Badeschiff: Chilling On The Spree

Berlin / Visitar
en por Cicerone /  Frederique van Staalen, 20. Jan 2009

A few days ago, winter finally took over in Berlin and brought its snow and perishing cold. From Thursday to Saturday all the kids were gone, spending their weekend somewhere else. M. suggested the sauna. Sitting in a tremendously hot, damp place is not exactly my idea of leisure, but it was gorgeous.


Photo: Manuela.Martin

Every year in November the Badeschiff on the river Spree transforms from a swimming pool into a Sauna boat. We had a rather adventurous journey getting there, but if you head for the Arena you shouldn’t have any problems. In the last few yards walking between old fabric halls, which were bathed in warm red light, a feeling of suspense and bewilderment came over me. This was enhanced by shouting coming from the Arena edifice. Because the darkness sets in so early now, you can see the Badeschiff from a distance - illuminated and floating like three giant cocoons on the river.


Photo: RogPool

Before entering these cocoons of wellbeing, we had to change in the cabins on the mainland and then run the last icy steps before plunging into the futuristic shape. In the first space a bar provides hot and cold drinks, finger food and lots of magazines. People lie wrapped in white blankets, reading, chatting, listening to the unobtrusive music and otherwise chilling out. The prime spots - those with a view - are of course difficult to snag. It hardly matters because the best is still to come.


Photo: RogPool

Two saunas are located in the next cocoon. The hottest one has a river view and an added bonus: instead of the ordinary cool-down by a cold shower, a dive in the real Badeschiff provides an extraordinary experience. Since there was nobody there I could swim undisturbed in the green glittering water feeling free off all gravity. At each end of the pool you can thrust away the plastic curtains and push yourself a little bit on the basin. There you are in the middle of the starry night overlooking the Spree as far as the eyes can see. 

Feeling warm and comfortable to the last sinew I took consolation in the fact that this is happening only because it’s winter.

WINTER BADESCHIFF AN DER ARENA, Eichenstr. 4, Berlin

Go further: Find out about good places to hang out along the Spree-river during the summer. Just click here.

Publicado por
Cicerone

In Touch With History: Rembrandt's Private Collection

Amsterdam / Visitar
en por Cicerone /  Frederique van Staalen, 17. Jan 2009

Now that most of Amsterdam’s major museums are in the middle of extensive renovations, the little ones not only have to cope with masses of tourists but also simultaneously offer an interesting exhibition program. The Rembrandt Huis, home of the painter from 1639-1656 has mastered both requirements. 

I like the idea that Rembrandt lived like most privileged Amsterdammers in a house where you have to take the stairs constantly since every floor offers space for only one or two rooms. In the centre of the house an old inconvenient wooden staircase winds from cellar to attic. Little tiles placed above the floor recall times without vacuum cleaner, when cleaning meant broom and water. Those beautiful tiles were for more than decoration - they also prevented the walls getting drenched.

Although poor Rembrandt went bankrupt and lost almost everything he owned, including this house, it’s exactly this knowledge that makes history so tangible at this little museum. Observing his private collection, I suddenly realized that all of these artifacts - coins, pieces of antique statues, beautiful patterned and colorful butterflies, china (extremely expensive at the time), strange skeletons, shells and corals (before they became a huge rage in the 18th century) were the sort of things normally found in the collection of a tremendously wealthy man, and not among the belongings of a painter. It’s fascinating to study the kind of objects he assembled, so diverse and strange that they offer a glimpse in Rembrandt’s daily world. For me it’s dazzling to observe this seventeenth-century microcosm - those pieces bring back history far more vividly than the whole house with all its furniture.

Another draw of the Rembrandt house is the diversity of shows that they organize. Often related to seventeenth-century artists or subjects, these charming exhibitions often focus on small details. That’s refreshing after too many blockbuster shows exploiting the Dutch “Golden Age.” I wasn’t too thrilled about the current exhibition 'Jacob Backer, Rembrandt’s Opposite', but that had probably more to do with the misleading title.

A final feature at the museum - unrivaled in the world - is the almost complete collection (260 of 290) of Rembrandt’s etchings. A changing selection is on permanent display. Given that Rembrandt’s fame depended largely on his graphic work, it’s a must-see for every art lover.

