Rumor has it that Stockholm’s Hötorget – the Haymarket – has been a marketplace since nearly the founding of the city in the mid-13th century. It gives the place a certain charm to my American eyes, although few Swedes would find it charming I’d bet.

Intimidated by the haggling of the fruit and vegetable and flower sellers who are more likely to be from the Balkans than from Blekinge (which would be one of Sweden’s 21 counties), sniffing at the dingy cobblestones sticky with wilted leaves and smashed berries, it’s too disorderly and dirty for the typical Swedish Swede.

But I love the place.

All those strawberries, new potatoes and chanterelle mushrooms laid out in careful rows, buckets of peonies and roses and lilies, and the hawkers calling out their bargains in heavily accented Swedish. Just make sure you double check the arithmetic before you hand over any money – I nearly paid forty crowns too much when I bought a couple kilos of peaches this past Saturday.

Rowena Subido

Once you’ve gotten your fruit, go inside and down the stairs – they tore down the original market building in 1953 and built an ugly glass box to house a movie theatre and put the market in the basement – the sellers are less aggressive and even more international, selling everything from seafood terrines to Moroccan preserved lemons and merguëz sausages. My favorites are the Chilean empanadas, made fresh every day, bought from the Filipino-South American deli Kapit Bahay Katangi Tangi, in the northeast corner of the hall. You can even get a Guarana soda from the owner, Rowena Subido. Or just go with a Swedish classic, a can of Ramlösa water.

Now take your empanada, your Ramlösa and your pint of Swedish strawberries, find a clean spot – well, as clean as you can – on the steps of the the Stockholm Concert Hall and join the crowd sitting in the sun, with a great view of the statue of Orpheus on your left and the market in all its small glory in front of you.
 

When my office moved from the outer edges of the city to the center, all my co-workers were overjoyed: so much easier to get to, tons of lunch places to choose from and endless possibilities to run errands during lunch.

For me, aside from a significantly shorter walk to work (a mere 15 minutes) probably the biggest impact on my life was the fact that Stockholm’s biggest bookstore was now just across the street.

I have a terrible weakness for books. Book lust, isn’t that one of the seven deadly sins?

Having the huge Akademibokhandeln bookstore (Mäster Samuelsgatan 28) so close hasn’t been good for my addiction. They not only stock the latest novels reviewed in the New York Times, they also have a huge English paperback section (a mere four days ago, I was unable to stop myself from buying a hardcover edition of The Story of Edgar Sawtelle, which I had read about maybe a week before I bought it.)

Interior of New York Stories

Of course, I am a firm believer in supporting independent booksellers. So Akademibokhandeln isn’t my only supplier. I am also dependent on Hedengrens in Sturegallerian, which has a great collection of books on just about any subject, many in English as well as other, uh, non-Swedish languages. However, my biggest enabler is probably Margaret Patane of New York Stories, a little English bookstore with a big heart and a wonderfully eclectic selection on Odengatan across from Vasaparken, just down the street from my apartment and a couple of doors over from the children’s bookstore Bokspindeln, where I buy picture books that I use to lure my goddaughter into the murky world of book addiction.

The main reading room in Stadsbiblioteket

You might ask why I don’t just borrow books from the library. After all, Stockholm’s main city library – Stadsbiblioteket - is a 30-second walk from the front door of my apartment building. It’s not just any old library, either. It’s a masterpiece of modernism and arguably Stockholm’s greatest building, if you ask an architect. A cylinder on top of a cube, the main reading room with its soaring ceiling and books elegantly circling the walls in colored bands is sublime. Unfortunately, my particular book lust requires that I own the books, so, Stadsbiblioteket is really just something beautiful for me to look at when I need an architecture fix.

But don’t let that stop you from indulging.

Go further: Read Martin's guide to his favourite book stores in Barcelona here.
 

If you have a soft spot for shopping, you have come to the right place. Stockholm offers overwhelming department stores, designer flagship stores and many small and interesting shops. If you have an uncontrollable urge to experience IKEA in the homeland of this furniture giant, do it in Stockholm. Since it’s here that you will find the world’s largest IKEA, and, trust us, that is one large IKEA.

Normalm/Vasastan

A visit to Stockholm ought to include Acne Jeans’ flagship store on Norrmalmstorg. You will find jeans galore as well as cool sweaters and dresses.

Acne Jeans, Norrmalmstorg 2
www.acnejeans.com

Designtorget

DesignTorget is a Forum for new designers. The objective is to give designers a chance to show their products. Consequently, the store’s stock changes regularly. Designtorget can be found several places in the city, but the branch on Sergels Torg is one of the largest in Stockholm.
It is always interesting to check out, and it’s hard to leave the place without making one or two purchases. Mostly something you had no idea you needed!

Designtorget, Kulturhuset Sergels Torg
www.designtorget.se

3 centres in Normalm

In Normalm you will also find the warehouses Åhléns, NK and PKhuset. NK is Stockholm’s equivalent to Selfridges and has many good branches. In Åhléns you can find a branch of Japanese brand Muji, among others.

