GO PRAGUE
BY DAVID RICH
Prague is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities giving you centuries of history and architecture. You can admire impressive medieval castles and beautiful Renaissance, Baroque or Jugend style buildings.
The city is not large and all the sights can be reached on foot. If you get tired, you’re always near a café where you can rest your feet while you enjoy a well-served beer or a cup of coffee. There is also a wide array of restaurants and you can find something for every taste at decent prices.
Prague is quite simply a very beautiful and pleasant place to stay, which is confirmed by the enormous amount of visitors.
OH - NO GO
The Wenceslas Square (Václavske Námstĕsti in Czech) is large, touristy and difficult to avoid. There is not much to come for, unless you want to eat at McDonald’s, shop in international chain stores or spend your money in sleazy gambling arcades.
GO AREAS
Staré Mesto – The Old Town
The old town is Prague’s historical center. You can go exploring the labyrinth of picturesque alleys and cobblestone streets and admire the Gothic churches and the beautiful Baroque and Renaissance buildings. Located in the center of Staré Mesto is Prague’s Old Town Square (Staromĕstské námĕstí), where large crowds of tourists flock in front of The Astronomical Clock to watch its mechanical figures in action. Staré Mesto is a beautiful and lovely area, but there are lots of tourist traps. So you would bee wise to shop and eat elsewhere in Prague.
Nové Mesto – The New Town
Prague’s “New Town” is not actually that new. The part of town that is south of Staré Mesto was founded by Karel IV (Charles IV) in 1348. It offers rare Art Nouveau and Baroque architecture. The present has also left its mark on Nové Mesto, most clearly represented in Frank Gehry’s “Dancing House” – the Fred and Ginger Building.
Nové Mesto is twice the size and many times the grandeur of Staré Mesto. Large avenues, monumental squares as well as cafés and hotels erected in sumptuous Jugend style. West of The Wenceslas Square, squeezed in between the streets Národní and Resslova, you will find the hip area SoNa (South of the National Theatre), where budding young writers, designers and students hang out in the trendy bars and restaurants.
Josefov – the Jewish Quarter
Josefov is Prague’s Jewish quarter. Not much is left of what used to be one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. Nevertheless, Josefov is definitely worth visiting. In the area’s six synagogues and in the old Jewish Cemetery with thousands of tombstones, you can imagine the big influence Judaism used to have on the area. Today, international fashion temples and expensive restaurants have invaded Josefov, which has become one of Prague’s most exclusive areas for shopping and nightlife. Stylish, but expensive!
Hradčany and Mala Straná
On the hill west of the River Vltava and the Karel Bridge, the world’s biggest ancient castle, Prazsky Hrad (Prague Castle) towers. The castle was built in the 9th Century and has outlived several fires and invasions. Today, the group of buildings that form the castle appears like a small town with churches, chapels, gardens and towers from different periods of time. Since 1918, the country’s president has had his office in the Prague Castle, where heads of state from all over the world are still received. Prague’s Castle and the surrounding area constitute the area Hradčany, which is in sharp competition with Staré Mesto to qualify as Prague’s most touristy neighborhood.
On the slopes below Hradčany, the Mala Straná is situated with a beautiful view across the River Vlatva to Staré Mesto. Mala Straná was founded in the 13th century and the only recent edifice in the area seems to be the miniature copy of the Eiffel Tower, which was erected on top of the Petřin Hill in 1891!
Vinohrady and Žižkov
If you begin to ask yourself whether Prague is only inhabited by tourist, or if you just need to get a change from medieval castles and Baroque and Renaissance buildings, you should go to Vinohrady and Žižkov. These two residential areas are sharply isolated from Prague’s historical center by the railway and a heavily trafficked passageway. The elegant tree-lined residential buildings in Vinohrady give evidence of the prosperity in the past. Today, the high-ceilinged apartments from the end of the 19th century are very fancied by the people with the purchasing power.
