Cicerone

MY NIGHT OUT WITH BEAUTIFUL KIDS AND A STRANGLED CAT

Frederique van Staalen — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:50:00 GMT

My darling and I had a night off so we decided to go out and, instead of dropping into something familiar, visit something new. Not that Kamer 401 opened recently – it’s just that I don’t normally frequent bars in Amsterdam, but rather spend my time in cafés. As I later concluded, there’s a good reason for this.

Intrigued by the name, I found Kamer 401 on Marnixstraat 401 to be a pretty dull place where a homogeneous crowd of students and beautiful kids meets. It was all easy - the lounge music, the relaxed interior, the overall ambiance, but for me a bar should be slightly different. Thus after a couple of drinks we choose to look for something less tedious elsewhere.

Knowing the building only as the former headquarters of the newspaper I used to read (de Volkskrant), I was pretty curious when I heard that since the editorial department moved, a restaurant and club opened in their former canteen. So after the dull evening in Kamer 401, I thought it a perfect occasion to sample this new place on Wibautstraat 150. Some people compare this street with the Karl Marx Allee in Berlin. I don’t completely agree, but it’s true both streets have heavy traffic and ugly buildings – including Canvas op de zevende (on the 7th).

As the name indicates, Canvas op de zevende, is located on the seventh and top floor. While I was walking around in the entrance hall searching for the lift I heard shocked mutterings: “she did it herself… she strangled her cat with her bare hands”. Not much of a hero I didn’t dare to have a look at the murdered animal even though it was supposed to be art. Finally in the lift, with evident traces of a cat’s existence (food containers) I reflected on what next in the name of arts should be killed.

Photo: Bravoure Media

After this dodgy experience we arrived on the seventh floor. I stepped into a space with grey concrete, graffiti on the walls, vintage sofas, white tables and chairs, and a marvelous view. My first impression was that I had stumbled into a garage - a place where teenagers have their hangout - but the second glance convinced me I had to stay a little more. The interior decorator has left Canvas to deliberately like an off location. That seems a huge trend in Amsterdam, but since I am living in Berlin it displays a watery copy of the original.

Canvas' terrace on a summer day Photo: Pr1001

However I liked the mixed crowd, the great cocktails, and the heavenly view. On our night the terrace was closed but the windows enabled a panoramic view over the city.

CHINATOWN: RELIGIOUS CONTEMPLATION, GENUINE FAKE AND THE BEST SNACKING IN TOWN

Frederique van Staalen — Thu, 13 Nov 2008 14:45:00 GMT

Photo: Henryhill125

I used to live around the corner of the Zeedijk, the main street of Amsterdam’s Chinatown. From the window of our tiny apartment I could see the St Nicolaas church and the bridge that tourists pass while getting into town. Nine out of ten made a photo from that bridge, and the recurrent flashes of reflecting blue lit up our room and reminded us of the wealth we could have made if we had possession of those image rights.

Photo: Bartvanpoll

During daytime, life in Chinatown is just as you’d find in a sleepy little provincial town - Chinese women rushing down the streets, muttering incomprehensible phrases, old ladies looking out of their windows, silence and boredom everywhere.

The district is a puzzling mix - authentic restaurants next to crap ones, next to hairdressers, shops, eastern massage, and so on – all existing harmoniously side by side. On the Zeedijk (literally: dike against the sea) the Thai snack bar Bird has achieved a sort of cult status. The place serves delicious food and is a good option when you don’t have time to cook, but it’s extremely crowded and after years of ongoing success they are no longer so kind and attentive.

Therefore I was really happy that the former cook of the Bird started a place for herself called O-Cha. The Thai ladies at O-Cha seem to have such fun while working that their chatting and laughing is more than contagious. Instead of the nerve killing experience at Bird, a quick bite at O-Cha or something to go will guarantee I leave the place in a much better mood.

