JHE

Victoria And Albert Museum: Captivating By Design

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Thu, 21 May 2009 13:31:00 GMT

Living in London for years, as I have, can make one dangerously complacent about the city’s museums. It’s too easy to put off visiting them because they’ve always been there, only to realise that you’ve not been in ages. In an attempt to combat this kind of attrition, my best friend Lauren and I are dedicated to pretending to be tourists on a regular basis. So on this sunny Saturday, we are off to the Victoria and Albert Museum in South Kensington.

Specialising in art and design, the collection at the V&A spans thousands of years: everything from post-classical sculpture to ancient Chinese weapons to twentieth-century food packaging, all housed across 12.5 acres of gallery space in the magnificent Victorian building

Today, Lauren and I are keen to check out the current special exhibition, which runs until the end of May: Hats, An Anthology. The curator is Stephen Jones, one of the world’s most prolific milliners. I have an ambivalent relationship with hats: my head is enormous, and it’s rare that I can ever find one that even remotely fits, which is irritating. But it also makes me sad, as I think that hats are ever so fetching and I would quite like to wear them all of the time. Will the exhibit distress me? I’m a little concerned.

I get told off for trying to take a photo, so you shall just have to take my word for it: the glass cases hold a truly astonishing selection of headgear, from the mundane to the magnificent – my favourite is an intricately-beaded number that looks like a cauliflower. There are famous hats (Darth Vader’s helmet, the mauve pillbox that Carla Bruni wore on her first visit to the UK as French First Lady) and there are functional hats (the style currently worn by British Airways stewardesses, a bicycle helmet almost identical to the one I have at home).

Lauren expresses mild disappointment that Jones did not include more social history in the exhibition. "Why did women stop wearing hats?" she asks, when we go for tea afterwards. "Would we be wearing hats right now, drinking tea?’ But I am delighted to have seen several fanciful creations that are pinned on top of the head, rather than fitting snugly around it, leaving me hopeful that I, too, can sport some proper English lady headgear at the wedding I’m attending this summer. Inspired, I try one on a wispy confection in the gift shop before we leave, but at ninety-five pounds, I decide it’s not for me.

Entrance to the Victoria and Albert Museum is free, with a charge for some special exhibitions.

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL

Better The Second Time: Vintage Fashion On Brick Lane

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 09:27:00 GMT

Photo from Rchappo2002

Regrets: like Frank Sinatra, I have a few, but none feel so sharp today as the time that I told my mother that she should throw away the remnants of her 1960s and ‘70s wardrobe. "This might come back into fashion and you might want it," she said, proffering a boxy floral Laura Ashley blouse. Aged nine, and devoted to sporting a pair of black leggings with a large pink bow at the waistline, I scoffed. I hardly imagined that I’d ever see people wearing clothes like my mum’s cast-offs; I never dreamed that I’d see people buying them.

Photo: Ben-Romberg

But buy them they do, at a dense cluster of vintage shops at the north end of Brick Lane in East London. Yes, Brick Lane: you probably know it as the epicentre of London’s curry culture – and it is, with dozens of restaurants serving (mostly Bengali) spicy treats. You might even associate it with the previous wave of immigration – before the influx of Asian residents, Brick Lane was the centre of London’s East European Jewish community. But now one could say that the latest wave of migrants to the street is the hundreds of young, hip Londoners who use the Lane for their vintage wardrobe needs.

Photo: Ben-Romberg

A warmish Sunday like this one is the best kind of day to go, because the road is essentially closed to traffic and fills up not just with swarms of pedestrians, but with amateur dealers of vintage fashion who set out their wares on blankets and towels along the pavement in an ad hoc market. While the quality (and sources) of their wares may sometimes be questionable, their prices are unbeatable: today I pick up a old-fashioned tulle skirt that would be at least twice at much in one of the established vintage shops.

Photo: Sebbywood

For the real gems, however, you do generally need to look beyond the piles of garb on the pavements. There’s quite a lot of debate about which of the shops is best, not to mention some substantial rivalry – especially between the smaller shop owners and the proprietors of the giant Beyond Retro, which is housed in an old warehouse on Cheshire Street, just off Brick Lane. Unlike vintage dealers in Notting Hill, who source more of their clothing from the UK and Europe, I’m informed by a fashion designer friend that much of the stock on Brick Lane is imported from the US – which explains why it can be a bit pricey, and also why I saw for sale an exact copy of one of those dresses that my mum recycled at my behest.

