Historical day... or if you will; 1001 nights
The
district Sultanahmed - beautifully situated in the foreland between The
Golden Horn and the Marmara Sea - is an enigmatic mosaic of ancient
streets and impressive cultural treasures. You should set aside the
necessary time to see Hagia Sofia, The Blue Mosque and the Topkapi
Palace, also known as the Sultan’s Palace.
If you don’t have
enough time for everything, you should choose the Topkapi Palace/The
Sultan’s Palace, which will set you in an atmosphere of 1001 Nights.
The palace was the headquarters for the sultans of the Ottoman Empire through three millenniums and is a small city in itself.
The
palace consists of many large and smaller buildings, and in order to go
through it all, count on spending around three hours here.
You
will find green spaces, mosaics, gold and the treasury in which you can
see precious stones the size of plums, extravagant ornamentation for
turbans and a diamond so big it will take your breath away.
Most
impressive of all is the harem section. Harem means “the forbidden” in
Arabic, and it marks the palace’s private section, where the sultan and
his family lived together with hundreds of odalisques.
It
costs an extra 10 YTL to enter the harem, but it’s worth it, since it’s
really in here that you get the scent of 1001 nights.
The
mother of the Sultan controlled the harem in a merciless manner, and it
was the center of the worse intrigues and murderous conspiracies. The
Sultan Murat III (1574–95) had 103 children, and only one could inherit
the crown. You can imagine the battle for the throne while you are led
through all the extravagant rooms filled with marble, glitter, gold and
mosaics.
Just like many other places in Istanbul, the Sultans
of course had a spectacular view over the Bosporus. If you need a
break, there is a restaurant and a café from where you can enjoy the
marvelous view from the palace.
Konyali is the name of the
combined café and restaurant. You can content yourself with an
overpriced cup of coffee and a few little Turkish snacks – or you can
have lunch or dinner in the restaurant that serves Turkish
specialties.
If you set aside more time to immerge in history
and experience magnificent places, you are ready to see the Blue
Mosque. Which is more than a mere remnant from days gone by, since it’s
still a mosque for active Muslims.
The building is
impressive with the cupolas and its six minarets. The mosque is a huge
space full of marble and mosaics; your head will be swimming when you
lean back to look towards the cupola above you.
The mosque is
open for visitors. As a woman, remember to dress decently, which means
in pants or a long skirt and your hair covered. As a man, forget about
wearing shorts. Everybody has to leave their shoes in a little bag. You
visit the place on bare feet or socks.
Surrounding the Blue
Mosque is a large green space. We were lucky to visit Istanbul at the
time of the Ramadan, when the entire area is transformed into a giant
public party in the evening. There were hundreds of food stalls, family
picnics on the lawn, water pipe smoking men and games for children.
Right
next to the Blue Mosque is Hagia Sophia, which is one of the world’s
most beautiful buildings and the oldest one in Istanbul. It is
constructed like a cathedral between 532 and 537 AD and in 1453 it was transformed into
a mosque. The enormous building is quiet simply breath-taking in its
shapes, materials, colors and mosaics.
The Topkapi Palace/The Sultan’s Palace. Sultanahmet.
Open 9am-4pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
The Blue Mosque, Meydad Sokak, Sultanahmet
Open 9am – 9pm (7pm Nov-April).
Hagia Sophia, Ayasofya Müzesi, Sultanahmet
Open 9am – 7pm. Closed on Mondays
The Grand Bazar
The Grand Bazar is the largest bazaar in Istanbul, and it really is enormous.
You can find anything your heart desires, not to mention all the stuff you didn’t know it desired!
Meters of gold, thousands of different kinds of buttons, fake handbags, ceramics and tin – bathed in the smell of spices.
There are almost 6000 shops in the bazaar and more than 1000 of them are gold sellers.
One
of Momondo’s favorite places is the area around Perdahcilar Sk, where
you can buy belly dancer costumes. Another thing worth looking for are
the great bath accessories like hamam slippers, soaps and all sorts of
gloves for scrubbing. Find and check out:
Abdulla + Hamam, Halicilar Carsisi Caddesi 53.
If you’re looking for carpets, go to Adnan & Hasan, Halicilar Carsisi Caddesi 89-90-92
Or if you want to bring home pretty handmade dolls, you should pay a visit to Deli Kizin Yeri, Halicilar Carsisi Caddesi 42
A
trip to the bazaar is overwhelming. You will get lots of ”special price
for you”, and you have to be in the mood for the visit. Because you
will have to say no over and over again – and haggle big-time.
The
early morning, when the bazaar wakes and the booths and streets are
washed and swept, is a good time to visit – if you want the quiet
version. If not, Saturday night is a great time. The bazaar is closed
on Sundays, so Saturday evening you can be lucky to make a good
bargain.
Sail on the Bosporus
Istanbul
is synonymous with water. The Bosporus strait is the lifeline of the
city. The fish are caught here and the strait is constantly full of
huge container ships.
Without going on a sailing trip on the Bosporus, you will not really catch the essence of Istanbul.
At
the quay in Eminönü, you board the public boat that sails in a zigzag
between the European and the Asian sides all the way up to Anadolu
Kavagi, a small Asian fishing village.
The boat leaves three times a day: at 10.35 am, 12 am and 1.35 pm.
