Photo: Anna_t

Yesterday, my fiance Jan and I were riding the subway (the T-bana) home when he suddenly pointed out the window.

”Oh, so that’s what they were doing, they were putting in those LED things...”

Östermalmtorg

Sure enough, newly installed neon-blue lights shone up brightly from the floor of the platform at Östermalmstorg. They’ve been renovating the stop for months now, and it was nice to see that someone was thinking about how to liven up the space. As city subways go, I’ve always thought Stockholm boasts one of the smoothest, most navigable, and most comfortable rides I’ve tried. But as an added bonus, Stockholm’s subway system doubles as a huge museum of contemporary art, making various stops destinations in and of themselves.

Kungsträdgården

Photo: Nenyaki

There are lots of stations to choose from, but the first one to come to mind is the one at Kungsträdgården. Using actual architectural ruins from various sites around Stockholm, the subway stop is artfully staged as ruins of a civilization. Fake plants, dripping water, and blue-coil gaslamps complete the surreal scene far, far below street level.

Karlaplan

At my own stop, Karlaplan, they’ve recently restored a photo collage that gives plenty of odd details to mull over as you wait for the train. Why is a young King Carl XVI Gustaf there, scowling and looking away from the lady scouring the floor? What’s up with that stairway to heaven?

Skarpnäck

When Jan and I were visiting a friend in Skarpnäck not too long ago, we took the opportunity to photograph ourselves posing (very self-consciously) on its monumental rock sculptures/furniture.

Thorildsplan

At Thorildsplan, they have a cheerful Atari-era video thing going on with the tiles…

Norsborg

And somewhere along the way out to Norsborg, riders pass a giant 'L'. Jan and I couldn’t come up with any explanation, but I rather liked it. (I suppose I’m biased, though.)

Solna Centrum

Another wacky stop is the one at Solna Centrum, on the blue line. As you get down to the platform, you’re greeted by...a moose! Yup, a gigantic moose in a case.

Farther along the platform, there’s another case with...a looming White House being picketed by a bunch of little Swedish cottages! (At least, that’s Jan’s interpretation.) There are a lot of nice details in the case, like a helicopter and soldiers planting a flag, á la Iwo Jima, on a nearby hill. I have no idea what the darn thing is supposed to mean or even refer to, but hey, that’s perfect for something to ponder as you wait for the train.

Medborgarplatsen

On the other hand, there are plenty of monstrous excuses for public art at some of the stops. Those funky new uplights at Östermalmstorg don’t distract enough from the hideosity of the art on the walls.

You can’t win them all, I guess. And sometimes it’s hard to know if some of the art is officially sanctioned. Take this tricked-out garbage can at Medborgarplatsen.

The only disco-ified can along the platform, one wonders if it was always special, or is it just the last unvandalized and unreplaced can? Or is this a new, subversive form of tagging, like those knitted covers on various metal poles around the city?

In any case, the subway here is full of visual treats for anyone curious and observant.