MUSEUM HET REMBRANDTHUIS; Jodenbreestraat 4, Amsterdam

'Jacob Backer, Rembrandt’s Opposite' until 22.02.2009

Publicado por
Cicerone

Say Cheese, Say Holland

Amsterdam / Compras
en por Cicerone /  Frederique van Staalen, 11. Jan 2009

Call us cheesy, but momondo has gone crazy for coagulated milk. We've given our writers the mission of uncovering 'le meilleur fromage' in Paris, 'il migliore formaggio' in Rome, the stinkiest cheeses in New York and the hands-down best cheeses in Amsterdam, London, Madrid and Brussels. So grab yourself some bread and wine and join us on this tour of the best cheese shops in Europe.

Amsterdam

Among all the things identified with Holland - windmills, wooden shoes, tulips and Rembrandt - cheese plays minor role. Lacking the refinement of French and Italian cheeses, Dutch cheese often is associated simply with Gouda or Edammer. Being a vegetarian, I have developed a strong liking for cheese. But unlike Meg and Louise, who always seem on the run to discover heavenly novelties, I could easily live on just one cheese: Oude Boeren kaas (old farmer cheese).

In my eyes, this cheese could easily compete with for instance a Comté of 18 months or any classy Parmigiano Reggiano. A simple rule of thumb is this: the nobler the environment, the higher the chance you’ll find good quality cheese, but that you could have probably figured out yourself.  If you are not willing to pay a fortune for a piece of old gold you might take following places into consideration.


Nieuwmarkt

At first glance, Amsterdam doesn’t seem to share many similarities with Paris, but we do have something in common: a frontier in the city. Akin to the Seine, which divides Paris into the right and left banks, the Damrak splits the centre in the Nieuwmarkt and the Grachtengordel (canal belt). And as in Paris everybody sticks to his part of the city claiming it as the best. My first real apartment in Amsterdam was in an old coffee roast directly across the central station. Times have changed, because now the Apple store moved in and I fell in love with the Nieuwmarkt becoming unfaithful to my old part of town but not forgetting its attractions.


Nieuwmarkt

On Saturdays a farmer's market is set up on the Nieuwmarkt - a bit less swanky bio than one on the Noordermarkt. Famous is the goat man who doesn’t himself like cheese at all, but who sells an excellent goat cheese. There’s also the Milkman with a rather delicious Boeren Oude. But when I am really longing for a piece of old cheese, I willingly cross the frontier and head for the Lindenmarkt. This market held on Saturdays runs parallel to the Noordermarkt.


Lindenmarkt

Years ago, I encountered two brothers selling the most mouth-watering cheese. Besides the cheese, I was at that time very much impressed by the big Breitling’s on their wrist because I couldn’t understand that one could actually be making money on selling cheese. The only problem is that you have to wait quite a while because it’s always crowded. You can probably buy better bread at the nearby bio market since normal Dutch bread isn’t something we can really boast about.

Publicado por
Cicerone

Local View: Maaike Gottschal's Amsterdam

Amsterdam / Visitar
en por Cicerone /  Frederique van Staalen, 2. Jan 2009


Photo: Mediamatic

Fashion designer Maaike Gottschal has her own label: thisisnotparis Sometimes she collaborates with other artists or designers. For instance, her next collection, Paris Fashion, was created with Natasha Hagenbeek. Besides working with her label, Maaike produced the Droog Designs Urban Play Route, an international exhibition-project on urban design. Maaike lives in the house with the narrowest façade in the city. This is her's Amsterdam.

Being a fashion designer yourself, where in the city do you go for inspiration?


Galleri Fons Welters Photo: Tonie

It depends what I’m working on, but looking at modern art always gives me new ideas. I regularly visit the gallery of Fons Welters, and I also frequent Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam and the modern art gallery circuit around the Rozengracht.

Crucial to my work is the story, the concept, behind the clothes. I used to hang around at the flea market Noordermarkt after the market was finished, wondering why the piles of clothes left behind were not fashionable anymore. In addition, I’m attracted to the periphery, to the outskirts of the city.