Another institution on Zeedijk is the Chinese restaurant Nam Kee. This place has served as the décor of a novel, a film, and (I can’t help it), my own imagination as well. Every time I pass Nam Kee and have a look at the exposed animals hanging in their windows my imagination runs high speed, but since I am vegetarian I bet you don’t want to know more...

Although I often can’t get rid of the feeling that Chinatown is all fake or artificial, I know it’s not that simple. For instance, the Temple may look at first glance like a dummy from an advertisement, but it is indeed a place for religious contemplation.

Things are less complicated at Wah Nam Hong - this Chinese supermarket on Geldersekade 90-92 attracts me like Pandora’s Box without the bad surprises. My last treasure: perfect scarlet sachets decorated with golden Chinese signs.

Go further: Read John Rambow's guide to his favourite places in New York's Chinatown.

WARMOESMARKT: GENTRIFICATION IN THE SUPERMARKET

Frederique van Staalen — Wed, 05 Nov 2008 13:00:00 GMT

The ‘shop around the corner’ is back! It’s so obvious that even I see them pop up everywhere in town. Not like in the old days with a clumsy stock of lifesavers and other alibi food, but now as a stylish place where products for sale are chosen with a curator’s care.

Related to this phenomenon is the increasing focus on regional products and cuisines. Recently I read in the newspaper that members of the parliament demanded Dutch food made of local products during state banquets instead of having products flown in from all parts the world.

The closer the better has become a mantra so vegetables, dairy products, fruit, bread coming from a village not far from town suddenly are immensely popular.

A perfect illustration of this trend is the Warmoesmarkt on Warmoesstraat 135, a classy bio-supermarket in the red-light district. Andy Verdonk, is one of the initiators behind Warmoesmarkt that opened in the summer 2008 and he explained the concept to me. 80 percent of the assortment comes from Amsterdam’s backyard or other Dutch regions and the remaining 20 percent (products such as wine, oil and balsamico) comes from Europe. Andy, a professional chef himself, owns one of the farms (Anna Haen) which supplies the shop.

Instead of cozy decorations and studied arrangements, a noticeable simple interior indicates that Warmoesmarkt is all about food. Although plain with wooden crates and neon lights, the ambiance in Warmoesmarkt is warm and friendly.

A volière at the end of the shop and a little herbarium, where strange looking mushrooms are cultivated, invite the curious visitor to linger around in the shop just a bit longer.

At the moment guests can enjoy five different Dutch cheeses (of course) at the workshop table. But I hope that in the near future the people behind Warmoesmarkt will realize their plan to offer take-away and arrange picnics – all with the delicious bread and pastries from the nearby De Bakkerswinkel.

Not only does the Warmoesmarkt fit perfectly into Amsterdam’s mayor Job Cohen’s master plan to ennoble De Wallen (the red-light district) once again. It is also a genuine enrichment for the neighborhood.

DE BAKKERSWINKEL, Warmoesstraat 69, Amsterdam

IS THERE ANY ESCAPE FROM SODOM AND GOMORRAH?

Frederique van Staalen — Thu, 30 Oct 2008 09:02:00 GMT

Photo: 800X600

Sex and the City: a dream combination. As everybody over six knows, sex sells and for quite a long time now the erotic industry has been an important feature of Amsterdam’s reputation. Even an enlightened journalist like D, who I know in Berlin, was astonished to see what the shops so frankly offer in their windows.

The Red Light District (de wallen), in fact a very picturesque part of the city, often causes its inhabitants nausea. Filth everywhere, the sleaziest characters you can imagine, women behind their windows, the drunks, the junks – they altogether make out this inferno.

A friend of mine, who organizes the best New Year’s parties, lives in the wallen. So every year after the party, dragging two little girls with me in the middle of the night avoiding disgusting blokes and suspect liquids on the street, I can’t help thinking: is there an escape from this living hell?