The worn-down working class district, Žižkov, east of Vinohrady, is still marked by the Communist era, symbolized most clearly by the futuristic television tower that bears a certain resemblance to Tintin’s moon rocket. In the evening, the many bars and the alternative underground scene in Žižkov attract people from all over Prague.
GO SEE AND DO
Tram 22
Trams are a good way to give you a general view of Prague. We particularly recommend line 22, since it goes to almost every place you should see while you’re in town.
The Eiffel Tower
Another good way to get a general view of Prague –literally speaking – is to visit the miniature copy of the Eiffel Tower. Go on the funicular from Mala Straná to the peak of the Petřin hill, and go all the way up in the tower, which does not have an elevator! From here you have a fabulous view of Prague and the surrounding area.
Hang out in a café
Spend an afternoon in one of Prague’s many elegant cafés from the beginning of the last century, and imagine yourself in bygone days.
The National Theater
You should experience an opera in the National Theater (Národní Divadlo). You will see the most beautiful stage and hear the best musicians play. Treat yourself to one of the expensive tickets – the experience gets even greater if you are seated well.
The Saint Vitus’ Cathedral after dusk
One of Prague’s primary tourist attractions is the St. Vitus Cathedral, which is the biggest Gothic church in the Czech Republic. The cathedral is situated behind some big palace buildings, but its towers can be seen clearly from downtown. Go to the lit-up cathedral in the late evening. The church will be closed at this time, but you will have the place to yourself. At this time, there is a particular peaceful and slightly uncanny atmosphere, which is a much stronger experience than the one you will get in the daytime. On your way down, you should walk through The Golden Alley, which consists of some tiny houses that used to be the homes of goldsmiths.
The Cemetery in Žižkov
It may sound weird, but a walk in the old cemetery in Žižkov is actually fun. The giant and pompous graves from before Communism and WW II are quiet an experience. The cemetery closes at 6pm.
GO EAT
It is not hard to satisfy your hunger in Prague. There are restaurants all over the place! The Czechs usually take lunch between 11am and 1pm and dinner around 7pm. Most of the restaurants – or at least the ones in the tourist areas – stay open from early morning to late evening. You can smoke in the restaurants, but a growing number of places are divided into smoking and non-smoking sections.
Most restaurants in Prague serve heavy and substantial food in large quantities. The starter is often a soup and the main course will consist of a (very) well-done or braised piece of beef or pork, served with knödel and sauce. The meal is washed down with large local draft beers and you can finish with a Slivovice, which is a Czech plum brandy. If you’re not crazy about the rustic Czech kitchen or if you’ve just had enough of it, don’t despair. There are loads of restaurants in Prague that serve food from other corners of the world than the eastern European one.
The following restaurant guide appeals to the well lined as well as the slim wallet, and represents the classic and elegant, the rustic and traditional, and the modern and international kitchens.
Start your day with a breakfast at Café Savoy or Café Louvre, which are both some of Prague’s most classical and elegant cafés.
Café Savoy
Café Savoy is on the opposite side of the river from the National Theater. You can enjoy coffee and pastry sitting under the large chandeliers that hang from the impressive and gorgeous Neo-Renaissance ceiling. The café opens at 8am and stays open until the late evening, when the place becomes one of Prague’s most exclusive dinner restaurants. Café Savoy is as sophisticated as it gets!
Café Savoy, Vitĕzná 5
Café Louvre
In Café Louvre they serve breakfast/lunch and delicious coffee. The café is located in large, light and stylish rooms on the second floor, and in the summer there is a very pleasant roof terrace. Pals Franz Kafka and Max Brod used to meet at Café Louvre.
Café Louvre, Národní 20
Several hours of sightseeing in Prague can make your tummy rumble. So it’s good to know that you are never far from a generous serving of a substantial meal.
Ferdinanda
Try to have lunch at Ferdinanda, which is situated in Opletalova that runs from the Wenceslas Square. The restaurant has a farm theme; a rake serves as coat-hooks and feed bins are used as ashtrays. It is only on the lower level that you are allowed to smoke though, and contrary to your expectation of a “farm” restaurant, the space is bright and modern. The food is good and incredibly cheap. The kind wait staff does not speak English, but there is a menu written in English.
