In the heart of the Pigalle sex district, just down the street from the storied Moulin Rouge, La Cigale is one of my favorite places to see live music in Paris.

Photo: Andreas Praefcke

Founded in 1887 and protected as a historical monument, it began life as a cabaret featuring stars like Maurice Chevalier. Later on, in the years followoing the first world war, La Cigale on 120 Boulevard de Rochechouart played host to vaudeville theater and futuristic parties by Jean Cocteau. From the 1940s on, it fell into a bit of disrepair, becoming a cinema that specialized in Kung Fu and later X-rated films.

The venue got a new lease on life in 1987 when it was taken over and redecorated by rising designer Philippe Starck. La Cigale returned to its roots and once again started pulling in the best singer/songwriters of the day. The plush red seating and curvaceous balconies provide a lovely setting for quiet shows. I saw Vincent Delerm here and loved curling up in my velvet chair while trying to translate his lyrics. 

Photo: Mu Foo

Those same chairs are cast aside when the big bands come to town. La Cigale has a loud side, too, and books (along with la Maroquinerie) the best indie pop and rock shows in Paris. The main floor bounces like a trampoline during rowdy shows. As you can see from this video I made at last night's Vampire Weekend concert, you can't help but jump along. 

 
After the Show
When I want a post-concert bottle or a bite, I head west half a block to La Fourmi. This cavernous bar, which has a fabulous wine bottle chandelier, is inexpensive good fun. They serve basic sandwiches and pasta until around 11pm.

Cul de Poule                                                                                                           Photo: Mu Foo

Another alternative is to head south down the rue des Martyrs to Cul de Poule. This funky new hot spot serves great wine and simple food using top-shelf ingredients. Their kitchen stays open until 11pm, but they serve stellar charcuterie and cheese upon request until 1am. Play it safe and call ahead at +33 (0)1 53 16 13 07.

Advance Warning - If you're planning to be in Paris, you may want to reserve in advance for the following concerts at La Cigale:

November 13 - Franz Ferdinand 
November 16 - Hot Chip
November 26 - Stereolab
April 08 - Kim Wilde
April 09 - Sébastien Schuller

Insider Tip - when shows are sold out there's almost always somebody standing outside selling extra tickets at face value. Just show up and keep your ears open - you can usually score a ticket. Increase your chances by carrying a sign that reads cherche billet.

Go further: Read here at which music venues in Stockholm Francis goes dancing and screaming and here to find out where in Prague Jason goes for inexpensive beer and Czech art-rock.    

An out-of-the-way corner of the 20th arrondissement has recently become the center of hipster Paris. It all started with La Fleche d'Or - a locally-treasured concert hall that teeters above abandoned tracks. Formerly a train station, this cavernous space on 102 bis rue Bagnolet has for years been drawing crowds with it's free nightly shows. That's right, free concerts - with two to three bands playing every night, often followed by a DJ. The talent ranges from local and "interesting" to internationally-known and brilliant. Up-and-coming artists often play their first Paris gig here before returning to bigger shows at la Maroquinerie and other venues.

Photo: la Flèche d'Or

The spacious outdoor terrasse provides a place to talk with friends without having to shout. In the summer, people often spend more time here than inside watching the bands. If you didn't have time to eat beforehand, an adjoining restaurant puts out decent (not great) food. Drink prices are high here - a small beer will run you €6, and a watery cocktail is €8. But considering the free entry, it's still a relatively cheap night out. 

Photo: la Flèche d'Or

I've seen countless good shows here (and quite a few bad ones, too), but my favorite took place last summer when Zach Condon (of the band Beirut) came to play with his idols, the Macedonian marching band Kocani Orkestar. The video below gives an idea of the kind of joy that can erupt in this place.

Mama Shelter 

Photo: Francis Amiand

Open only a few months now, Mama Shelter is already a hotspot thanks to interior design by Philippe Starck, a funky bar and restaurant, and prices lower than you'd ever expect to find in Paris. Rooms start at just €79 (gasp!), and feature amenities like iMacs and Star Wars-themed bedside lamps.

 
Photo: Francis Amiand

In addition to its geek-chic clientele, Mama Shelter is also trying to seduce music fans. Understanding the allure of the neighboring rock club, the hotel has worked out a deal to let their guests jump to the front of the line at the Flèche d'Or. And because the queue can sometimes snake around the block, that little perk is nothing to sneeze at.

 
Photo: Mu Foo 

For music-loving travelers on a budget, Mama Shelter and La Flèche d'Or are an unbeatable combination. The hotel is one of the cheapest (and coolest) in the city, and you can't beat the price of admission at the club. Although it may be far from the center, there's plenty to love about about this quarter. Père Lachaise cemetary is around the corner, and the sweet quarter of Saint Blaise with its winding cobblestone streets is just a short wander away.

MAMA SHELTER; 109 rue Bagnolet, 75020.

Go further: Find out where in Prague Jason goes when he in mood for Czech art-rock and ZZ Top covers here and were in Stockholm Francis goes crazy at concerts with Swedish pop sensation Robyn here.