Photo: Daisybush

My friends in the know (the ones who work in fashion and can wear decades-old clothes without looking like scarecrows) inform me that This Shop Rocks, on Brick Lane itself, is the best of the bunch. And, indeed, any woman would need to be truly stony-hearted not to delight at the sight of the delicious collection of dresses, hats, coats and handbags. Only the fact that I don’t have a boyfriend at the moment stopped me from leaving with a charming vintage wedding dress. And now I’m kind of regretting that, too.

A Culinary Wonderland: Foodie Central At Borough Market

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:29:00 GMT

Throwing dinner parties are one of my favourite things: I like to think that I make up for what I lack in presentation (none of my plates match; there are never enough chairs) with enthusiasm for trying new recipes and baking cakes. But last Friday night’s soiree had to be extra-special, as it was serving a dual purpose: welcoming my friend Laura, who was in town visiting from New York, and thanking my pals Hetty and Ben for lending me their acting skills (and dignity) in a short film that we made earlier this month.

In other words? This was a job for Borough Market. Depending on who you ask, Borough Market is either extremely old, dating back to the thirteenth century, or very extremely old, dating back to Roman times. In either case, this sprawling market, just south of London Bridge, is the undisputed heart of London’s foodie culture. Wholesalers are there every weekday morning from 2 a.m to 8 a.m. (celebrity chefs like Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsey are often spotted making their selections), but amateur cooks like me shop at the retail market on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

If you do like cooking, it’s truly a food wonderland – the fresh game, fish, produce and other ingredients are like no other and will surely inspire you to push your established culinary boundaries. But even if you can’t tell the difference between a frying pan and a crème brulee torch, the market will delight you. There are plenty of exotic prepared foods, and free samples on offer at almost every stall, offered up by friendly workers who are passionate about their products and who won’t take ‘no’ for an answer. Indeed, there’s so much to try that you can enjoy what amounts to a free lunch, although I’ve never known anyone to be able to hold back from purchasing at least a few tempting tidbits.

Our browsing done – I was now supplied with a giant piece of salmon, a couple of bunches of organic asparagus and a very inexpensive kilogram of baby new potatoes - Laura and I bought wraps full of delicious roast and settled in to enjoy our lunch in the sunny grounds of the Southwark Cathedral, where almost every inch of grass was already occupied by other diners who were sighing blissfully as they chewed their way through their own lunches.

And dinner? Thanks to Borough Market, my guests left at 3:30 in the morning, they left not a scrap of food behind, and they left all of my mismatched plates stacked in the dishwasher. I think that can be chalked up as a success.

BOROUGH MARKET; 8 Southwark Street, London

Against The Elements: Dining Out In London

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 11:10:00 GMT

Photo: Richard Holden

Like all newcomers to London, I was astonished on the first sunny spring day when I arrived way back in 2004 to see that my local park (Clapham Common) had be overrun with people who were dressed as if they thought they were the beach. "What’s going on?" I said to my flatmates. "Don’t these people know that it is only 15 degrees? Where are their shirts?"

After five years of this, however, I understand: sunshine is at a premium even in the most summery months in this grey city, and thus at the first sight of a beam through the clouds Londoners will do whatever they can to soak it up. And this is particularly reflected in the city’s approach to al fresco dining: on days when any self-respecting continental (and Southern) European would be indoors, possibly by an open fire, Londoners will brave low temperature and even the occasional burst of raindrops in order to enjoy a drink or a meal in the fresh air.

Nowhere is this more apparent than in my part of East London, a place that was not designed with outdoor dining in mind but which, with gentrification, is now dotted with tables planted wherever possible.

In London, Life’s a Beach…With a Little bit of Imagination

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Thu, 04 Aug 2011 10:59:00 GMT

Summer is up and cities across the globe have planted palm trees and trucked in tons of sand to urban riverfronts to create the feeling of a lazy day at the shore. Urban beaches are a hit and Momondo guides you to our favourites.

Beach Life in London

Photo: Mrlerone

This year marks my seventh summer in London; the seventh time that I have chosen to spend the hottest months in a place where it’s impossible to pack away your winter clothes for the season because it’s quite likely that you will find it necessary to wear a cashmere jumper at least a couple of times in August. Being a passionate lover of sunshine, at some point at the height of every summer I find myself shivering at a table at a sidewalk café, clutching a mug of tea for warmth and thinking, ‘What is wrong with this place?’ But the rest of the time I find that making the most of the limited sunshine on London’s beaches is enough to keep me here for another summer.

