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en by Mu Foo /  Meg Zimbeck, 27. Jun 2008

 

It’s not difficult to find a good restaurant in Rome. But it’s nearly impossible to find one that’s not filled with foreigners. I arrived in the Eternal City with the dream of finding the virgin trattoria – a charming place not yet covered by tourist fingerprints. That dream, I soon realized, is mathematically improbable. With the Eternal City now clocking 100,000 daily visitors, almost every threshold, no matter how “insider,” has been crossed.

The only hope for those who yearn to eat among the locals is to walk far away from the center into a neighborhood not on most maps. San Lorenzo lies just outside the walls to the east of Tremini train station. It hosts a university, affordable housing, and very few tourist attractions. It’s where we found our longed-for trattoria.

There were no guidebooks in sight when we arrived at Tram Tram for lunch. To celebrate our success in finally evading the horde, my friend and I decided to really go for it, ordering a bottle of wine and plate after plate of delicious food. The orechiette alla Norma was abnormally good, and my simple veal dish made me stammer.  Even our contorni (the vegetable side) was remarkable – a puree of fava beans in grassy olive oil with the sharp taste of sautéed chicory.

This wholly satisfying feast, topped off by espresso and dessert, was ours for less than 50€. There’s no doubt I’ll be back the next time I’m in Rome, and other dreamers (who aren’t afraid to work for it) are advised to follow suit.

Tram Tram (06-490416) via dei Reti 44/46, Rome

 

Published by
en by Momondo, 13. Oct 2007

Photo by Scalleja 

At 7am the Romans hit the bars for espresso. At 1pm they take their lunch, consisting of three courses and wine. Around 7pm, it’s time for an “aperitivo”, typically a Prosecco Negroni with Campari, Martini rosso and Gin. Then you’re ready for dinner, starting at 8.30pm!

il Pomodorino

A few steps from the top of Via Veneto, behind Grand Hotel Flora in Via Campania, you will find il Pomodorino. A large, sizzling restaurant with two pizza ovens. They have specialized in Neapolitan food and dishes that you usually don’t connect with the Italian kitchen – such as suppli (deep fried risotto balls) and crocette (deep fried mashed potatoes). The pizzas are fabulous and they have a counter with a guys who is solely there to hand-cut different kinds of prosciutto. Pasta is not their force, but they have a lot of traditional rustic dishes and a wide selection of antipasti (starters). Everything at reasonable prices. Lots of locals and few tourists.

il Pomodorino, Via Campania

Tullio

At the foot of Via Veneto, behind Hotel Bernini on Piazza Barberini, is this classical Florentine restaurant, Tullio.  Everything is wonderful, but particular stand-outs are the steaks and the risotto with tartufo bianco (white truffle), when in season. Also try the grilled artichoke, but be aware of the check. It’s a pricy place.

Tullio, Via San Nicola da Tolentino 26.

Nino

A dark wooden ceiling and tall wood panels set the atmosphere. It is often crowded, so you should reserve a table. Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes came here often when he was shooting in Rome, and this has been brought to the ears of the Americans. They take up a lot of the space and the tense smiles don’t leave the waiters’ faces until 10pm where the local Italians pour in – and the Americans leave. On Fridays, they serve seafood pasta, and it’s so good it will make your eyes water. The spaghetti is cooked to perfection, the shellfish is al dente and the parsley and the famous sauce bianco are perfetto!
Don’t forget to ask for the house olive oil to dip your bread in – it’s the best oil you can get.

Nino, Via Borgognona 11

Nueva Fiorentina

An amazing restaurant, solely visited by locals. It’s lovely to sit outside on the green chairs and enjoy the evening and the delicious food served by the nice waiters. Their thin pizza-like bread sprinkled with olive oil is wonderful and the Cacio e Pepe spaghetti topped with parmesan and pepper is second to none! If you can make it before they are all gone, order the house pastry.

Nueva Fiorentina, Via Angelo Brofferio 41/51

Top three Gelateria (Ice cream parlors)

Cremaria Monteforte

To the right of the Pantheon, you will find this little place – almost hidden behind the crowd of people gathering in front of it. But it’s a little treasure and you have to try their gelato rosa and black chocolate. It’s almost poetic.

Cremaria Monteforte, Via del Rotonda 22

Ciampini

Located on one of the greatest squares in Rome, which is actually not that great looking, but the atmosphere is great. It’s awesome to sit here and enjoy the best ice cream or coffee in the city, watching well-dressed gentlemen in tight suits and beautiful women in high heels walking by. Even the nuns wear heels! Choose from the metal board and have your ice cream served in small silver bowls. But don’t forget to check the glass cupboards behind you. It would be a shame to miss the mini cones from the top shelf!

Ciampini, Piazza de San Lorenza, Lucina 29

Gelateria di San Crispino

A small and narrow ice cream parlor. You will hardly notice it, if it’s not one of those days where the line goes all the way out in the street. Look for bright marble and a tiny glass sign with blue writing. Treat yourself to an ice cream with a distinct flavor. You can try the ginger-cinnamon or their signature ice cream: San Crispino Honey.

Gelateria di San Crispino, Via della Panetteria 42


By David Rich

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