It’s hard to believe but it’s true. We have had a farewell party and the day after, a friend took me to Blauw aan de Wal, a restaurant in a former warehouse, which is the neighboring house to our party location. Only a small sign, I obviously failed to notice, shows its existence.

Tucked away, a little porch leads to an abundantly green patio decorated with small white tables that are lit by candlelights. Again, it’s the light that gives this place its heavenly atmosphere keeping in mind I had just left the street with the neonlights and hordes of tourists. I almost felt a foreigner in my own city, since it’s seldom you’ll find such old fashioned, decent, warm and professional service I somehow associate with books like The Remains of the Day.

Moreover the food and wine were superb, delicate in their choice and quality. To quote the owner, one day a really good meal the next day water and bread. Therefore it will not be a cheap dinner but for a night in heaven I would be willing to pay the double.

BLAUW AAN DE WAL, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 99, Amsterdam

JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM: TOO BAD I AM NOT A CHILD ANYMORE

Frederique van Staalen — Sun, 26 Oct 2008 08:00:00 GMT

I was really looking forward to this weekend, but then the babysitter cancelled, all my friends pretended they were extremely busy and even the grandparents suddenly decided to have a life of their own. So what was supposed to be a romantic weekend had all the characteristics of a nightmare – a city trip with the kids! I had to forget about museums, skip all my shopping fantasies and even worse: nightlife would be over at 9 p.m.

Luckily it didn’t turned out as bad as I feared, cause exploring Amsterdam with kids can be fun as well!

I went with my daughter (6) to see an exhibition at the Jewish Historical Museum (Joods Historisch Museum). In the basement, she kept her fingers to her nose because she said it smelled badly. So after 5 minutes I was ready to leave but luckily a guard prevented us from leaving before we had visited the children’s museum.

In a museum, my kids are trained with Prussian discipline and not only because of their East German papa. Now that museums all over the world seem to have discovered the market of education just waiting for them to make a profit, children museums and galleries open everywhere. Usually, there isn’t any mentionable difference between these and ordinary museums, meaning that our children are encouraged not to touch anything that catches their curiosity.

Therefore the Jewish museum in Amsterdam is such a relief: Children visit the exhibition,which is conceived as a visit to the Hollander’s home (a Jewish family) and they are very welcome guests. This gives the children a unique opportunity to explore Jewish culture, pose questions, touch, draw, compare - just name it.

It is so simple and yet so brilliant in its concept and design, and I also learned a lot about Jewish life.

Instead of the traditional guard observing the guest suspiciously, we were invited into the kitchen to make the Challah, the traditional Sabbath bread. While baking, the kids posed a thousand questions about kosher rules and they all were seriously answered.

Therefore don’t have a bad conscience, just visit the collection of the Jewish museum in the old synagogue yourself and leave your kids exploring the place on their own: they will love it.

To increase your credits there is a hard-to-find playground nearby: Speeltuin de Waag on Oude Schans 10. Even when closed, you can enter through the fence as many others have done before you.

JOODS HISTORISCH MUSEUM, Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1; Amsterdam

www.jhm.nl

Go further: Read about Henry having fun at Bethnal Green Museum of Childhood here.

GARTINE: HIGHT TEA, FINE ART AND VILLAGE-LIFE IN THE CITY

Frederique van Staalen — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 11:00:00 GMT

With passionate reviews in magazines like Elle or jubilant critics from Amsterdam’s most feared food critic Johannes van Dam (the one who gives notes to restaurants that they put in their windows) I was quite curious to find out what Gartine had in store. Furthermore my most attractive single friend planned her romantic rendez-vous in Gartine. For that reason alone, it must be something special I thought. And in a way it definitely is.

In this part of town between the Rokin and the Kalverstraat, the pedestrian zone, it’s really a pleasant thing that you finally have a decent alternative to pizza slices or disgusting sandwiches. Hidden in a small alley, Gartine specializes in breakfast, lunch and high tea made with ingredients from the owner’s own vegetable garden. I had a delicious breakfast with wentelteefjes (French toast) and home made jam.