‘London’s beaches?’ you are thinking, ‘isn’t that illogical?’ And you are right: this is a land-locked city. But innovative Londoners laugh in the face of geography: just because nature hasn’t given us a beach, not exactly, doesn’t mean that we can’t approximate the seaside lifestyle. It just requires a bit of imagination. In the past, some witty entrepreneurs have dumped piles of sand in parking lots to create urban beaches, but with no signs thus far this year of these grown-up sand piles, Londoners are looking elsewhere for beach living in their neighbourhoods.

My Favourite Autumn Events In London

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Fri, 02 Sep 2011 07:02:00 GMT

Photo: Adam Tinworth

In many respects, London comes in to its own in the autumn: no one expects it to be warm anymore, but with plenty of layered dressing and a sturdy umbrella at the ready, there’s a lot to be said for the joys that the city has to offer during the crisper months. Below are three events in London that I won’t be missing this season; be sure to check them out if you’re in town.

London's Top Five for Book Lovers

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Mon, 12 Apr 2010 07:00:00 GMT

Photo: Paolo Márgari

London is a most literary of cities, and this is reflected by the diverse range of bookshops that stud the city. While the dominant chain, Waterstones, tends to have the most comprehensive selection (and carry lots of copies of my book, which is reason enough to go) I always find that it’s the smaller, independent shops that are the most fun in which to lose an afternoon to browsing for additions to my library. Every bookish Londoner has his or her favourite bookshops: here are five of mine.

Getting Stirred And Shaken In London's Best Cocktail Bars

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Fri, 18 Feb 2011 15:02:00 GMT

Photo: Istolethetv

No trip to London is complete without experiencing the classic pints-and-carpet pub culture, but there’s also something to be said for putting on your gladrags and trying out some of the city’s most chic cocktails, so that when you wake up in the morning still wearing those gladrags and nursing a hell of a hangover, you’ll know that you’ve done it in style. Here are five places that I go to for yummy drinks and remarkable (if not always entirely salubrious) atmosphere.

Breaks From Your City Break: Best day trips near London

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Tue, 05 Oct 2010 13:30:00 GMT

Brighton Carnival Photo: WordRidden

Yes, you could spend the rest of your life in London and never run out of new things to see and do, but if you fancy venturing beyond the capital, there’s a sheer plethora of amazing jaunts to take beyond the city limits for a day-long change of pace. Below are my favourite day trips to places just beyond London.

The 5 Hottest Tea (s)pots in London Town

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 07:30:00 GMT

The English Tea Room at Brown's Hotel

Afternoon tea is one thing that London does better than anywhere else. Yes, it’s a bold claim, but I’m certain that it’s a correct one. What are the crucial ingredients? Tea that’s made with real leaves, not nasty bags; pastries made on-site; gorgeous surroundings where you’re encouraged to linger. And yes, a glass of champagne if you’re so inclined. Here are my five favourite places for tea in London – no trip to the city is complete without a stop at one.

Hot Date, London-style in Soho’s Winding Streets

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Fri, 27 Jan 2012 13:55:00 GMT

Photo: MarkHillary

So, you need to impress a special someone with a big night out in London? I recommend you head to Soho – it’s central, it’s buzzing pretty much every night of the week, and there’s a vast range of places to go to suit whatever mood you’re trying to set for the evening – romantic, sexy, energetic. I have delicately selected my favourite spots for a top night out with the object of your affections in Soho – for cocktails, dinner, theatre, and then two choices for an after-theatre drink. If this tour de romance doesn’t do the trick, you’re probably not meant for each other...

Brits Refine Own Invention: The 5 Best Sandwiches in London

Jean Hannah Edelstein — Tue, 18 Jan 2011 10:41:00 GMT

Photo: gtrwndr87

Legend has it that sandwiches were invented in England by a hungry aristocrat - the Earl of Sandwich - who asked for his dinner to be made portable so that he wouldn’t have to abandon his card game. Anyone who’s ever grabbed lunch in a British train station, however, knows that we don’t always do right by the sandwich. Good news, however – if you stay well away from those plastic train station triangles you can dine lavishly on satisfying sandwiches throughout London. Below are my top five picks: