite - it's really hard to find properly spiced thai food in Paris. However, our dinner was very nearly ruined when we followed our waitress's instructions and began to work our way clockwise around the tray of main courses, intending to start with the mildest dish and work up to the spiciest by degrees. The first dish was the most eye-watering, tastebud-nuking dish I've ever tasted: our waitress had got her instructions back to front. Sadly, my taste buds were in such a state of shock that I couldn't fully appreciate the rest of the meal. 
Photo: Mu Foo
Where do you go on a sunny day in Paris? If I want to sit and soak up some rays, I usually head for the Parc de Belleville with a book or a picnic. You get a panoramic view of the Paris skyline from the highest point of the park, by rue Piat, and the best lawns for picnicking are just below the belvedère, either side of the shallow waterways where you can dip your feet if you begin to overheat. If I fancy a walk instead, we often stroll along the Canal St Martin. My daughter loves watching the barges negotiate the locks, and there are plenty of cafés with outdoor tables along the way if we want to stop for a bite to eat. 
Photo: Mu Foo
What's your favorite local place that you wouldn't necessarily recommend to tourists? My favourite haunt in Belleville is the Salon de Thé Wen Zhou. It's a tiny, unassuming Chinese snack bar which I must have walked past a hundred times without giving it a second glance until the day when, on the recommendation of a friend, I stepped inside. Wen Zhou has since become a firm favourite in our family - and judging by the number of other regulars we've spotted there, we're not alone. My personal favourite si the pork and herb ravioli and my daughter always goes for the sautéed Shanghai noodles, or 'fat worm noodles', as she calls them. If you were ever to leave this city, what place would you most miss? I
don't think I'd miss any one particular place. But when I travel
elsewhere I miss the reliability of the Paris métro, I realise how
wonderfully compact and walkable Paris is compared to so many other
capital cities. And I'd miss little things like the smell of baking
bread as I pass a boulangerie, the way you can linger over a single
coffee in a café without anyone passing comment. 
Photo: Graphistolage
Catherine Sanderson is currently finishing her second book, due to be published by Penguin in August 2009. Her first book Petite Anglaise is on sale now (UK/USA), and she continues to write about life in Paris on her blog of the same name. Go further: Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul Local view: Adam Kuban's New York
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