Ferdinanda, Opletalova
U Fleků
A true classic in Prague is U Fleku, which is located in cavern-like rooms from the 15th century in Nové Mesto. The rustic food is eaten at long communal tables and the beer is brewed on location. While eating, the guests are entertained by live music of the folkloristic kind. U Fleku is pretty touristy, but worth a visit.
U Fleků, Křemencova 11
When darkness falls, we encourage you to go to Vinohrady for dinner. Out there you will find a lot more restaurant experiences expecting you.
Mozaika
Well hidden in a basement in a modest street in Vinohrady, you will find the pleasant and intimate restaurant Mozaika. The extremely obliging and English-speaking waiters serve delicious food from their international kitchen. If you are very hungry, you should try the 7-course menu, which is always great! The menu changes every week. If you choose à la carte, we strongly recommend the sautéed shrimps with fresh herbs and the incredibly tender lamb. A reservation is recommended – particularly on weekends. In the summer you can sit outside.
Mozaika, Nitranská 13
Aromi
In Vinohrady, at the corner of Mánesova and U Kanálky, is the Italian restaurant Aromi that serves formidable fish dishes and a lot of other delicious food. The nice English-speaking waiters always show you the raw fish before it is taken to the kitchen for a kind treatment! That is quiet an experience. Try the grilled squid, it’s fabulous!
If you’re interested in wine, you have come to the right place. Aromi has an excellent wine menu and the expert waiters will generously share their knowledge with you. The prices are in the higher end, but still reasonable, considering that Aromi is recommended in the Michelin Guide.
Aromi, Mánesova 78
Sahara
A modern Moroccan inspired café/restaurant with a wonderful courtyard and little watercourses and comfortable couches in the basement. The restaurant has some delicious vegetarian dishes on the menu and you should try the yummy Moroccan platter!
Sahara, Námestí Míru 6
Nostress
In Josefov you will find Nostress, which serves a French-Asian cuisine in elegant surroundings. The food is refreshingly light, which can be much needed if you’ve had meat and knödel for lunch.
Nostress, Dušní 10
GO SHOP
Most shops in Prague are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturdays until 12am. Opening hours can vary pretty much though – particularly in the touristy areas.
The area between The Karel Bridge and the Old Town Square, passing by Karlova, must have the world’s biggest concentration of souvenir shops selling t-shirts, glass, amber, dolls etc to tourists with credit cards burning in their wallets. It is more fun though to shop in the pretty little shops that are slightly out of the way from the common tourist magnets. There are lots of small shops selling antiques, artworks and other exciting stuff in Nové Mesto – particularly in the SoNa area between the two large streets, Národní and Resslova, where a lot of Czech designers and artists have settled down.
If you’re looking for clothes, you should seek towards Wenceslas Square and Prague’s shopping streets that run along Na Přikopĕ: Října and Národní as well as the elegant street Pařížska in Josefov. On Wenceslas Square and in the shopping streets you will find all the usual chain stores like H&M, Benetton, Levi’s, Nike, Zara, Marks & Spencer, Adidas, C&A, Zara, Debenhams etc. The prices are significantly lower than those in their sister branches many other places in Europe.
On Pařížska you will find all the luxury brands. You can ruin yourself in Hugo Boss, Armani, Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana, Cartier, Rolex, Hermes, Versace etc. In the streets surrounding Pařížska; Dlouhá, Dušni and V Kolkvonĕ, a lot of designers have opened up shops and renamed the area “The Czech Fashion Centre”, which is also the name of the marketing alliance established by the 16 designers (www.czechfashion.cz). The shops are all decorated in good and simple taste and the clothes are neat, but not exactly cutting edge.
Refill
Pravda
If you still have money left in you wallet or on your bank account after shopping in Josefov, you can take your lunch at Pravda, which is one of Prague’s most up-scale and expensive restaurants. The food in the fancy place on Pařížska is a fusion between the European and the Asian kitchens, and all dishes on the menu are named after their country of origin. The restaurant has a fabulous wine menu and they shake great cocktails behind the bar.