Being myself a fan of French painting from the eighteenth-century and having a soft spot for Watteau and his Fêtes Galantes, I was impressed by the choice of decoration: Nicolas Lancret, Le Déjeuner de jambon. Frankly they hit my taste, served such good food, collected their china on several flee- and antic markets and yet Gartine will not be one of my favorite spots. Because it’s too small, too rustic - almost provincial.

Actually it’s utterly unfair. It’s just that I can’t stand village atmosphere and maybe my expectations were a bit overstretched. However, since a good breakfast place is worth gold - especially one which boosts your energy for the rest of the day – forget about my anti-village neurosis and enjoy slow food par excellence.

GARTINE; Taksteeg 7, Amsterdam

GALERIE AMSTERDAM: THE START OF YOUR ART COLLECTION?

Frederique van Staalen — Thu, 16 Oct 2008 09:29:00 GMT

If you, like me, always dream about getting your own piece of art, checking the art market for your favorite artist or even better, hoping you’ll make a sensational discovery like finding a Jawlensky on a flea market. Then there are just a few options in Amsterdam you should consider.

Inside Foam. Photo: Nicole Blommers

For instance Foam Editions (part of the Foam museum, which I have mentioned before), is one of the best places in the Netherlands to purchase payable photos. At your disposal is a selection of signed editions from young talented international photographers and occasionally works from artists currently exhibiting at Foam. The people working at Foam Editions are highly competent and surely very friendly.

If you’re more into painting, sculptures or other three dimensional objects and without a too prefixed taste try Galerie Amsterdam, which is part of the Kunstwerkplaats on Lutmastraat 181-183. This center for outsider art - often called Art Brut - was recommended by my social responsible friend Sara. She brought me here and I have to confess that the art she has bought at the gallery suits wonderful in her lovely decorated apartment. Since the work represented by Galerie Amsterdam is rather miscellaneous not only in techniques but in quality as well, you’ll really need time to explore the works in stock.

For me the paintings bring back recollections of the Collection de l’Art Brut in Lausanne, and I have to confess that I’m not too fond of for instance Jean Dubuffet. But I was certainly struck by the ceramics. The vases and plates beautifully decorated with animal or floral motives are truly worth collecting.

For those really in to budget every Friday night in Galerie Amsterdam Café van de Kook provides a 3 course menu for ca. 10 Euro. Also there is the charming restaurant and traiteur Ratatouille on Ceintuurbaan 181 just a few streets away. Here you can drink a coffee on the terrace, take delicacies to go or have a rather intimate diner.

LOCAL VIEW MELISSA MALDONADO'S BERLIN

Frederique van Staalen — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 14:11:00 GMT

Melissa Maldonado is a dancer originally from Queens, New York. When love brought her to Berlin, she very quickly adapted to the city’s ongoing opportunities. She’s always on the move, dividing her time between earning money in an art gallery or giving children ballet and flamenco classes, as well as developing a career as a dancer and choreographer. She is currently working on her next piece to be performed for Inwent at a conference on women’s rights. This is her Berlin.

How long did it take you to discover Berlin’s beauty and which places you think are really beautiful here?

It’s difficult to discover beauty in cities, where concrete generally overshadows nature. But from the moment I arrived in Berlin I couldn’t help but be amazed by how green it was. Not only does nearly every street have trees, bushes or flowers, but there are also parks and gardens everywhere.

Summer at Wannsee Photo: Ax11

Berlin is also full of wonderful surprises like the Pfaueninsel, Britzer Garten and Wannsee. It’s a city that offers everything that a major metropolis would offer and then so much more.

Berlin gets quite cold and dark in winter. Where do you go to escape the grayness and keep your high spirit?