We
recommend that you go on the early boat, so you can go all the way to
Anadolu Kavagi and have lunch, laze for a few hours and return aboard
the boat.
As a tourist, you will not be alone onboard. The
locals use the boat for transportation, but there are also quiet a few
tourists that go. But the trip is amazing. As you sit on the deck you
will witness the strait with the small dinghies and fishermen, the big
boats surrounded by seagulls and the huge container ships.
The
trip is also a good way to experience the difference between the Asian
and the European parts of Istanbul. The first time the boat puts in at
a port on the Asian side, you can sense the lower pulse.
First
stop on the Asian side is Kanlica; a posh port with lost of resorts on
the waterfront. The place is known for its rich yogurt. And this is
also where one of Istanbul’s finest seafood restaurants is located;
Körfez, Körfez Caddessi 78, is open for lunch and dinner – and really
worth visiting.
Next stop is Yeniköy on the European side. A popular vacation spot for many years.
Sariyer
– also on the European side – is next stop. Here you can find an
impressive fish market, a lot of shops and urban life. So don’t go here
if you want a quiet day in the country away from Istanbul.
The penultimate stop is sleepy Rumeli Kavagi, which is mostly brought to life when the boat puts in.
Last
stop is Anadolu Kavagi, a small Asian fishing village with lots of good
restaurants. The moment you arrive, it is easy to think that you have
fallen into a tourist trap. There are plenty of restaurants and lots of
people who will try to convince you to go to their place.
But if you go a little further, you will find some very nice places where the locals will go as well.
We
recommend Baba Restaurant, which is to the left of the pier (with the
ocean behind you), all the way down around the police station. It is a
five-minute walk to get there. Sit at one of the tables that are almost
in the water.
The food is tasty and the fish incredibly fresh. As an appetizer, you should taste their Haydari – yogurt with dill and garlic.
The
fish is served uncut. And if you visit the place between September and
January, try the fish lüfer (Blue Fish) which is best at that time of
the year.
Tickets for the sailing trip on the Bosporus can be
bought on the port, to the right of the big bridge, when your back is
turned towards the old part of town. If you want to sit on the deck or
get a window seat, you should get there at least one hour before
departure.
The sail costs around €7,5. Check the schedule at: www.ido.com.tr
Istanbul Modern
To cut a long story short: A fascinating museum where you can get a glimpse of modern Turkey.
The
rough building is located on the quay in a Klondike area and the
collection regroups art from the beginning of last century up until
now, with some of the most provocative contemporary art.
The
museum also houses a formidable restaurant/café which is perfect both
in the morning, at noon and in the evening. The food is amazing and
from the terrace you have a fabulous view over the Golden Horn and the
historical Istanbul.
The cuisine has an Italian inspiration.
Try the grilled salmon served with mashed potatoes with basil and
nutmeg and lemon-marinated salad. Or thin slices of tender lamb on a
bed of salad and parmesan.
Istanbul Modern,
Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi
www.istanbulmodern.org
Hamam
You
can’t leave Istanbul without having had a bath and a good scrub behind
your ears. You have to grant yourself a thorough body wash in a Turkish
bath, also known as Hamam.
This involves steam, marble, massage and meditation – and a look into a thousand years old and unique tradition.
Hamams
are everywhere in Istanbul – and even though it may sound boring, we
recommend that if it’s your first time, you go to one of the more
touristy places. At these places you will find lists of the different
treatments, so you know what to expect in the steam.
We went
to Cagaloglu Hamami, one of the city’s oldest bathhouses and probably
the most beautiful one. It has separate departments for men and women.
We
paid 30 euros for a scrub, a wash and a massage – and a little extra
for a special scrubbing glove. We tried out both the men’s and the
women’s department.
From the moment you step into the hamam,
the staff will take over and lead you firmly through your treatment. To
begin with, you go to your private changing room where you undress and
put on a cloth and wooden flip-flops with a leather strap.
Then
you get to the heart of the hamam; the big space with the cupola. You
can lie down and relax in the steam or you can sit by one of the big
marble sinks, turn on the golden faucet and pour the warm water over
your body.
A relaxing sensation spreads in your body,
condensed water drips from the walls and your breathing gets slower. It
is peaceful to sit in the big room where only a little daylight is let
in.
After fifteen minutes, the masseur or the masseuse shows
up. At the men’s, it was a short fat gentleman with a big moustache. At
the women’s it was a big lady (also with a moustache!) in a bathing
suit.
Then you are placed on the plateau. In the women’s
department, your cloth is removed and in the men’s, you are allowed to
keep it to cover your private parts. Now the massage and the wash can
begin.
You get scrubbed from top to toe and the only bad thing
about it is the color of the water that falls from your body. Don’t
think of where the black stuff comes from!
The massage is
really quite something. Each muscle is kneaded thoroughly. All done in
and dizzy, you are brought on to one of the big marble sinks, where you
get washed again and will have your hair washed.
If you visit
one of the more touristy places, like this one, the masseur will
probably ask you if you want an extra treatment for a special price.
At
the end, you sit in the steam and collect yourself for about five
minutes before you continue to the drying room, where you will be
rubbed in a towel from top to toe and have your hair set in a turban.
Back in the street, all red and clean as a baby!
Cagaloglu Hamami
www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr
By Mette Lomholdt