NK, Hamngatan 18-20
www.nk.se

Åhléns, Klarabergsgatan 50
www.ahlens.se

PKhuset, Hamngatan 14
www.pkhuset.com

In Hamngatan, where NK and PKhuset are located, you will also find several large chain stores, such as Zara and giant H&M stores.

Refill

Xoko

At Xoko, they make heavenly desserts. You should try their chocolate truffle or the hot chocolate.

Xoko, Rörstandsgatan 15

Mellquist Caffé

Right across the street from Xoko is Mellquist Caffé, which a lot of people consider to be Stockholm’s best coffee bar. You can get a cheese sandwich and a cup of gourmet coffee. 

Mellquist Caffé, Rörstandsgatan 4

Östermalm

Östermalm can be compared to London’s Chelsea or Knightsbridge or New York’s Upper East Side. This is where you find all the expensive and exclusive brands. A good place to start is in Birger Jarlsgatan, where Gucci, Mulberry and French Zadig & Voltaire reside.

Nathalie Schuterman

In Birger Jarlsgatan you can also find Nathalie Schuterman, which is a great shop with a fine selection from top designers like Prada, Marni, Marc Jacobs, Chloé, Balenciaga, YSL, Jil Sander, Michael Kors and many others.
The shop itself is just as stylish as the clothes with white walls and built-in shelves and a large counter in the middle.

Nathalie Schuterman, Birger Jarlsgatan 5
www.nathalieschuterman.se

The Swedish brand Whyred has repeatedly been voted best Swedish design in several surveys. Discover why in Whyred’s large flagship store.

Whyred, Mäster Samuelsgatan 5
www.whyred.se

TLC

If you continue up Birger Jarlsgatan, you will get to Stureplan. At number 2 you will find a well-kept secret. Just a tiny sign on the door buzzer reveals the existence of the boutique, and you have to buzz to be granted access and bankrupt yourself in clothes from Alexander McQueen and Zac Posen.

TLC, Stureplan 2, plan 1

Södermalm

We at momondo find that Söder is the best shopping area in Stockholm. A good starting point for shopping in Söder is Götgatan, where you will find Makeup Store, Granit, Designertorget as well as many other exciting shops. From Götgatan you continue to the Söder area, SoFo. Don’t forget that The Street (see Go see & Do) can also be found in Södermalm.

Konsthantverket

A very nice shop right by Slusen. Swedish designers who work with ceramics, glass, precious stones, textiles  have opened a joint store that sells quality arts and crafts in modern designs.

C/O

C/O has it all! You can buy Vanessa Bruno and Marc by Marc Jacobs among many others and you can have a facial and get your hair cut. There is also a café and a DJ to create the perfect atmosphere.

C/O, Götgatan 30, Götgatsbacken 36

Bruno Götgatsbacken

A mini mall on Götgatan with lots of Scandinavian designers like Filippa K, H&M, David Designs, Whyred, Munthe plus Simonsen and many others.

In the middle of all this is Ljunggrens, where you can rest your feet in between the shopping.

The newest shop in Bruno Götgatsbacken is the L.A. brand American Apparel, which stocks colorful casual-wear for men and women.

Bruno Götgatsbacken, Götgatan 38
www.brunogotgatsbacken.se

SoFo

SoFo is a lively and vibrating part of Söder, where new shops, cafés and restaurants keep cropping up. If you walk about in Södermannasgatan, Nytorgsgatan, Skånegatan and the side streets, you will not be on the wrong track.

Grandpapa

A funky store for men and women. The clothes are both old and new. A DJ is mixing in the middle of the store, while you try on the clothes. The atmosphere is informal and you tend you hang out for a while.

Grandpapa, Södermannag 21
www.grandpa.se

Påkläderiet

Next to Grandpapa is Påkläderiet, a beautiful second hand clothes shop, filled with pretty lace dresses, shoes and handbags.

Påkläderiet, Södermannag 19

Stockholm has gone vintage crazy, and Beyond Retro is an awesome place to hunt for cool stuff.

Beyond Retro, Åsögatan 144
www.beyondretro.se

Jenny Hellström

Swedish designer Jenny Hellström does classic clothing with a twist and lots of fine details. In the shop on Hornstulls Strand you will find a great selection and perfect service.

Jenny Hellström, Hornstulls strand 11
www.jennyhellstrom.com

Nitty Gritty

Do not miss Nitty Gritty. You enter through a big branch of the French brand A.P.C., and as you continue, the store reveals lots of great fashion for both men and women, like Sonia Rykiel, Paul Smith and various smaller brands.

The store has it’s own hair salon and a nice café with good sandwiches and delicious coffee.

Nitty Gritty, Krukmakargatan 26

Refill

There is plenty of cafés and good places to eat on Söder. Check out:

Svart Kaffe

This coffee place doesn’t look like much with its worn-down furniture, but the coffee is very good and the clientele is entertaining to watch.

Svart Kaffe, Södermannagatan 21

Koh Phangan

Excellent Thai food. Recognize the place by its quiet unusual bamboo façade.

Koh Phangan, Skånegatan 57
www.kohphangan.se

By Mette Lomholdt