This depends on whether or not I’m hungry. I have two favorite and very different cafes in the city. Olivia, a very small café/chocolate shop in Friedrichshain, has the best tarts and cakes and amazing hot chocolate. If I want something more hearty, I go to Al Hamra at Helmholzplatz in Prenzlauer Berg. They have the best Halumi salad in the city, not to mention falafel, hummus…

If I’m not hungry, then I enjoy roaming around any of the major museums (they’re all free on Thursdays after 8pm) or galleries in Mitte.

Are there any places in this city which impresses a girl from New York City?

Yes! There are so many places that impress me! I love the canals that run through Kreuzberg with waterfront restaurants and cafes and people lounging on blankets when the weather is right.

Landwehrkanal Photo: Mikkelbreum

And then there are the weekend markets with fresh fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, flowers and so much more. And not to forget, the great boutiques with one-of-a kind clothing that would be completely unaffordable in NY, but is totally affordable here.

As a dancer you have a disciplined daily routine. Do you have a favorite place where you go after an exhausting training or to celebrate a premiere?

After an exhausting day of rehearsals or training I go straight to my bathtub for a muscle-relaxing bath. When I really want to indulge, I go to Die Wohfuehler on Kollwitzstrasse 75 for a massage or to Olivin, a quaint but very comfortable and relaxing sauna on Schoenhauser Allee. After a premiere I spend as much time as I deem necessary at the after party, generally organized by the venue or the choreographer, then I go to my bathtub. Most dancers will tell you that the best celebration is a hot bath and a massage!

There are many hip and trendy clubs in town. Where do you go dancing till dawn?

Surprisingly enough, I’m not a huge fan of going out dancing. Many people think that dancers like to go out dancing, but this is purely a myth. We do it all day, and that’s enough. If I want to spend a night out on the town, I prefer to hit up some of the great bars in the city. Goldfisch on Grünberger Strasse 67 in Friedrichshain is small and cozy. And, they make the best pina coladas!

Zu Mir oder Zu Dir Photo: Renaatje

If I want something a bit more lively then I go to Zu Mir oder Zu Dir on Lychener Strasse. I am also a huge fan of any bar with a football table!

You also like opera, but if you are not in the mood for a Wagner Opera which cultural event do you visit?

Although I love the German opera for its modern take on classical pieces, there are so many other wonderful and more contemporary venues with great performances. The Goldener Saal at Tacheles, though somewhat gritty and rough, plays host to some of the best choreographers and dancers working in the city. Sophiensaele and Dock 11 also offer emerging choreographers the opportunity to showcase their work.

Personally I don’t find Berliners particularly welcoming. What are your recipes to cope with them?

A good sense of humor and lots of traveling! And that’s all it really takes. My experience is that Berliners tend to get a bit more edgy as the temperatures drop, so that’s when I book flights to Cologne or anywhere in the South, where the people are generally a bit more welcoming! But, if I can’t get away, then laughter is the best medicine. What else can you do when someone yells at you for not having a bike light, honks a car horn because you’re crossing the street too slowly or nearly knocks you down when racing to the just opened cash register. A smile goes a long way here!

Go further:

Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris

Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London

Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris

Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London

Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul

Local view: Adam Kuban's New York

BAZAR AMSTERDAM: NO CULTURAL BIAS

Frederique van Staalen — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 13:09:00 GMT

There used to be three good reasons to leave the city and plan a trip to our rival town Rotterdam. First of all my dear friend T. lives there. Second the Boijmans Van Beuningen Collection and finally Bazar.

Approximately two years ago the owner of Bazar in Rotterdam decided to expand his empire to the capital. Since I always, when in Rotterdam, have lunch or whatever in Bazar, I was curious to see if Bazar Amsterdam had the same charm that would make a visit to the original restaurant redundant in the future. To emphasize the competitive element, I invited my dear friend T. who happens to be the general manager of Hotel Bazar in Rotterdam.

