GO COPENHAGEN
BY METTE LOMHOLDT AND KATRINE SALOMON
Copenhagen is a compact and manageable city. It’s very easy to get around town on foot – or even better, on a bicycle. The city is lively without being crowded, or, as you say in Danish: it’s ”hyggelig” (cozy/pleasant/home-like)- Danes like to pride themselves that the word can’t be found in any other language. In spite of its size, there is plenty of stuff to see and explore. Danish design and great food, for starters.
OH – NO GO
The Little Mermaid. Buy a postcard instead.
”Strøget”, the main pedestrian street. Overcrowded and full of shops not worth visiting. Instead, check out ”Strædet” which is located right behind it. A pleasant pedestrian street with plenty of small quality shops and cafés.
GO AREAS
Copenhagen is a lively city, easy to find your way around. Here’s a description of its most important areas:
Inner City (Copenhagen K)
The oldest part of Copenhagen and the heart of the city, where most visitors will probably spend most of their time. You’ll find great shopping areas, beautiful parks (Kongens Have, Ørstedsparken) and lots of cafés and restaurants.
Christianshavn (Copenhagen K)
A short walk from Inner City. You cross the bridge: Knippelsbro – and you will get to the artificially constructed island: Christianshavn. A lovely neighborhood with its canals, old buildings and a possibility of fine dining (at Noma or Era Ora). This part of town is also where Christiania is located.
Vesterbro (Copenhagen V)
The old working class area, which became notorious in the 60’s, when sex shops cropped up everywhere. Now a trendy, throbbing part of Copenhagen with lots of hip shops, restaurants and bars.
Nørrebro (Copenhagen N)
The most ethnically diversed part of town where immigrants, students and old left-wingers live side by side. More of a laid-back atmosphere than in other parts of town. Lots of cafés, shops and restaurants.
Østerbro (Copenhagen Ø)
A neighborhood where you can’t walk two steps without bumping into a young mother pushing a stroller. A comfortable neighborhood with lots of high-end delis, interior design and fashion boutiques.
Frederiksberg (Copenhagen F)
For ages, the preferred area of the middle class bourgeoisie and therefore, quite anonymous. But in later years several appealing shops, restaurants and delis have emerged.
Islands Brygge
Leave Rådhuspladsen behind you, cross the bridge Langebro, and you will get to Islands Brygge. New luxury housing has surfaced along Copenhagen’s harbor in the last couple of years. This makes for an interesting mix with the neighborhood’s older buildings and its crafts and industries, adding a lively vibe to this part of town. Several up-and-coming designers and musicians have settled here. And in the summer, the possibility to go for a swim in the harbor at ”Havnebadet”, has become a true Copenhagen staple.
Outside Copenhagen
Optimists have named Klampenborg the ”Danish Riviera”. Plenty of opportunity to enjoy Arne Jakobsen’s architecture.
GO SEE & DO
Christianshavn/Christiania
Crossing Knippelsbro you arrive at Christianshavn, a pleasant and now quite fashionable part of town. A little Amsterdam, one might call it. Take a walk along the canals, enjoy a cup of coffee at one of the many cafes along the waterfront and visit the well-known Christiania. Main entrance is located in Prinsessegade.
Christiania was founded in 1971 when a group of hippies took over an abandoned military barracks and developed their own set of rules, completely independent of the Danish government.
The free city in the heart of Copenhagen has always been known for its human diversity but also for being a location where hash was sold openly on Pusher Street. In 2004 the Danish government succeeded in closing the permanent stands. Christiania has been described as a place where art thrives. There is art everywhere and often very good live-music in one of the many concert venues.
A walk in Christiania is a unique experience – everywhere you go, you will see art in the shape of sculptures, paintings and even houses. All are individually constructed do-it-yourself houses and so, greatly varied and interesting to behold.
Take a walk or join one of the guided tours. Christiania should definitely be on your Copenhagen to-do-list.
Visit Christiania´s website for more information: www.christiania.org
Good places to eat in Christianshavn/Christiania
Breakfast:
Sweet Treat, Sankt Annæ Gade 3A. Nice and simple breakfast, amazing coffee, juice and chocolate. Yummy...
http://www.sweettreat.dk/
Brunch/Lunch:
Bastionen+Løven, Lille Mølle, Christianshavns Voldgade 50, 1424 Copenhagen K
Located in historical and romantic surroundings. Lovely, traditional Danish lunch menu, renowned brunch on weekends. Don’t forget to make a reservation. http://www.bastionen-loven.dk/
Dinner:
Spiseloppen, Bådsmandsstræde 43, Christiania –
Christiania has several good dining places, but try the most popular one, “Spiseloppen” where all kinds of people come to eat. Meals are created with love and imagination. Vegetarians will love their tasty selections. The chefs come from all over the world. Servings and prizes are adapted to kids of all ages.
It is preferable to make a reservation: +45 32 57 95 58
http://www.spiseloppen.dk/
Gourmet dining in Christianshavn:
Noma: http://www.noma.dk/
or
Era Ora: http://www.era-ora.dk/
Louisiana
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is not only a museum with an impressive permanent collection. It offers world class special exhibitions as well. And the building itself it a triumph of architecture, fitting perfectly into its natural surroundings.
The trip alone to the beautiful museum makes it worthwhile. Louisiana is located 35 km north of Copenhagen and is rapidly reached by the freeway E47/E55.
But you are strongly encouraged go drive via “Strandvejen”, along the coast of Øresund. Or even better, go by train. It takes only 36 minutes from Copenhagen + a 10 minute walk from the train station Humlebæk/Louisiana.
You can buy a combined transport and museum entrance ticket with a discount in every train station in the metropolitan area. Trains leave from Hovedbanegården (Central Station), Nørreport, Østerport, Hellerup and Klampenborg every 20 minutes, even more frequently during rush hours.