Pravda, Pařížskas 17
King Salomon
If you find yourself in Josefov, an obvious alternative to Pravda is King Salomon, which is Prague’s oldest kosher restaurant.
King Salomon, Siroká 8
There is definitely a lot more than tourist souvenirs, clothes, expensive restaurants and kosher food to spend your money on in Prague.
Tea Shop
On Národní is a pretty impressive tea shop, filled with hundreds of different tea sorts. You can find tea that is most suited for porcelain and sponge cake, and tea that has a healing effect on body and soul.
Teashop, Národní 20
Botanicus
If you wish to treat your body and soul additionally, you should go by Botanicus, which can be found behind the Týn Church in Staré Mesto. In the pleasant-smelling store they sell organic soaps, oils, perfumes, lotions and potpourri. The products are exclusively made from herbs grown on the farm Ostra, northeast of Prague, where they have tried to recreate a garden from the 15th century.
Botanicus, Týn Ungelt 3
Agentura Provás
Not far from Botanicus you will find Agentura Provás, where you can buy historical posters. They sell reprints of Soviet propaganda posters and old movie- and commercial posters. The profit from the sales goes to improving the living conditions for people with physical and/or psychological handicaps.
Agentura Provás, Rybná 21
Art Deco
Across SoNa runs the street Pštrossova, which houses a beauty of a shop named Art Deco. In accordance with the name of the place, only art deco items are sold in the narrow shop. Numerous chandeliers hang from the ceiling and there are lamps, candelabras, sculptures, tables, glasses, jewelry, knick-knacks, arts and crafts and design from the 1920’s and 1930’s all over the place. You can easily get ruined here. The only thing that will hold you back is your wallet and the lack of space in your suitcase.
Art Deco, Pštrossova 35
Refill
U Mateje Kotrby
In SoNa, you can eat your lunch in brown surroundings at U Mateje Kotrby, which serves an extremely filling goulash made with Urquell lager. The waiters speak English, the beer is well-served and Czech country music plays from the loudspeakers - and so the restaurant is definitely a pleasant place to spend time.
U Mateje Kotrby, Kremencova 17
Café Rybka
After eating at U Mateje Kotrby, you can cross the street and have your coffee in the cozy book café Rybka. Young students and failed academics hang out in the sophomoric and smoke-laden atmosphere.
Café Rybka, Opatovická 7
GO NIGHT
It is fun to go out at night in Prague, where you can find something for every taste. The city’s venues are packed all week, but particularly on weekend nights. Bars and nightclubs close late and most often you don’t have to pay to get in.
In Josefov you will find the so-called “triangle of sin”, a tempting place with its numerous bars and nightclubs.
Roxy
Roxy is one of Prague’s most popular night clubs and it is located in an old shut-down theater, only a few minutes walk from the Old Town Square. The principal space is a large dance floor with an overlooking balcony. Local and international DJs mix. Roxy is not the place to go for a deep conversation over a well-prepared cocktail. But if you want cheap drinks and dancing to loud electronic music, go!
Roxy, Dlohá 33
M1
Another popular place in “the triangle of sin” is M1. You sit in the red couches that line the concrete walls of the rough and industrial space and sip your cocktail while you watch the hip and the chic let their hair down. At the bottom of the long room is the DJ booth. Particularly on weekends the mood incites you to dance.
M1, Nasná 1
Bombay Cocktail Bar
In the same street as Roxy, you will find Bombay Cocktail Bar, which gets crowded every night of the week. The place is mainly frequented by ex-pats – particularly American university students - who are evidently not just coming to enjoy the cocktails, but also the opposite sex.
Bombay Cocktail Bar, Dlouhá 13
Chateau
The American exchange students’ favorite place to go out in Prague must be Chateau, where a lot of other foreigners and Czechs come as well. In the upstairs bar there is often live music and in the basement there’s a DJ. Chateau is packed all week and it is far from Prague’s most elegant bar, but no doubt one of the liveliest!