In maybe one of the liveliest streets in Amsterdam, the Albert Cuypstraat, where the famous market is daily held, Bazar houses in a former church. The beautiful fusion of different oriental elements -decorated tiles everywhere, even the toilets are cramped with red floral motives- gives you the feeling you’re lost in a palace from 1001 nights.

What I like so much about Bazar, this airy restaurant on two floors, is their ability to mix successfully. Besides its decorative combinations, I enjoy, the wonderful ambiance made out of the difficult balance between public and private. The kitchen serves dishes mainly from North Africa and the Middle East suiting Bazar’s Credo meet the world brilliantly.

Compared to Amsterdam standards, the food is a bargain especially breakfast is a good deal. Not a conventional one I agree but with Turkish yogurt, Algerian thousand-hole-crêpes with butter and honey, oriental bread and fresh fruit to name but a few items, you won’t be hungry for a very long time I bet.

To be honest I can’t think of anything against this vivid colorful place but as I’m quite fond of dear T. I’ll have to continue visiting Bazar Rotterdam.

Bazar; Albert Cuypstraat 182; Amsterdam

A MOVING BEACH: BLIJBURG AAN ZEE

Frederique van Staalen — Thu, 25 Sep 2008 13:30:00 GMT

Happy beach is what they call Blijberg, the first real city beach in Amsterdam open since the summer of 2003. Maybe it doesn't have the sophisticated flair of Paris Plage or the glamour of a historical site as the Monbijou strandbar in Berlin, but at least you can swim here in the outstretched Ijsselmeer. Also different to a city beach in the classical manner Blijburg stays open all year.

Now moved to the new location some 400 meters further away from the original one, it’s not less cheerful but what is going to happen after 2009 to this wonderful beach pavilion nobody knows for sure. Locals and frequent beachgoers started a filmproject to force the municipality to make Blijburg stay but in a small city with big housing problems building grounds are rare... therefore you better go there before it’s too late!

Photo by ElCabron

Now that summer is slowly coming to an end and everybody, who’s not blessed to live in a southern country, is cherishing the last sunrays Blijburg is the perfect place to spend a sunny day. By now, all the noisy kids will be back at school and their desperate mums will be transformed into nice city girls again, so you can fully enjoy the relaxed mood which reigns here. But even unsunny days will have their charm. I like the feeling of a beach in the old fashioned way: not too tidy, wind and sails everywhere and a far reaching horizon.

Photo by BasL

Fridays and Saturdays are traditionally party nights with different kinds of music and bands; for instance the Generations of Love Festival, this summer. On Sundays, breakfast is accompanied with live classical piano music and from 17.00 - and if you bring your instrument, you can join the Blijburg jam. The Kitchen mostly works with organic products and besides breakfast and finger food, you will find national golden oldies like a bammetje hagelslag or drie in de pan which I last ate when I was a kid.

Blijburg aan Zee; Bert Haanstrakade 2004 ; Amsterdam

MY FAVOURITE MONDAY MORNING: THE HUNT FOR THE PERFECT PIECE

Frederique van Staalen — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:02:00 GMT

Admit it: most earthly pleasures are linked with envy. So when everybody else, exhausted from the weekend, has to go to work, some lucky ones can visit the Noordermarket.

Between the Korte Prinsengracht and the beginning of the Prinsengracht you’ll find a beautiful triangular square lined by the church (Noorderkerk) nice cafés and restaurants. The Noordermarkt was named after this church, which dates from the seventeenth century.

Here, every Monday morning, you can see people (mostly women) cycling or walking from the bridges, laughing, and flocking to this little spot. What is so much fun about this market that it has become a magnet for people over the years?

Aside from the envy factor, it may have something to do with the feeling that there is always somebody you know around, and indeed there is. Last time, I lost my little daughter Prune and started panicking. Soon after a woman found her, and as I looked her in the face I recognized my old roommate Roline.

