Photo: Route79

Have you ever taken your lunchbreak, sat on a park bench on a clear, still day, with only the faint hum of traffic for company, and asked yourself: "What is Art?" I thought not. Who has the time? I don’t know about you, but my lunchbreak is only half an hour, and people have been trying to answer this question for centuries.

Leo Tolstoy, the great novelist, claimed in his 1896 treatise ‘What is Art’: "Art is not, as the metaphysicians say, the manifestation of some mysterious idea of beauty or God; it is not, as the aesthetical physiologists say, a game in which man lets off his excess of stored-up energy; it is not the expression of man's emotions by external signs; it is not the production of pleasing objects; and, above all, it is not pleasure; but it is a means of union among men, joining them together in the same feelings, and indispensable for the life and progress toward well-being of individuals and of humanity."

Phew! Next time I see some crappy tag in the train station I’ll think again!

Federation Square Photo: Lonelytraveller_76

But seriously, someone really should have asked the question – "What is Art?" – before building Federation Square. Set in the heart of Melbourne, this spasm of post-modernism is juxtaposed proudly against the elegant, gold-rush era Flinder’s Street Station. But to be honest, it’s neither federated OR square and looks like an autistic child’s Lego set.

Flinder's Street Station Photo: USAFA87

However, the National Gallery of Victoria’s Australian Art campus is set inside the bowels of this Dali-esque marvel and it is here one can find real, genuine works of art – such as the newly acquired, 3.2 million dollar masterpiece 'At The Bar'.

'At the Bar' Photo: Ali MC

'At the Bar' was painted by artist John Brack and the gallery recently purchased it to accompany its companion painting, 'Collins St, 5pm'. Both works depict common scenes of daily life in Melbourne. 'At the Bar' depicts the ‘6 o’clock swill’, the rush of recently knocked-off workers for last drinks before the bar closes up. (Don’t be alarmed at the early closing time of the pub – the painting was done in 1954, and Melbourne bars stay open much later these days!).

'Collins St, 5pm' Photo: Ali MC

'Collins St, 5pm' depicts grey-and-black clad office workers traipsing towards the trains and trams that will take them home to the sprawling suburbs on a gusty grey autumn evening in 1955 – a scene not too unfamiliar in 2009.

John Brack is but one of many fantastic Australian, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artists one can see at the NGV Australia gallery. Tim Leura Tjapaltjarri, Rover Thomas, Tom Roberts and John Glover are all displayed here, in a fine art collection that rivals any overseas offering.

Photo: Ali MC

So next time you want to ask yourself "What is Art", ask yourself "What is Australian Art", and take a trip to Federation Square. Here you will find the answer in the NGV Australia gallery, and best of all, it’s free. But if you want to, by all means, please make a donation - this gallery has a 3.2 million dollar painting to pay off. And as for Federation Square, I’ll merely quote Banksy: "Think outside the box, collapse the box, and take a fucking sharp knife to it."

FEDERATION SQUARE; Corner Swanston & Flinders Streets, Melbourne

Meet Joanna (NGV Information Officer)

What do you think of NGV spending 3.2 million dollars in the midst of the Global Financial Crisis?

They’ve actually borrowed the money and they’re hoping to raise the rest through donations. But overall, it’s a good thing because good art is nourishing to people.

Do you think the term ‘Australian Art’ is typified by Aboriginal or non-Aboriginal Art (or both)?

Both, because they are both made in Australia. Anyone who makes art that in some way has a connection to Australia can call their art Australian.

Do you think Melbourne is a city of opportunity for artists?

For sure. The lifestyle is still pretty cheap. Mostly when you do art, you do it in your own time, so you need to be able to afford to spend time doing it – and not working.

Photo: Pareeerica

’Crikey, a bloody croc’s got me leg!’ Judging from Australia’s number one television export of recent years, you’d think that all Australians wear khaki shorts, live in the ‘outback’ and wrestle crocodiles as a national pastime.

I’m often surprised at the popularity of Steve Irwin overseas, where he is arguably the most well-known Australian. A couple of years ago I was on a bus in Transylvania – yes, Romania – when the girl sitting next to me asked me where I was from. Upon answering her, she said "I’m sorry to hear that Steve Irwin died." I didn’t know he had died – apparently it was only a couple of days beforehand. Curious, I asked, "How did he die?"

"A stingray stung him."

‘Oh.’ I thought about that for a minute. I was quite surprised. I figured all along he’d eventually get bit by a snake, or mauled by a crocodile. But a stingray?

