On our way down the gently sloping hillside’s pristine powder snow, we suddenly meet two other skiers. For several days the weather has been overcast, with snow and fresh breezes, but today everything is picture postcard perfect.

“What a lovely day, and such wonderful snow!” I say in my less-than-perfect French. “Yes, but Sainte Foy is always like this,” one of them answers. “And no other people at all!” “True, but don’t tell anybody. We’d like to keep it to ourselves,” he grins and scoots off in a series of impeccable little turns through the deep snow. I never get the chance to reply, and therefore I’m not obliged to keep the secret of Sainte Foy. I’m free to write these lines.
Right in the middle of France’s Olympic ski resort near Albertville, surrounded by Val d’Iséré, Tignes, Les Arcs and La Rosière, a tiny town complete with a small ski area can be found. Both are named Sainte Foy Tarentaise. Anyone who has been to Val d’Iséré or Tignes has driven through the little town, situated a mere 15 kilometres from Val d’Iséré.

Photo: Gliesh
But just driving through is a shame. To be perfectly blunt: it’s stupid not to spend a day or two in the Sainte Foy-area, even though the number of ski lifts is quite limited. Everything else is found in abundance, however. Charm, well-kept pistes, amazing off-piste possibilities (do not leave the pistes without a guide, though), no waiting in line at the lifts, and even more charm.
Allow me to return to the matter of lines at the lifts: when the lift operators aren’t taking in the wonderful view of Mont Blanc and the national park La Vanoise, they are rather bored. There isn’t a whole lot to do, as a matter of fact. On a beautiful off-season day there may be 50-60 skiers in the entire area, an area with ample room for 50 times as many.
As for instance the two pisteurs who enjoy the sunshine at 2620 metres, where the uppermost four-seated chair lift ends: we’ve passed by and said hello a dozen times, and it’s part of the ambience in Sainte Foy that people take the time to chat. “Weren’t you here last year?” one of the lift operators ask. “Yes, but only for a single day. Amazing that you remember that, but that’s probably because of the limited number of skiers here. Do you ever get lines at the lifts?”
His face fills with laughter lines as he answers: “Well, we did have a day with people waiting in lines – that was great! We really enjoyed it.” It should be mentioned that a ‘line’ in Sainte Foy is defined as a situation with more than two or three skiers waiting for the lift at the same time.

Photo: Gliesh
But what is the reason for the absence of skiers? The primary reason is that most ski tourists go for the big, exclusive and above all well-known destinations. That’s where the travel agencies let the tourists off the busses. Moreover, Sainte Foy is too small a place to become widely known. Environmentalists and conservationists have obstructed plans for additional lifts. A blessing in disguise, because that’s precisely why Sainte Foy has been able to retain the charm and simplicity that the larger, commercial ski resorts have lost.
Two restaurants are situated where the first lift ends and the second commences. That is, they’re called restaurants, even though ‘cabins’ would be a more appropriate term. Stone, wooden beams and hard work created ‘Les Brevettes’ and ‘Chez Leon’ several years ago. If one of the places is fully booked, try the other one. The food is splendidly prepared and very good, and if you contrary to expectation aren’t satisfied at the end of your meal, second helpings are available.
By Thomas Urhskov
Go further: Read here about how meditation and tai-chi make you a better skier and click here to read about Marko's life as a ski bum in the Alps.