King Louie/Petit Louie

It's amazing as well that some market sellers have stayed there over the years. One of my favourites is the King Louie/Petit Louie booth, selling women’s and kids’ clothing from different collections.

Exota

The labels are cut out, but if you find this a problem they have a shop Exota Hartenstraat 10 where they sell the current collection. My most recent Monday treasure: the curtains of my youth, original 'Nijntje' (miffy) from the seventies.

Cafe WINKEL

To complete the morning, join the queue of cafe WINKEL (Noordermarkt 43) for a warm piece of apple pie. The rumor goes that they bake the best apple pie in town. I deserve to be stoned at once for revealing this myth, but actually the pie is delicious and don’t we all like to believe in fairytales?

On Saturdays, a part of the Noordermarkt joins the organic food market, but it doesn't have the same dazzling atmosphere given that for most hardworking people are off from work and there isn’t a soul who will envy you.

Noordermarket: Mondays market 9 -13. Saturdays: Organic food market 9-16.00

PARADISE FOUND AT HUIS MARSEILLE

Frederique van Staalen — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 07:51:00 GMT

We Dutch are in a way obsessed with space. The Netherlands are the most densely populated country in Europe, and it’s impossible to find a decent apartment in Amsterdam if you’re not kin of Croesus. Because of this, I have developed a certain kind of spacio-mania: and than I found this museum.

Of course one can argue about the definition of a museum but most people since the nineteenth century would agree that, besides its conservational and collecting tasks, a museum should be open to public.

While there is no problem visiting Huis Marseille, it is less trouble-free to try and write about it or even photograph this lovely foundation. For me that’s exactly the point, is it really “open to the public” when only an excusive circle of well- informed culture dilettantes know of the existence of this collection?

At Huis Marseille they think this site is too commercial to their philosophy and they would prefer to not be mentioned. But I can’t withhold this heavenly place from you, so I’ll describe it without any reserve.

Huis Marseille, the first photo museum in Amsterdam, is located on Keizersgracht 401 in a canal house with the same name. After passing the reception it’s unlikely you’ll meet a lot of visitors. Hues of green, grey marble and honey colored wooden floors impressed me so much that I kind of forgot the current exhibition. A staircase leads into the backhouse, the most interesting part of this marvelous house.

Nothing is more appropriate to the garden room than Jacob de Wit’s Heavenly concept, an original ceiling painting from the eighteenth century. Viewing the garden with its ancient trees, a feeling of calm and serenity came over me. The best part is that you can enter the garden because they have put tables and chairs outside. So with a coffee or tea from the museum's 'media kitchen' you can pretend, since nobody else will be there, that you are sitting in your own garden.

If you’re eager for the city again, visit the nearby Cafe Walem on Keizersgracht 449, one of the first Grand cafés in Amsterdam. If you still have some energy left for art, drop in to Foam a neighboring photo museum (Keizersgracht 609) in the conventional way.

"THINKING OF HOLLAND....."

Frederique van Staalen — Tue, 02 Sep 2008 08:42:00 GMT

Thinking of Holland

The above quote from a well-known poem of Hendrik Marsman is the name of a brand-new shop in Amsterdam. Dorret Griffioen, the owner of the shop, had simply had it with all the junk that ordinary souvenir shops were selling. She believed that Holland, with all its internationally acclaimed designers and tourists alike, deserved so much better.

Thinking of Holland

The Passengers Terminal on Piet Heinkade 23, where all big cruise boats harbor, suited her strategy. In a posh interior, designed by Thomas Cruijsen, you’ll find several items that’ll remind you of Holland. Though not especially conceived as souvenirs, these high quality objects often have a twist and provoke memories of the Low Countries. Unfortunately 'Zealand sweetheart' doesn’t belong to the shop but you’ll definitely find related jewelry or motives from her attire.

