GO ROME

By David Rich 

There aren’t many places that can brag about giving you 3000 years of history in 3 hours. But Rome can. That’s the time it takes to walk quickly through the old part of town. The city offers 50 million objects of art, and it’s impossible to see them all – but you can content yourself with less. If you’re not into history, hang out in the city’s breathing hole, the Villa Borghese park, or explore the budding hip area, San Lorenzo. Or just eat! In Rome you can get seafood pasta so good it will make you cry. And don’t forget to have an ice cream in one of the city’s many Gelaterias.

OH - NO GO

It’s probably the world’s most famous fountain, thanks to Federico Fellini, who shot the famous scene where Anita Ekberg is bathing in the fountaion for his movie “La Dolce Vita” from 1960.  But what’s the point of going if you can’t even see the water? And that’s the thing about Fontana di Trevi in the heart of Rome. Tourists are blocking each other’s view and so it’s a waste of time. Since the dawn of day, the Romans have adored water, and there are plenty of possibilities to see beautiful fountains elsewhere in the city. If you really want to see this one, go in the early morning or in the night, when the fountain is lit-up.

AREAS

Centro Storico

Rome is a cultural challenge so packed with history and art objects that it would take a year to go through them all. It has been estimated that Italy owns 50 percent of the world’s art treasures – and Rome alone is home to one third of them. A quick calculation makes that around 50 million objects of art divided between a hundred museums and art collections. Add to that the city’s abundance of antique and historical buildings.
In order not to get dizzy, it’s a good idea to start at a very steady column: the Millarium Aureum (Golden Milestone) in Forum Romanum. In ancient Rome, it was from this column that all distances were measured. So it is no less than the navel of the world – or at least of Rome. You have now started your trio in the historical part of town, which is full of sights. You must see the Pantheon on Piazza della Rotonda, which is one of the most well kept monuments from ancient Rome. The church is fascinating, particularly at the inside. Walk by Piazza Navona, which almost feels like the locals’ outdoors salon, and dwell by the piazza’s Baroque fountains – particularly Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers in the center.
You are strongly encouraged to go to this part of the city, where you can walk through 3000 years of history in 3 hours.

Trastevere

A picture perfect, charming area south of the Tiber and once Rome’s bohemian neighborhood. Today it is very touristy, but a place like Piazza Santa Maria with the church Santa Maria as its centre is still worth visiting. It’s the Romans’ favorite church, and it is really very beautiful.
The area is divided in two. If you turn left into Trastevere after having crossed the Tiber, you will come to the slightly less touristy part with Piazza Santa Cecilia and streets like Via del Vascellari, where book sellers, art galleries and wine bars sit side by side. None of them go to great lengths to define which category they belong to.  At Bar San Calisto there are still locals who come to get refreshments.

Tridente

This is where to go for up-scale shopping, in Via di Rippetta, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino, which ends at Piazza di Spagna and The Spanish Steps.  Everything starts from the cool and very touristy Piazza del Popolo. The big attraction in the area is Villa Borghese, Rome’s most popular park.

Monti and San Lorenzo

The city’s multi-ethnic area, Monti, is situated around the highest hill in Rome, Esquilino. Its reputation as poor and lacking life has been fixed in recent years with a modernistic renovation of the Termini Station. It’s still one of the least touristy areas in Rome, but some places have a vibrating urban-chic atmosphere with trendy cafés and shops, particularly along Via dei Serpenti and Via del Boschetto.   
The most exciting area is San Lorenzo, which until recently was a place you would not go to, since it was occupied by the city’s drug dealers and criminals. But it has always been a place where artists belonged, and as true bohemians they are now occupying the warehouses and the swanky restaurants. The area is noticeable for the sophisticated and renovated buildings that are situated side by side with all the dingy and worn-down places. But that’s how it is, in Rome’s currently most edgy neighborhood.

Stato dela Citta del Vaticano

The State of the Vatican City, or just the Vatican City, is the world’s smallest independent state with less than 800 inhabitants. One of them is of course the boss: the Pope. In the Vatican City, you will find Saint Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museums, where you can see Michelangelo’s famous and beautiful fresco on the ceiling of The Sistine Chapel.  It’s impossible to see everything in the museums, but despite the many tourists, it’s worth spending some time here.

GO SEE & DO

Villa Borghese

An absolute go go! Rome’s most popular park – and for a good reason. It is really beautiful with pine trees, cypresses and little fountains. On Monte Pincio there is a merry-go-round and a small puppet show for children. You can also find the fabulous museum of modern art here; Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, with new Italian art. Both the artistic content and the architectural frame are strongly recommendable.

San Clemente

One of the sights that you have to see! A “sandwich” church in three levels. From the street, you enter a 12th century basilica. Walk down one level and you will be in a basilica from the 4th century. And as if that wasn’t enough, walk down yet another level and you will get to a Roman quarter with a little alley from the First Century!

