Now that most of Amsterdam’s major museums are in the middle of extensive renovations, the little ones not only have to cope with masses of tourists but also simultaneously offer an interesting exhibition program. The Rembrandt Huis, home of the painter from 1639-1656 has mastered both requirements. 

I like the idea that Rembrandt lived like most privileged Amsterdammers in a house where you have to take the stairs constantly since every floor offers space for only one or two rooms. In the centre of the house an old inconvenient wooden staircase winds from cellar to attic. Little tiles placed above the floor recall times without vacuum cleaner, when cleaning meant broom and water. Those beautiful tiles were for more than decoration - they also prevented the walls getting drenched.

Although poor Rembrandt went bankrupt and lost almost everything he owned, including this house, it’s exactly this knowledge that makes history so tangible at this little museum. Observing his private collection, I suddenly realized that all of these artifacts - coins, pieces of antique statues, beautiful patterned and colorful butterflies, china (extremely expensive at the time), strange skeletons, shells and corals (before they became a huge rage in the 18th century) were the sort of things normally found in the collection of a tremendously wealthy man, and not among the belongings of a painter. It’s fascinating to study the kind of objects he assembled, so diverse and strange that they offer a glimpse in Rembrandt’s daily world. For me it’s dazzling to observe this seventeenth-century microcosm - those pieces bring back history far more vividly than the whole house with all its furniture.

Another draw of the Rembrandt house is the diversity of shows that they organize. Often related to seventeenth-century artists or subjects, these charming exhibitions often focus on small details. That’s refreshing after too many blockbuster shows exploiting the Dutch “Golden Age.” I wasn’t too thrilled about the current exhibition 'Jacob Backer, Rembrandt’s Opposite', but that had probably more to do with the misleading title.

A final feature at the museum - unrivaled in the world - is the almost complete collection (260 of 290) of Rembrandt’s etchings. A changing selection is on permanent display. Given that Rembrandt’s fame depended largely on his graphic work, it’s a must-see for every art lover.

MUSEUM HET REMBRANDTHUIS; Jodenbreestraat 4, Amsterdam

'Jacob Backer, Rembrandt’s Opposite' until 22.02.2009