Droog

Thinking of Dutch Design, I immediately think of Droog. A design label and platform for designers. Droog meaning dry, a reproach we Dutch are repeatedly blamed for, produces unpretentious, funny but functional objects.

Droog

In a historical building in the Staalstraat, Droog established its flag store and a gallery where young designers exhibit their creations. Here you can wander around, marveling a table, a kitchen or enter the lovely garden. For me, it feels more like visiting the new apartment of a friend than dwelling in a design shop. I always sneak in to see if they still have the big hare in their collection. It’s such a pity that my floor isn’t roomy enough to have such an opulent doormat.

DREAMING ON THE AMSTEL: AMSTERDAM BOAT & BREAKFAST

Frederique van Staalen — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 13:51:00 GMT

As a result of the omnipresence of the water, Amsterdam is even more beautiful seen from a water perspective. Recently somebody mentioned me that Daan and Jasmijn Stoelinga were hiring out a tiny motorboat for Boat&Breakfast purposes.

Sheltered by Daan’s house boat, the little white boat lays for anchor on the Amstel, the river that gave the city its name. In fact, at this top location, with the town hall and Opera (Stopera) in your backyard and the Waterlooplein at a stone’s throw away, you are right in the middle of the cultural heart of the city and from your private terrace you have a view over the most beautiful part of the river.

Puccini

Just across the bridge, the place to drink your morning coffee is Puccini on Staalstraat 17.

Personally I can hardly imagine anything more romantic: just me and my love in a tiny boat on the big river. Not owning a boat myself, I always enjoy the opportunity to accompany friends on a boat trip. Feeling the wind, sensing freedom, everything on the water becomes pure leisure. We often take a picnic with us, but normally we are too captivated by the water to climb ashore. For myself, the water is to filthy to feel tempted to swim, but lots of people go for a dive in the Ij channel or another muddy canal.

Grimburgwal

Before going home we make a little farewell tour, always passing my most beloved canal Grimburgwal, still unspoiled by city life. At night, when the streets are softly illuminated, it’s hard to choose which way to walk because touched by the light everything develops a certain splendor.

Café de Engelbewaarder

You can have your slaapmutsje, the famous last drink, in Café de Engelbewaarder on Kloveniersburgwal 59. Although with your cheeks rosy from the wind and sunshine, almost any café would do to prolong this relaxed mood.

DON'T GO WITH THE FLOW GO FOR JOJO

Frederique van Staalen — Thu, 21 Aug 2008 04:02:00 GMT

Traveling with your sweetheart can become quite a challenge in a city full of wonderful shops and nice boutiques. In the neighborhood called De Negen Straatjes (Nine Little Streets), a much beloved shopping area in the centre of Amsterdam, you’ll find no mainstream stores but all highly individual shops. To prevent a quarrel that would spoil the trip, go for JoJo on Huidenstraat 23 right in the middle of De Negen Straatjes.

JoJo

My darling once went there and bought (without me) a cashmere coat that made him look middle aged. Since they don’t allow returns, we had a high amount of credit to spend and soon became regulars. Eventually he bought a gorgeous suit there and of course we got married.

JoJo

For anyone who is always looking for a Canali shirt or a suit from Zegna but unable to afford it, you’ll find it at JOJO for a bargain if you are lucky enough. In addition to selling exclusive Italian brands, there are English shoes and hats, vintage shirts, silk or cashmere socks and different kinds of scarves - all the bits and pieces of a gentleman’s wardrobe are part of their stock.

Laura Dols

Of course you should peep into Laura Dols on Wolvenstraat 7 because it’s always fun to dress up like a movie star, and don’t bother if you’ve forgotten your toothbrush - De Witte Tandenwinkel on Runstraat 5 will fullfill your kinkiest wishes concerning dental hygiene. For me, ever since Freelance left the city, Antonia By Yvette (Gasthuismolensteeg 16-18) is the best place for shoes. They sell for instance Sonia Rykiel, Spanish designers and have their own in-house label.