San Clemente,
Via Labicana 95.

Campo dei Fiori

It looks like a set from a movie when you enter Rome’s largest food market, Campo Dei Fiori. It is founded between the ancient Temple of Venus and the Pompey’s Theatre, and it’s really colorful and lively. It should be experienced in the morning – and no later that 2pm where everything is packed away! You can buy all sorts of delicious products, and expect it to get pretty loud when the vendors compete to attract customers.

Campo dei Fiori,
Piazza Campo dei Fiori

Museo dell’Ara Pacis

One of Rome’s newer museums opened in 2006 and was designed by architect Richard Meier. The different exhibitions and the museum building alone is worth a visit.

Museo dell'Ara Pacis, Lungotevere, Augusta
www.arapacis.it

Acanto Benessere Spa

If you get tired from wandering around, you should treat yourself to a stop at Acanto spa, located in the heart of the historical part of Rome. They offer beauty treatments in the ancient Roman way! Beautiful, minimalist and stylish interior design. You can have a coffee in the adjacent Caffé Universale.

Acanto Benessere Spa, Piazza Rondanini 30
www.acantobenessere.it

GO EAT

At 7am the Romans hit the bars for espresso. At 1pm they take their lunch, consisting of three courses and wine. Around 7pm, it’s time for an “aperitivo”, typically a Prosecco Negroni with Campari, Martini rosso and Gin. Then you’re ready for dinner, starting at 8.30pm!

il Pomodorino

A few steps from the top of Via Veneto, behind Grand Hotel Flora in Via Campania, you will find il Pomodorino. A large, sizzling restaurant with two pizza ovens. They have specialized in Neapolitan food and dishes that you usually don’t connect with the Italian kitchen – such as suppli (deep fried risotto balls) and crocette (deep fried mashed potatoes). The pizzas are fabulous and they have a counter with a guys who is solely there to hand-cut different kinds of prosciutto. Pasta is not their force, but they have a lot of traditional rustic dishes and a wide selection of antipasti (starters). Everything at reasonable prices. Lots of locals and few tourists.

il Pomodorino,
Via Campania

Tullio

At the foot of Via Veneto, behind Hotel Bernini on Piazza Barberini, is this classical Florentine restaurant, Tullio.  Everything is wonderful, but particular stand-outs are the steaks and the risotto with tartufo bianco (white truffle), when in season. Also try the grilled artichoke, but be aware of the check. It’s a pricy place.

Tullio,
Via San Nicola da Tolentino 26.

Nino

A dark wooden ceiling and tall wood panels set the atmosphere. It is often crowded, so you should reserve a table. Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes came here often when he was shooting in Rome, and this has been brought to the ears of the Americans. They take up a lot of the space and the tense smiles don’t leave the waiters’ faces until 10pm where the local Italians pour in – and the Americans leave. On Fridays, they serve seafood pasta, and it’s so good it will make your eyes water. The spaghetti is cooked to perfection, the shellfish is al dente and the parsley and the famous sauce bianco are perfetto!
Don’t forget to ask for the house olive oil to dip your bread in – it’s the best oil you can get.

Nino,
Via Borgognona 11

Nueva Fiorentina

An amazing restaurant, solely visited by locals. It’s lovely to sit outside on the green chairs and enjoy the evening and the delicious food served by the nice waiters. Their thin pizza-like bread sprinkled with olive oil is wonderful and the Cacio e Pepe spaghetti topped with parmesan and pepper is second to none! If you can make it before they are all gone, order the house pastry.

Nueva Fiorentina
Via Angelo Brofferio 41/51

Top three Gelateria (Ice cream parlors)

Cremaria Monteforte

To the right of the Pantheon, you will find this little place – almost hidden behind the crowd of people gathering in front of it. But it’s a little treasure and you have to try their gelato rosa and black chocolate. It’s almost poetic.

Cremaria Monteforte,
Via del Rotonda 22

Ciampini

Located on one of the greatest squares in Rome, which is actually not that great looking, but the atmosphere is great. It’s awesome to sit here and enjoy the best ice cream or coffee in the city, watching well-dressed gentlemen in tight suits and beautiful women in high heels walking by. Even the nuns wear heels! Choose from the metal board and have your ice cream served in small silver bowls. But don’t forget to check the glass cupboards behind you. It would be a shame to miss the mini cones from the top shelf!

Ciampini,
Piazza de San Lorenza, Lucina 29

Gelateria di San Crispino

A small and narrow ice cream parlor. You will hardly notice it, if it’s not one of those days where the line goes all the way out in the street. Look for bright marble and a tiny glass sign with blue writing. Treat yourself to an ice cream with a distinct flavor. You can try the ginger-cinnamon or their signature ice cream: San Crispino Honey.