"Crikey." What else could you say?

But the majority of Australians live far from the bush, deep in sterile suburbia. I hate to say it, but ‘Neighbours’ more closely resembles the average Aussie lifestyle than the ‘Crocodile Hunter’. However, Aussies still have a time honoured love – and recently, a deep  respect – of the bush.

Twice a year, hordes of Melbournians pack up their 2 door, 4 cylinder hatchbacks and drive a couple of hours to a farm just outside the small town of Meredith. It is here that the Meredith Music and Golden Plains festivals are held.

City kids struggle with tents and sleeping bags are dusted off for 3 days of music, ranging from rock, country and western, folk, reggae and funk. You might even see puppets playing swirling Hammond organs or perhaps join a Tennessee ho-down.

But whatever the music, it is the venue that sets the scene. Dubbed the ‘Supernatural Amphitheatre’, the stage is set in a natural hollow in the bush. At night, when the sun is setting, the vibes can be fantastic – as long as it isn’t raining.

Yes, believe it or not, it isn’t always sunny in Australia, especially in Victoria where the Crowded House song title Four Seasons in One Day rings true. But last weekend we were blessed with mild weather, and although it got bitterly cold at night, the sun shone for most of the time.

As well as the unique setting and the great music, Golden Plains festival is a favourite for punters due to its Bring Your Own alcohol policy (as long as it’s not in glass). For those readers in Europe, that may not seem such a big deal – I’ve seen the keg mountains at Chiemsee – but in Australia this is quite an anomaly to the usual inflated-price substandard drinks deals one can barely tolerate at summer festivals.

There are many festivals in Australia every summer, so if you happen to be ‘downunder’ at that time, then ‘strewth, get your bloody arse to a piss up.’

Meet Jimi

What brings you back to the Golden Plains Festival every year?

My girlfriends’ car and a really great line up of bands. It's the last of the summer festivals and easily the best so I don't miss it.

Do you think that Melbourne has a unique music and arts scene?

Yeah probably, I haven't travelled all that much and I've always lived in the city so it's hard to know how unique the music and arts scene is but there's not really a time throughout the year when it dies down and that's something I appreciate a lot

Jimi, how much have you had to drink at the festival so far?

Well I brought down enough to kill a horse and most of that is gone now, there is about 12 hours of music left so ask me again later on and I'll show you my special golden moves.

Go further: Find out about Meg's favourite music venues in Paris here and here and where in Prague Jason goes and listens to Czech art-rock here.

I’m at the bar, waiting for a drink. The chime above the door rings, disturbing the jazz grooves on the stereo and signalling a new arrival to the small, sun lit, front room. A young woman, well tanned and wearing a low cut top, enters and looks around curiously. I examine the new arrival curiously. She is considerably well tanned.

The young woman sizes up her new surrounds, as you often do when you find yourself in an unfamiliar establishment. The front bar, although well stocked, is rather small. She catches my eye and asks: “Is this all there is?”

I laugh and answer with a smile. “There’s way more to this place. Just head out the back.” It is the height of a hot Melbourne summer and unbeknownst to her, she has stumbled across one of the best Sunday sessions going – Sunday Soundsets at The Horn.

Set in Collingwood, The Horn is a restaurant, bar and live music venue rolled into one and baked at a high temperature. Specialising in Ethiopian cuisine and African beers, from Thursday to Sunday you can catch a host live bands and DJs; jazz, traditional African styles, hip hop, reggae and funk are the norm here.

But an afternoon visit to a Sunday Soundset is the perfect way to round off the weekend and stave off the working week for as long as possible. Entry is free, beers are cheap and the meals are very filling.

At 3pm it’s time for some laid back hip hop DJ styles and the first of a few cheap Ethiopian beers - $4 Dashens between 2 and 5pm. The back yard beer garden is relaxed and slowly fills up with people and empty beer bottles.

By 7pm, 9 piece band the Black Jesus Experience are fusing jazz, funk, hip hop and traditional Ethiopian sounds, a blend of music I once heard described as ‘jungle jazz’. I munch on a deliciously spicy Ethiopian vegetarian dish, accompanied by injera (a type of fermented bread), and sit back to savour this little slice of East Africa in the heart of urban Melbourne..

By 9pm, the sun has set, the air is sultry with the smell of ground coffee, berbere and frankincense. The dancefloor is full and it’s time for a splashalicious - the house cocktail, lovingly designed, shaken and poured by bar tender and vibesman Matty Fresh.

