Photo: Kashmir

A few years ago I spent two very interesting seasons guiding skiers in Jasna, Slovakia. I worked for a Finnish travel company called Elamysmatkat.com. Altogether, I spent about 11 weeks in Slovakia. In this article I will tell you about my experiences skiing at Jasna Ski Resort, Slovakia.

The western part of the Carpathian Mountains, Tatra, is most likely one of the least known Central European mountain ranges. However, the peaks in the Tatra Mountains are the highest ones between the Alps and the Caucasus. The nature in the area is also very unique. The phrases “the smallest big mountains in the world” or “the miniature Alps” are often used to describe these peaks.

The Jasna Ski Resort in Slovakia is actually located a bit south from the main Tatra Ridge, known as the High Tatras, in a slightly smaller mountain range called the Low Tatras. I use the term Tatra when talking about the Low Tatras as well. There are some differences between the areas but the overall feel is pretty much the same (for a skier at least).

Why go skiing in Slovakia?

You might ask why one would go to Slovakia for skiing? To be honest, it doesn’t fully compare to the bigger mountain ranges if you only look at the cold facts. But there are factors that still make the trip worthwhile: the relatively low price level, unique nature, and the rich culture. And, of course, the nice snow. The amounts of it might vary a lot from year to year, though. But the fact that from the Tatras there’s about a thousand-kilometer distance to any sea coast can make for a very dry and enjoyable, so-called “inland” snow (also found in places like Colorado, USA). This was one of the most pleasant surprises that Slovakia offered me.

In addition, it’s often pretty cold in the Tatras, a fact that I love. Yes, I love cold, true winter and the light snow it offers. In my book, skiing the trees in a snowstorm while the snow just fluffs everywhere is as good as it gets.

Jasna Ski Resort

Photo: Andrijbulba

Jasna Ski Resort is the most developed one in Slovakia. It has vertical meters of about 1100 meters (~3300 feet) and a modern lift system with four-person Doppelmayer lifts. The new Poma lift offers rides to the top of the Chopok Mountain, linking two previously separated ski resorts, Chopok-South and Chopok-North. This gives the skier in Jasna Ski Resort a lot more options as e.g. the snow situation can vary significantly between the two sides of the mountain (mainly due to prevailing wind direction).

If you want to get good groomed, on-piste skiing, get up early and head for the first lifts. Especially during the high season (the first three weeks in February), the lift lines can be long. My favorite trail is the FIS GS Slope from Rovna Hola to Zahradky, which is great for long and fast GS-type turns. Too bad Zahradky is also clearly the most crowded down station. So, getting there early is essential for good turns on a freshly groomed slope.

Jasna ski resort has several marked free-ride zones. Other parts of the ridge belong to the national park and are protected. Generally, the whole Tatra and Fatra (nearby smaller mountain range) are declared natural reservations.

The top lift basically allows you to get on the Low Tatra (Nizke Tatry) ridge and hike horizontally along the ridge – giving plenty of possibilities for nice backcountry skiing on both sides of the ridge in Jasna ski resort. North facing aspect even has some really steep (~50 degrees) relatively short chutes/couloirs of about 250 meters or 700~800 feet of vertical. Beware of the snow conditions and rocks though! The south side offers mellower and longer descents, often in a more “corn” type of snow, given its aspect towards the sun. The marked freeride zones offer plenty to explore, but if you want to ski out of bounds it is only allowed with a certified mountain guide.

Accommodation

Jasna ski resort has no clear village, just hotels located quite randomly near the ski lifts and/or along the beautiful Demanovska Dolina valley. When I was guiding at the Jasna ski resort we stayed at the relatively cheap Mikulasska Chata, near Otupne lift station.

By the way, ”Chata” means “hut”/”cottage” in Slovak but can basically be anything from a real mountain hut to a motel level accommodation. “Hotels” on the other hand are the ones with bars, lounges, restaurant, swimming pool; one could say anything with the status “Hotel” is pretty high class in Slovakia.