Once I was working on a collection of football knits and found a strange football club in the Amsterdamse bos. These individually dressed -up men, who changed in a car trunk, brought new inspiration to my project. Sometimes it is just a tiny detail that fascinates me and I start tracing it. A good example is my project White. I saw those paint spots on the working clothes of painters, and the blur of colors on their clothes triggered something in my mind.

Do you think Amsterdam offers good shopping possibilities and where do you like shopping yourself?


Sprmrkt Photo: Mymonobrow

Maybe Amsterdam is not the most hip and trendy city but there are several shops worth a visit. Sky, on the Herengracht 228 is an interesting place. Amongst others, you can find the French labels Isabel Marant and a.p.c. Van Ravenstein has a beautiful collection, but it’s a really exclusive boutique. I prefer Sprmrkt on the Rozengracht. In this former supermarket they sell fashion (from acne to martin magiela). It’s not only couture - it’s more grungy and underground. Besides they have books and vintage interior design pieces. I also like looking for clothes at the Volksbond shop on Haarlemmerstraat 146. Knowing that many inhabitants of the Grachtengordel (people living in the canals houses who are normally well-off) bring their old stuff there, it’s always fun to stroll around.

Do you have a favourite hangout place?


The Movies

I don’t exactly have one place where I go on a regular basis but there are certain spots which have attracted me over the years. For instance,
I’m fond of The Movies, a stunning art deco café and a cinema on Haarlemmer straat.


Café In ’t Aepjen

Or the typical Dutch café In ’t Aepjen, located in one of the oldest houses in Amsterdam on the Zeedijk 1. I like to plunge into this always crowded place which charms tourists and locals alike. To cope with hectic city, I like to relax on the farm of my boyfriend far away in Oost Voorne. But on a pretty sunny day, when all the terraces in the centre tend to be jam-packed, I’ll take the boat with my bike and go straight to Amsterdam Noord. I think Noord has got potential and is the up-and-coming part of the city right now. Just look at projects like the gardens and district of Tolhuistuin. Such initiatives will give the area an enormous boost. I have seen the same development in other parts of the city - as soon as artists and other culture-minded people settle down, the establishment will follow sooner or later.

Amsterdam is famous for paintings of the Golden Age and Van Gogh. Do you visit trendier galleries’ or art institutions?


Tobias Rehberger-installation (2008) at Stedelijk Museum. Photo: Niceness

I am a big fan of the outstanding collection of the Stedelijk Museum. The museum building on the Museumsplein is currently closed for renovation works scheduled to to end in December 2009 and until then the museum will organise travelling exhibitions on different locations in town.


Windowshopping: Mediamatic Photo: Nadia Peek

Furthermore, I consider Netherlands Media Arts Institute Montevideo on the Keizersgracht 264 to be a significant institution, as well as Mediamatic - but the latter doesn’t always exhibitions running. And of course the galleries around the Rozengracht that I mentioned before.

When your latest project has finished successfully, where are you celebrating?


Westerpark Photo: D_vdm

It’s a pity that I don’t have a garden in Amsterdam.  In summertime I adore eating outside. I certainly would go for a barbecue or picnic with friends in the Westerpark. But on very special occasions I would love to take my sweetheart for a diner at Van de Kaart on Prinsesgracht 512. I enjoy the French cuisine, the personal professional service and of course the delicate food. Normally I don’t dine that high class; I eat in one of those little places on Haarlermerstaat or take a Thai somewhere in town.

I’m not so much in to clubbing anymore but I love to party at openings, festivities at W139, or crazy thematic parties at Mediamatic. And I almost forgot - Studio 80 is a nice place when I want to dance!

Go further:

Local view: Bob Stanley's London

Local view: Catherine Sanderson's Paris

Local view: Jerome Weatherald's London

Local view: Lauren Elkin's Paris

Local view: Sebastian Horsley's London

Local view: Gilles Valentin's Istanbul

Local view: Adam Kuban's New York

Local view: Christophe Abric's Paris

Local view: Melissa Maldonado's Berlin

Local view: Jozef Spodniak's Prague

Local View: Dana Boulé's Paris

Publicado por
Cicerone