Most working people take their lunch in restaurants between 1 and 2 P.M., so expect it to be busy!
Dinner is never eaten before 8 P.M., and it’s very common to meet for dinner at 9 or 10 or even later. But usually, the French go out for dinner at around 9 P.M. It is very rare for a restaurant to serve food before 7 P.M. – unless it has stayed open all day without interruption.
LES HALLES (1st & 2nd arr.)
Around Les Halles, Montorgueuil and Le Louvre, you should go to rue Etienne Marcel to eat or drink a cup of coffee. A few recommendable spots are
Le Café and
Le Lézard.
In rue Montmartre, 2nd arr. You'll find a cool café, Café Noir along side an Italian restaurant La Bocca and a bar Le Coeur Fou.
LE MARAIS (3rd & 4th arr.)
Le Georges
For a panoramic view of Paris, you should go to Le Georges.
Le Georges, Centre Pompidou
Café Beaubourg
At the foot of Beaubourg, on the square, is another one of the Costes brothers’ places, the eternally popular
Café Beaubourg, 100, rue Saint Martin, 4th
From the north to the south end of rue Vieille du Temple, you can take in lots of espressos in between the art galleries and the shopping:
Café Le Progrès
A good and cheap old-fashioned café with a young and hip crowd for coffee, lunch and aperitif.
Café Le Progrès. Corner of rue de Bretagne and rue Vieille du Temple. 3rd arr.
La Perle
An awfully modest looking bar which all of a sudden has became THE place to go for the hip crowd in Paris. People are standing in droves on the street at night, in order to drink espressos or wine from, let’s be honest, greasy glasses.
La Perle. Corner of rue de la Perle and rue Vieille du Temple. 3rd
A little string of cafés and restaurants with different design, but similar spirit and the same owner. Small outside terraces and lots of passers-by to look at.
Les Philosophes, no. 28
Le Petit Fer à Cheval, no. 30
La Belle Hortense, no. 31
L’Etoile Manquante, no. 34
- all in rue Vieille du Temple, 4th arr.
Le Trésor
And in a pretty flower decorated alley without any traffic coming from rue Vieille du Temple, Passage du Trésor, you will find a restaurant with a large and quiet terrace. Good Italian and French cuisine, reasonable prices and lots of satisfied customers for both lunch and dinner
Le Trésor, Passage du Trésor, 4th arr.
Next to the restaurant is the Café du Trésor with a similar terrace, if you only need a drink and to rest your feet and mind. And at the bottom of the alley, if you really need reviving, there is a small space, Studio Trésor, which is used by a brilliant Brazilian (and English speaking!) yoga professor, who gives private lessons and teaches small groups in Ashtanga yoga. Her name is Ana Maria, just ask inside the restaurant.
Café Pick-Clops. Café with a long yellow bar and a crowd of hip, young, urban regulars. Great atmosphere. 4th arr.
In the other part of le Marais, around the pretty pink Place des Vosges, you can find some great restaurants. Not the ones on the square itself, but in the streets behind it.
Gli Angeli
Delicious Italian cooking.
Gli Angeli, 5, rue St Gilles, 3rd arr.
Le Petit Marché
Great French food, great atmosphere.
Le Petit Marché, 9, rue Béarn, 3rd arr.
GRANDS BOULEVARD (9th arr.)
Restaurant Chartier
Chartier is a huge restaurant, which attracts hordes of ordinary Parisians and tourists. You will get the atmosphere of a classic, beautiful and noisy French brasserie for a modest amount of money. There is slap-bang service. The waiters run around carrying eight or ten dishes at the time, getting the patrons dispatched in a hurry. There is always a line.
Restaurant Chartier, 7, rue Faubourg Montmartre
www.restaurant-chartier.com
RÉPUBLIQUE & BASTILLE (11th arr.)
Café Charbon
A big café with high ceilings and a great atmosphere and a young clientele. You’ll get a decent and reasonably priced meal here.
Café Charbon, 109, rue Oberkampf
Café de l’Industrie
A charming and beautifully decorated café/restaurant, with just as charming and beautiful waitresses. A very popular place. They have a second space across the street.
Café de l’Industrie,16, rue St Sabin
By Katrine Salomon