Jasna ski resort has a small number of very high standard hotels, e.g. Tri Studnicky, Hotel Grand. On the other hand, Hotel Sverma (this is for those of you looking the original seventies “Eastern Bloc” feel!) Hotel Liptov and Hotel Junior are clearly at a lower level, although they are cheaper too. The biggest hotels are owned by the same company that runs the lifts, so you can get valuable packages “all included” (accommodation, food, lift tickets). Anyway, prices are on the rise, and it is recommended to check out the smaller hotels/hostels for even better prices and offers.

Dining and night life

Photo: Orsinka

All the hotels offer standard western food (comparable to what is available in e.g. Austria/Germany). The price level is very reasonable too. Hotel Tri Studnicky is the most expensive but also very gourmet. Local game like deer and wild boar were my favorite dishes.

On the slopes a very good option is to head for Koliesko. It has the cheapest (and the most greasy!) slope-side restaurant food I’ve ever had, and a very cosy atmosphere. For dining and just taking it easy, Bar Peklo along Mikulasska Chata is recommended, with nice smaller or larger snacks, good food, and a polite staff. This was the favorite hang out for Finns in the early evenings. By the way, “Peklo” means “Hell” in Slovak…no wonder this was the place for Finns!

For even more options, head for the town called Liptovsky Mikulas down the valley. Busses commute regularly through the day between Jasna resort and the town. Also, taking a cab won’t drive you into bankruptcy.

The night clubs at the Hotels are the place to go in the evenings. Back in 2003 and 2004, Junior Hotel and Hotel Grand had the best crowds and even some nice DJs and theme parties now and then. The town of Liptovsky Mikulas is also a place to check out, and it is a good place to meet locals. The vibe there is mellower and surely something different from your typical ski resorts. In addition, there are even more cheap, great restaurants where you can eat really well. 

Oh and how could I forget? The local beer is good and cheap. Some say Czech beer is a lot better but I didn’t complain. Be very aware of the local poisons Borovicka and Slivovica; hangovers can be furious.

Other attractions

Photo: Kashmir

If you want to take a day or two off from skiing, or if the snow conditions are bad, there are plenty of cultural and physical activities you can engage in.
You can, for example, relax your body in one of the many spas found in the area. This is a very popular après ski activity. There is anything from family-type spa centers to open-air natural spas. I recommend the latter for an authentic feel. The town of Besenová has an open-air spa center. It is a pretty cool feeling to bathe in hot thermal water in cold winter air, under the stars and the nearby dark mountain peaks.

In the winter, walking the forest on a pair of snowshoes would be a viable option for an easier snow activity. Paragliding is also hugely popular among the locals, and they offer so-called tandem flights for the bravehearted.

Demanovksa Dolina, just a few kilometers down from Jasna Resort, has the most beautiful and popular stalactite cave in all of Slovakia. There are old towns with medieval castles and museums of all kinds virtually everywhere. The Old Town of nearby Banska Bystrica, and the cities Poprad, Kosice and Zilina are worth a visit. It is not a long way to the capital, Bratislava, either. Some of my clients even did one-day or two-day trips to Budapest, Hungary, or Vienna, Austria. In eastern central Europe the distances are not huge – you have plenty of options for exploring!

Go further: Read Thomas Uhrskovs portrait of Sainte Foy and find out why he dislikes extreme sports so much. 

Photo: Ptrktn

How about skiing in Finland? Imagine skiing in deep silence on a cold winter day, surrounded by snowy hills in the wilderness? How about enjoying a tasty meal made of reindeer while the light of an open fire flickers outside your cottage? How about going to a hot smoke sauna, then swimming in a hole cut in the ice-covered lake, and sleeping in an igloo? All this is possible in Finland, far away from all the hustle and bustle of metropolitan cities. 

