The foodie world was buzzing in January with news of Pierre Jancou’s new wine bar. The man who transformed and then sold La Crèmerie - a well-known haunt for left-bank wine lovers – was starting something new in the city’s oldest covered passage.
I went to Racines with a friend during its opening week, before they had even turned on the gas. It takes a special kind of place to prepare a memorable meal without even having a stove. A spell was nonetheless cast, primarily because of the wines – all untreated, small-batch beauties that come from trusted organic producers. These were accompanied by crusty baguette, farmhouse cheeses, rillettes, and a salad of vegetables from Alain Passard’s famous organic garden. Were we tipsy, or was this a nearly perfect lunch?
I returned yesterday with the same friend to explore that very question. With gas and a working stove this time, Jancou prepared festonati au ragoût (pasta with an authentic bolognese sauce), joue de cochon (pork cheeks), and a tartare (raw beef) with hand-cut fries. We had one of each, after revisiting his delicious salad and rillettes.
The Racines rematch found me (again) tipsy and completely won over. The complexity and unpredictability of the wine is a major reason, but I also love the care that goes into selecting each ingredient, the simplicity of preparation, and the obvious love that Jancou has for what he’s doing now. Be advised, however, that he also loves his family and spends his weekends at home with them. So book ahead (you won’t get in otherwise) for lunch or dinner Monday through Friday.