Chateau, Jakubská 2
Radost FX
If you want to go out at night in up-scale surroundings, you should check out Radost FX, which is situated on the border of Vinohrady and Nové Mesto. Radost FX has the reputation of being Prague’s swankiest nightclub, and Ministry of Sound has elected it one of the world’s 20 best clubs. The young, beautiful and successful people come here to enjoy the wide selection of cocktails and to be seen!
Radost FX, Bĕlehradská 120
Palác Akropolis
In Žižkov you will find Palác Akropolis, which appeals to an alternative crowd. Palác Akropolis is located in an old movie theater complex. In the back of the space there is a small and cozy café and downstairs there are two bars with DJ’s who play drum & bass, reggae and funk every night. Moreover, there is a concert hall, which is a venue for big international names.
Palác Akropolis,Kubelíkova 27
Žižkov is nicknamed the gipsy area and there are many small sneaky bars where there’s often good – and sometimes pretty weird - live music. From the outside, the bars are hardly noticeable, but if you knock on the door, a doorman will open and let you into a “secret” party. The bars can be hard to find, so if you want to experience these places, the best advise is to go to Žižkov and walk around the area until you see a group of Czechs knocking on a door – and then follow in their footsteps.
GO SLEEP
987 Design Prague Hotel
987 Design Prague Hotel really makes an effort to live up to its name. The hotel is packed with furniture classics by prominent designers, such as Philippe Starck, Le Corbusier and Arne Jacobsen. There are 80 rooms in the hotel, which is located in a former residential building from 1921. The rooms are relatively small, but well arranged. Most noticeable is the dark granite looking bathrooms with bright orange doors. The hotel has an excellent location in walking-distance from all the main tourist attractions in Prague.
140 € and up
987 Design Prague Hotel, Senovážné Námĕstí 15
Hotel Yasmin
This hotel, close to the Wenceslas Square, is one of Prague’s new designer hotels. The interior design has organic shapes and the hotel is kept in light cream colors, except the bathrooms, which are black. Large mirror-ball lamps are hanging all over the reception area, from where you have access to a pleasant yard.
173 € and up
Hotel Yasmin, Politických Vĕzňů 12/913
Hotel Evropa
It can be discussed whether this hotel, located on the Wenceslas Square, should be recommended. It is totally worn-down, the beds are small, the water pipes are noisy and there is a smell of goulash everywhere! Nonetheless, you should not completely avoid the place. It is an architectural beauty, built in an extravagant Jugend style. If you skip staying over at Hotel Evropa, you should at least have a cup of coffee in the hotel’s high-ceilinged restaurant.
Room with a shower: 70 € and up
Hotel Evropa, Václavské Námĕstí 25
Hotel Páv
Hotel Páv is a small, newly renovated hotel in the middle of the SoNa neighborhood. The hotel is simple and stylishly decorated and kept in light colors.
80 € and up
Hotel Páv, Křemencova 13
La Boutique Hotel
A small and simple hotel with large, comfortable rooms. The hotel is located in the area Andel, a few minutes walk south of Mala Straná. The nearest neighbor to La Boutique Hotel is the Staropramen brewery, where you can go on a guided tour.
70 € and up
La Boutique Hotel, Staropramenna 728/3
TRANSPORTATION
To and from the airport
There are no direct buses from the airport to the center of Prague. You have to change halfway from bus to metro, which is actually very easy. The airport personnel will help you by explaining which bus and metro to catch. The price for the entire trip is 20 koruna (1€ = 28 Kč).
Another way to get to the center is by one of the shuttle taxies that go back and forth between the airport and the city center. There is room for four passengers in the taxi and the trip costs 480 koruna, no matter the amount of passengers.
And finally there is the possibility of taking your own private taxi to the center. It costs 600-700 koruna.
Getting around in Prague
Public transportation works perfectly well in Prague. The fastest way to get around is without any doubt the metro, which is very easy and manageable. Tickets can be bought at the small newspaper agents that are all over town, or in the metro stations.