Finland provides ski experiences you won't get anywhere else. Although Finnish ski resorts are much smaller than those in Central Europe, skiing in Finland can be a unique and different experience. Perhaps this is the reason why every year thousands of skiers England, Germany, Japan, Russia and elsewhere travel to Finland.

Five best ski resorts in Finland

There are several dozen ski resorts in Finland, but only a few are worth visiting from abroad. In this article, I will introduce you to the five best ski resorts in Finland.

Pyhä - Ski resort where Finnish ski bums and seasonnaires meet

Photo: Anttrouh

I was born in the middle of Lapland, in a small village north of the Arctic Circle. I learned to ski at six years of age, and I went skiing almost every single weekend at my "home hill", Pyhä ski resort. In 1997 I went skiing abroad. I skied many interesting resorts in France, Italy and Switzerland, but every spring I returned back to my "home hill" Pyhä ski resort because it was the place to meet all the other ski bums and die-hard skiers.

Pyhä ski resort is like Jackson Hole, but again a lot smaller. Pyhä ski resort is known for providing the most challenging runs and backcountries in Finland, and that's the reason why ski bums meet there. Pyhä is pretty small, but it also offers many other winter activities. After-ski in Pyhä is fairly mellow. There are a couple of nice restaurants where skiers meet after a long day of skiing. If you are looking for good slopes and genuine Finnish backcountries, Pyhä ski resort is the place for you.

Saariselkä - Peaceful and charming ski resort for families and older skiers

Photo: YoungRobV

Finland is a northern country with 5 million inhabitants. Almost all the people live in the southern part of the country. The farther north you go, the less people you meet. Saariselkä ski resort is located quite high above the Arctic Circle, and it is one of the most silent ski resorts in Finland. Alpine skiing in Saariselkä is not the main point, but the relaxing silence and nature is. Saariselkä is good for families and older people, because in addition to a number of fairly easy slopes, the resort also features a spa and other wellness services.

Saariselkä ski resort is where Sami people live. When you spend your holidays at Saariselkä ski resort, you can experience the unique and exotic culture of Sami people. You can even see street signs written in both Sami and Finnish languages. After-ski in Saariselkä is pretty quiet, leaving plenty of opportunity to enjoy the silence of the northern wilderness.

Ylläs - Biggest Finnish ski resort with longest runs

Photo: Ristok

Just like Saariselkä, Ylläs ski resort is located far to the north in Finland, but more on the western edge of the country. Ylläs is one of the biggest ski resorts in Finland. In addition to the longest runs in Finland, Ylläs also provides many other winter and snow activities. Ylläs is located near Levi and Kittilä airport, so accessing Ylläs is very easy.

From an after-ski point of view, Ylläs ski resort is also pretty quiet, at least in comparison to the neighboring Levi ski resort. Ylläs provides fine dining and a couple of bars, but "party animals" usually stay away from Ylläs. If you are looking for a quiet and relaxing place to ski and enjoy nature, check out Ylläs ski resort in Finland.

Pallas - Unique place to enjoy the silence of the wilderness

Photo: Blog20

The last Finnish ski resort in this list is totally different from the others. Pallas is a very unique ski resort, almost a well-kept secret. Pallas has only a few runs and a couple of lifts as well as one hotel and restaurant. Pallas ski resort is very quiet and peaceful, so those looking for wild after-ski should point their skis toward Levi ski resort.

The best thing in Pallas is the almost palpable silence. During the darkest time (January) you can feel the wild nature around you, hear the Willow Grouse and see big groups of reindeers. Pallas ski resort is one of the best places for sky watching and observing the northern lights. Pallas can provide you an unforgettable experience. Check out Pallas ski resort for a completely different skiing holiday.

Levi - The most versatile ski resort in Finland

Photo: Kaimp

Levi ski resort in Finland is like a miniature version of Les Trois Vallees in France. Levi is the most versatile Finnish ski resort in that it not only provides excellent skiing in different forms, but also other winter activities, such as snow mobile safaris, reindeer safaris, winter fishing, horseback riding and arctic rally driving.

