At this time of year, locals talk about only one subject – their upcoming holiday plans. That’s because Parisians, if they can afford to, make a mass exodus from the city, turning the capital over to tourists from mid-July until September. With so many shops and restaurants closed, the town can feel a bit deserted. But I appreciate these quiet weeks, and I absolutely love to take advantage of summer festivals during this time.
Cinéma en plein air de la Villette
Paris Tourist Office/Amélie Dupont
My favorite one has just kicked off – the Cinéma en plein air de la Villette. This annual open-air film fest is held on a grassy lawn in the Parc de la Villette. Movies from all over the world are screened on a giant inflatable screen on every night except Monday between July 15 and August 17.
Because I live across the street, it’s easy for me to haul a blanket, a cold bottle of wine, and a yummy picnic spread. But those who don’t want to cross town with an armful can rent folding chairs, buy kebabs from street vendors, and get an over-priced drink on-site. In past years admission to the festival was free, but it’s an affordable 2€ in 2008.
As for the films, I’m especially looking forward to 'Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?' on July 31 and 'Volver', part of a whole night of Pedro Almodóvar on August 1. The full program can be downloaded here.
Festival Paris Quartier d'été
Paris Tourist Office/Amélie Dupont
Festival Paris Quartier d’Eté is an annual assemblage of dance, theater, and music events in neighborhoods around the city. Highlights this year include a dance tribute to Maurice Béjart in the Palais Royal, Vieux Farka Touré performing Malian blues in the Jardin du Luxembourg, and interactive theater at the Point Ephémère from British troupe Rotozaza.
Paris Plages
Paris Tourist Office/Amélie Dupont
And who could forget about Paris Plages? As David told you, the beach is coming back to Paris between July 21 and August 21. In 2008, the festival will be held at three different sites - on the voie Georges Pompidou (4th arrondissement), along the Bassin de la Villette (19th arrondissement) and on the quai de la Gare, near the national library (13th arrondissement).
Locals and visitors alike flock to this urban beach party to take salsa dancing lessons, swim in the floating Josephine Baker pool, or kick back in a folding chair and do nothing at all. In association with Paris Plages, the mega-store Fnac puts on a concert series each year at the Pont de Sully.
The Indétendances Festival features free concerts every Friday and Saturday night between July 25 and August 16. Most of the acts are French - making this a good opportunity to discover local music - but a few good ones (like the American rock & soul band The BellRays) are imported from abroad. The full program is here.
these festivals make Paris a fantastic place to be in summertime, and the absence of Parisians just means that there’s twice as much space for the rest of us. See you at the beach!