As an American, I am periodically subject to intense cheeseburger cravings. While I thoroughly appreciate the local cuisine, my soul sometimes just needs the food of my youth. In the past, whenever this happened, I ran to my old standby Joe Allen. I didn't like the corporate ambiance or the fact that it was filled with tourists, but I survived by ignoring everything but the bacon cheeseburger between my hands.
Those blinders are no longer necessary. I am happy (and also a bit baffled) to report that Paris has been gripped by Burger Mania. My national sandwich has ventured out from the sports bars and can now be found at some of the city's trendiest spots.
It's not surprising that French chefs are adding their own personal (and often posh) touches to distinguish their burgers from the rest. Black Calvados, where my concierge friend Adrian sends his upscale clientele, serves a wagyu burger with black soy sauce. Dorie Greenspan raves about the version at Café Salle Pleyel, which mixes porcini mushrooms in the meat and serves homemade pickles on the side. Louise tells me that the "Love Burger" at Café Etienne Marcel is shaped like a fashionable little heart. And the New York Times just published an article highlighting Le Burger at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon - "two burgers topped with slabs of foie gras of almost equal size."
Photo of Le Burger by Biskuit
My burger of preference in this brave new world is decidedly less luxe. I suppose I'm a traditionalist in this matter. Either that, or I can't afford to spend 40€ on a burger. In any case, I've decided that Express Bar is where I want to get my fix. Gary Willimont, a British chef, runs this modest little joint near Voltaire. As someone who has worked alongside celebrities Gordon Ramsey and Jamie Oliver, he seems reluctant to be typecast as the Burger Guy. "Wouldn't you really rather try the fish?" he suggests, pointing out a fresh rascasse with julienned vegetables. But I have come here for one reason, and for one reason alone.
L'Express Burger, the object of my desire, is served on fluffy pillows of ciabatta that Gary has baked himself. The cheese topping might be an oozy mozzerella or a thick slice of Cantal. The fries are perfect - crisp and golden on the outside with an airy interior, and served with a side (no begging!) of ketchup.
Photo of L'Express Burger by Le Blagueur
For the moment, then, my meat-loving heart belongs to Gary at Express Bar. But with competitors popping up all over town, it will be hard to remain completely loyal. I can only hope that the famous French tolerence of infidelity applies to burger love as well.
Express Bar, 31 rue Saint Maur, 75011
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, 5 rue Montalembert, 75007
Café Etienne Marcel, 52 rue Etienne-Marcel, 75002
Café Salle Pleyel, 252 rue Fbg St Honoré, 75008
Black Calvados, 40 avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, 75008
Joe Allen, 30 rue Pierre Lescot, 75001
Go further: Fancy burgers? Read about Elini's favourite Burger Joint hidden away in New York.