I spot the girl with the delicious tan down the front, getting down to a big bass sound and loving life. I take another sip of my drink and think about joining her.

THE HORN - THE AFRICAN MUSIC LOUNGE; 20 Johnston Street, Collingwood, 3066 Melbourne

Meet Enushu

Enushu part-owns the Horn with partner Peter and friend Matty Fresh. She also sings in the Ethiopian-jazz fusion group, the Black Jesus Experience. I caught up with her at a summery Sunday Soundset.

Enushu, where are you from and why did you move to Melbourne?

I’m from Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia. I moved here to have a better life and have now lived in Melbourne for 13 years.

What was the idea behind starting the Horn?

We’ve been open nearly two years, and the idea was to bring people together through music and food. It’s also nice to show Australian people Ethiopian food and culture.

What is the best thing about living in Melbourne?

The different people and cultures, which means different food and music.

This recession is causing travel prices to yo-yo, po-go and even go-go. Flight prices are up and down like the Wright brothers’ first flight and both Qantas and Virgin (Australia’s main carriers) are suspending certain routes.

I’m convinced billionaire Richard Branson sets low prices while he’s high and high prices while he’s low. Take one look at his new ‘V Australia’ launch party pics and I’m sure you’ll agree. Recently I booked a flight on the trans-Pacific from Sydney to L.A for AUS$1600 return. A week later that same flight was AUS$2400. Now it’s around the AUS$1200 mark. To be honest, I couldn’t really care less how much it costs as long as I’m served alcohol mid-flight by one of his blonde hangers ons.

Yes - flights from Australia to the United States are cheap. However, right now our currency is more dong than dollar, making travel in Europe, the UK or the US far too expensive for us Aussies. So I propose an alternative - travel without the travel.

Dragon Parade in Melbourne's Chinatown Photo: Avlxyz

If you are considering Australia as a holiday destination, or you’re an Australian looking for a unique cultural experience, Melbourne has numerous neighbourhoods in which you can escape. For a short while, you can imagine you are in Turkey, Vietnam, Africa or China. For Melbourne is a multi-cultural hub where people from all over the world have come to live – and the food, entertainment, shopping and nightlife has followed them here.

Sydney Road Photo: Nomad Tales

And it’s not that hard to find. Just last weekend I took the Number 19 tram up Sydney Road for a taste of  the Middle East. In these northern suburbs – Brunswick, Moreland and Coburg – it is possible to find all manner of Middle Eastern cafes, bakeries, grocers, sweet shops, gift shops and butchers - even Islamic women’s wear.

The Middle Eastern influence in unmistakable, and reflects the cultural backgrounds of the people who live in the neighbourhood – even Big Sam’s Pizzas contain Halal meat. Shop signs are written in Arabic script and many of the locals sport traditional head-dresses. While young girls wear a headscarf, some women opt for wearing a full length black burqua.

First, I have breakfast at my favourite café. Tucked around a corner off Sydney Road, this establishment offers a Middle Eastern-influenced menu - Lebanese sausage in baked eggs, lamb Kofta on pide, and toast with Turkish jams. The food is unique and it all smells delicious, and there is a great atmosphere – rarely is this cafe empty.

But I have no idea what the place is called, so I can’t help you with directions. All I will tell you is – look for a cafe covered in graffiti. But this still doesn’t help, as most of Melbourne is covered in graffiti. Better for you to poke around and find your own favourite coffee nook.

After breakfast I head to one of the numerous bakeries and cafes for thick strong coffee coupled with a delicious sweet snack. It is also possible to sit down for a few leisurely tokes on a nargileh, wander through a fruit and vegetable market, or pause to admire some Islamic handicrafts.

However, my Middle Eastern daydream is interrupted when a turbaned fellow with a bushy moustache and dark swarthy skin greets me as I enter his café with the colloquial “G’day mate!”. For a short time, I had almost convinced myself I was somewhere else on the map of the world. But that ‘g’day’ reminds me I’m in Melbourne – so I’d better hurry home and put the cricket on.

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Meet Rimi

Do you think the recession has affected travel for Australians?

Not me! I'm splurging my savings on a Euro-Americano-Carribeo trip later this year and will deal with the consequences when I get back.
 
Do you often visit different neighbourhoods around the city?

Today I’m buying Turkish sweets up in Coburg. I think it’s great that there are so many different cultures near where I live.

What do you like best about living in Melbourne?

I like the public transport in Melbourne. It means I can live without a car. And it's been 2 years since I set foot inside a shopping mall!