In Jonathan Lethem's cult detective novel Motherless Brooklyn, a character dubs it "the only body of water in the world that is 90% guns". He's talking about the Gowanus (pronounced go-WAAN-us) Canal, legendary mafia body dump in New York, and, up until recently, a forgotten relic of the city's nefarious past and former industrial and maritime glory. Although the canal itself is still grimy, these days you're more likely to stumble on an environmental activist planting wildflowers on its banks than a hitman dumping his weapon in its murky depths. That's largely thanks to the stellar work of the Gowanus Canal Conservancy, helped along by the local bars, clubs and markets lured to the area by its cheap warehouses and edgy reputation. Sandwiched between the more polite, family-friendly 'hoods of Carroll Gardens, Boerum Hill and Park Slope, Gowanus has become a place where the locals can let rip - without waking someone's baby. Come the summer, it's a weekend long party at BKLYN Yard, but even in the bitter winter months there's music and stalls at the newly minted (Makers) Market at the Old American Can Factory. If you like your diamonds in the rough, then it's definitely worth planning a night out in the neighbourhood. But take a map: Gowanus' gems are discreetly signposted, and the rumours of the canal's sinister past feel all too believable in the pitch black of night.

In recent years Billyburg (as the locals call it) has become synonymous with PBR-swilling hipsters. Dig a little deeper, though, and you’ll discover that this Brooklyn neighbourhood is one of the most vibrant, multicultural places in the city. Allow yourself at least a couple of hours for this walk – more if, like me, you’re easily distracted by record stores, bakeries and dive bars.