Levi ski resort features 44 runs and 28 lifts, quality hotels, luxury cottages and a spa. After-ski in Levi is pretty wild, so prepare to stay up late with all the other party animals. Levi ski resort is easy to access because of the nearby airport in Kittilä. Having a car in Levi makes it easy to get around, so consider renting a car beforehand.

Go further: Read Thomas Uhrskovs portrait of Sainte Foy and click here to read about storming skiing in St. Anton.

Photo: YoungRobV 

I grew up in northern Finland, "behind the back of God", as people humorously tend to say. I was a wild child full of energy, always looking for some action. You know, life above the Arctic Circle is quiet and peaceful, and I didn't like it. I needed action, speed and strong emotional experiences. So I started looking for them.

I started skiing in 1980, at the age of six. I got hooked. All I wanted to do was ski, year after year. I wanted to compete with others and I wanted to beat them all. I wanted to ski faster than my mates, and I did it. Soon I realized that my local hill was no longer challenging for me. It was time to move on.

In 1992 I studied at our local high school. I was pretty good at school, but my motivation was in skiing. I had heard of places such as the Alps, Jackson Hole, Vail and people like Trevor Petersen, Eric Pehota and Doug Coombs. I remember staring at the pictures of my idols ski the huge mountain faces of the Chugach Mountains. I wanted to be there. I wanted to experience that great and wonderful world of snowy mountains, but because it was so far from my life realities, I was satisfied with my job at the local ski resort. I worked in a restaurant, washing dishes. I didn't like it.

Suddenly I just became a ski bum

Photo: Phileole

I got fired. I moved to Helsinki to study, but I wasn't sure what I would do in my life. I was excited with all the wild parties and such, but I knew it was not what I was looking for. Then suddenly my life changed at one crazy student party. My friend introduced to her boyfriend who was a "ski bum". When I heard his "title", I wanted to know more, more, more. It turned out that he had spent a couple of full seasons skiing with his mates in Chamonix. I was stunned!

Only a couple of months later I was sitting on a bus from the Geneva airport to Chamonix. Man, I was excited and happy, but also a bit afraid. I was stepping into a totally new world, into the world of ski bums. God, I was happy I met those guys.

I will never forget my first morning in Chamonix

Photo: Phileole

I arrived in Chamonix around 8 pm. I couldn't see the mountains due to clouds, but I felt I had arrived in the skiing mecca. I called my friend who was the only person I knew in Chamonix. Later that night I was sitting in a bar with these ultra cool "mountain men". I was happier than ever before. I had found my world.

As the first rays lightened my room, I woke up and stepped outside of my hostel. The sky was clear, the sun was shining and the ground was covered with pure white powder snow. It was a staggering moment. I saw the high peaks of the Grandes Jorasses, the mighty Aiguille Verde and the massive Mont Blanc. I quickly took my skis and headed to the cable car where my new friends were waiting with all their fancy mountaineering equipment. God, it was awesome!

Skiing the mountains of Chamonix all day long - Living my life full speed

During that season we conquered many mountains faces and steep couloirs. We explored the backcountries of Chamonix, slept in snowcaves and mountain huts, and had wild parties indoors when it was snowing. We were serious about powder skiing and we wanted to experience it all. We experienced many stunning moments in the mountains, but if you ask me "what was the best single thing about being a ski bum", I would reply "friendships". I met a number of people who became true friends during those years in Chamonix, and I still keep in touch with those guys. The best thing was that we killed the mountains, had wild parties and shared all those magnificent experiences with the small community of ski bums.

I spent many seasons as a ski bum between 1997 and 2002. Now, after many years, I'm going back. This time I will go with my sons. It is time to move on, once again.

Go further: Read Thomas Uhrskovs portrait of Sainte Foy and click here to find out how meditation and tai-chi make him a better skier.