Is There Any Escape From Sodom And Gomorrah?

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Sex and the City: a dream combination. As everybody over six knows, sex sells and for quite a long time now the erotic industry has been an important feature of Amsterdam’s reputation. Even an enlightened journalist like D, who I know in Berlin, was astonished to see what the shops so frankly offer in their windows.

The Red Light District (de wallen), in fact a very picturesque part of the city, often causes its inhabitants nausea. Filth everywhere, the sleaziest characters you can imagine, women behind their windows, the drunks, the junks – they altogether make out this inferno.

A friend of mine, who organizes the best New Year’s parties, lives in the wallen. So every year after the party, dragging two little girls with me in the middle of the night avoiding disgusting blokes and suspect liquids on the street, I can’t help thinking: is there an escape from this living hell?

It’s hard to believe but it’s true. We have had a farewell party and the day after, a friend took me to Blauw aan de Wal, a restaurant in a former warehouse, which is the neighboring house to our party location. Only a small sign, I obviously failed to notice, shows its existence.

Tucked away, a little porch leads to an abundantly green patio decorated with small white tables that are lit by candlelights. Again, it’s the light that gives this place its heavenly atmosphere keeping in mind I had just left the street with the neonlights and hordes of tourists. I almost felt a foreigner in my own city, since it’s seldom you’ll find such old fashioned, decent, warm and professional service I somehow associate with books like The Remains of the Day.

Moreover the food and wine were superb, delicate in their choice and quality. To quote the owner, one day a really good meal the next day water and bread. Therefore it will not be a cheap dinner but for a night in heaven I would be willing to pay the double.

BLAUW AAN DE WAL, Oudezijds Achterburgwal 99, Amsterdam 

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by Cicerone 30. Oct 2008
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