Gelateria di San Crispino,
Via della Panetteria 42

GO SHOP

Tridente

Tridente is the place to go for up-scale shopping. All the big designer brands are located here and on Via del Corso, Via dei Condotti and Via Borgognona. Armani, Fendi, Gucci, Prada, Versace etc.  At Piazza di Spagna, Via Due Marcelli, Via del Tritone and Piazza Barberini you can also find expensive designer stores.

Palazzo Fendi

Fendi’s flagship store is located in a Neo-Classic palace from the 19th century and it’s very stylish with the antique elegance spiced up with Fendi’s collections.

Palazzo Fendi,
Via dei Condotti 36/39

DA Dress Agency

Luxury haute couture that’s fun to have a look at.

DA Dress Agency,
Via del Vantaggio 1b.

TAD Concept Store

As the name suggests, it’s a concept store that sells everything it takes to be up-dated in the areas of clothes, perfume, hair products, interior design objects, music, literature and food. Über-funky place.

TAD Concept Store,
Via del Babuino 155 a

Gente

If you like more edgy stuff than the luxury brands offer, this unisex shop is great!

Gente,
Via Frattina 69

GO NIGHT

Supperclub

The Dutch group of architects, Concrete, has transformed the former baths, Neros, into a modern cabaret concept. You come and eat while DJs will take care of the musical menu. The food isn’t outstanding, but you can easily just come for a drink and hang out.

Supperclub,
Via de’Nari 14

Fluid

As the name suggests, the theme of this bar is fluids. There’s an artificial waterfall built into one of the walls. The patrons are sitting on what looks like lit-up ice cubes, and the ceiling gives the impression of an underwater cavern. It’s corny and funky, and they offer brilliant “aperitivo” and good DJ-music.

Fluid,
Via del Governo Vecchio 46

Cocktails on top

It’s super trendy to have cocktails at the fashionable hotels – and preferably the ones with a fabulous view of Rome.
Like in Zest Bar on top of the Radisson SAS Hotel, which most people don’t know is open for others than those staying at the hotel.
Hotel Aleph as well has a great view from its roof bar, 7th Heaven.
The view from Hotel la Russie is not overwhelming, but nevertheless Rome’s most up-scale hotel has a great bar, which is frequented by many locals. There is a view of a beautiful courtyard though, but at street level.

GO SLEEP

Hotel Locarno

A great hotel that completely lives up to the praising words that it receives in various travel guides. The rooms are individually designed with hand-made wallpaper and classical Italian style. The service is great and there are bikes available free of charge. That is awesome in Rome, if you don’t have the guts to rent a Vespa.

Hotel Locarno, Via della Penna 22
www.hotellocarno.com

Aleph

Decadent and chic are some of the adjectives that you can put on this price-winning hotel. The hotel’s theme circles around love and hate and angels and sinners – and in the lobby, two Samurais will greet you!  You have to enjoy design, attitude and details that are over-the-top in order to appreciate a stay here. It’s not for the minimalist aesthetes!

Aleph, Via di San Basilio 15
www.bosocolohotels.com

Hotel de Russie

Expensive, but wonderful and trendy. Celebrities stay here when they’re in Rome and the rooms are large, beautifully decorated in the 1930’s style – and situated right by the Piazza del Popolo. You can actually book rooms at reasonable prices outside the peak seasons, which applies to most hotels in Rome.

Hotel de Russie, Via del Babuoni 9
www.hotelderussie.it

TRANSPORT

To and from the airport

The Leonardo da Vinci airport, Fiumicino, (www.adr.it) is situated 26 km southwest of Rome.

There is a train that goes directly to and from Stazione Termini every 30 minutes. It takes about half an hour and costs 9,5 Euros.
 
Local trains leave every 15 minutes. It lasts an hour and costs 5 Euros.

Taxi (pick the yellow or white ones that have a license): From the airport it’s an additional 6 Euros to what is shown on the metre. In total around 45 Euros. The drive lasts 45-50 minutes to the center.

Bus to and from Stazione Termini. Lasts about one hour. Price for a single ticket: 9 Euros, return: 15 Euros. Children between 2 and 12 cost respectively 5 and 10 €.

Ciampino (www.adr.it) is located 15 km southeast of the center. Taxies cost between 40 and 50 Euros and the drive lasts 30 min.

It is worthwhile to order a transfer. You will be picked up in the airport and taken directly to the hotel at a cost of 35 Euros and up, each way. If you’re going to or from the Ciampino airport it costs from 42 Euros and up. Get more information and make a reservation at: www.airportshuttle.it.

Getting around in Rom

In Rome, buses are probably the best means of transportation. A few subway lines exist, but they will hardly get you all the places you want to go.
A one-way-ticket with bus/metro/tram (BIT) costs 1 € and lasts 75 minutes from the moment it’s stamped.

A one-day-ticket (BIG) costs 4 € and gives you unlimited transportation until midnight on the day it’s stamped.

A one-week-ticket (CIS) costs 16 €.
All tickets and passes are valid for both bus and metro and can be bought in ATAC and COTRAL centers and with special dealers.