The museum is situated in an old park on the North Zealand coast, with a fine view of Sweden across the Sound.
Louisiana is not merely an experience in modern and contemporary art, but a congenial reflection of the interplay between art, architecture and landscape.
The park serves as an ideal setting for displaying the museums collection of modern sculptures.
The relaxing atmosphere, the museum’s permanent collection, changing art exhibitions, films, concerts, the children’s wing, the café service indoors and outdoors, the museum shop with its large selection of books, art reproductions, graphics, posters, postcards, design and classical CDs - all combine in making Louisiana a pleasure to visit.
The café offers a wide selection of Danish lunch classics, coffee and tea. And as a novelty, you can have a “Wednesday-dinner” every Wednesday evening for only 128 DKR.
It houses an exquisite collection of modern art by international artists such as Arp, Francis Bacon, Calder, Dubuffet, Max Ernst, Sam Francis, Giacometti, Kiefer, Henry Moore, Picasso, Rauschenberg and Warhol.
Every year, the Louisiana Museum shows six to eight major exhibitions of modern and contemporary art, including classical masters of modern art as well as new and up-and-coming international artists.
In the fall of 2007, September 5 – December 2, we particularly recommend the exhibit of the works of the immensely successful young Danish artist Tal R.
Similarly, the prominent museum buildings, constructed between 1958 and 1998, offer a fascinating background for the permanent collection of twentieth century art.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art,
Gammel Strandvej 13,
3050 Humlebæk
http://louisiana.dk/
Biking
Let’s face it, Copenhagen is flat. But this means that getting around by bike is a pleasure and possibly the easiest form of transportation in Inner City.
The bike is the preferred means of transportation among Copenhageners – they are all over the place. So whether you choose the “steel horse”, or prefer to watch the others putting their strength against it, be considerate. Do not use the bike lane as a sidewalk – or the other way around, for that matter.
The best months for biking are between May and November. But Copenhageners bike all year round in all kinds of weather.
Rent a bike
Many hotels rent or lend out bikes. But there are several places where you can rent great bikes for a small amount of money.
http://www.oesterport-cykler.dk/Rent+a+bike/Engelsk.html
On this page you will find the rates for all the bikes and trailers. You can rent for a company or individually. At big company events, special arrangements can be made.
http://www.cykelboersen.dk/english.html
Delivery and pick-up service available anywhere.
Special offers: Forest trips with picnic included. Triplex, rickshaws, bicycle cars.
How to Bike
If you are not used to riding a bike frequently it can be quite a challenge. Good advice is always to keep right, stick to the bicycle lanes and keep a good eye on traffic.
Guide on How to bike: http://www.useit.dk/?node=92
Istedgade by Night
True Copenhagen atmosphere. We give no guarantees, but we ought to think you will be quite safe, even though it is a rocky neighborhood. Hanging out on the corner of Istedgade and Abel Cathrines gade at 10 P.M. on a Friday night is an experience in itself. Prostitutes and their clients making their arrangements right in front of you, Gambian dealers screaming their discontent into their mobile phones. The tattoo shops with ongoing business in the window and all the sex shops in the middle of young local café latte drinkers strolling by in high heels and slim pants. In front of the church, Mariakirken, the drug dealers solicit and hang out in the company of dogs...
Istedgade is more than hookers and beggars; it is also a very popular neighborhood with young people and families with small children.
Cinemateket and La Glace
On a rainy day, we recommend going to the movies. And after that, a sweet treat.
Cinemateket is a part of the Danish Film Institute. It is located in the middle of Copenhagen – next to Kongens Have and shows subtitled films in their original language. In the lobby you can search the Videotek, pick your choice and watch a wide selection of films.
Cinemateket has its own restaurant called SULT. It is open for lunch and dinner. But it is mostly renowned for its brunch on weekends, served between 10 A.M. and 3 P.M.
Konditori La Glace is the oldest and one of the best patisseries in Denmark. La Glace was founded in 1870 in the center of old Copenhagen. It is still famous in Denmark for their fancy and luxurious cakes.
Remember to pick a number and queue up (there is no service at the table) and dive into an abundance of cream, chocolate and macaroons.
Relax in the old settings kept in dark green and peach colored walls and remember to visit the back of the patisserie, where photographs from the original shop are exhibited.
The clientele varies from young girls on shopping sprees with their mums and old ladies sitting at their regular seats on the small leather couches.
We particularly recommend The Othello cake; a layer cake made of vanilla custard and chocolate icing. It is named after Shakespeare’s Othello, symbolizing the pairing of black and white. (In Germany, the cake is called ‘Mohrenkopf’)
The Sports cake is the La Glace signature cake and famous in Denmark. It is often used at opening galas and in TV-shows. The cake was named in 1891 after a Danish play premiering in Copenhagen called the ‘Sportsmen’. A layer cake with crushed nougat in whipped cream, macaroon and éclairs dipped in caramel. This is La Glace’s number one seller!
Our absolute favorite is the Sarah Bernhardt cake. Petite cakes consisting of a macaroon bottom and chocolate truffle dipped in liquid chocolate.
Sarah Bernhardt was a Parisian actress who visited Copenhagen in 1880 and was honored by naming the cake after her. This cake is of Danish origin and found only in Denmark.
La Glace Skoubogade 3-5, Copenhagen K- www.laglace.dk
Cinemateket, Gothersgade 55, Copenhagen K -www.cinemateket.dk
A walk around the lakes or in “Dyrehaven”
The Lakes
The Lakes in Copenhagen stretch from Østerbro to Vesterbro and is one of the oldest and most characteristic features of Copenhagen.
Originally, the lakes served as reservoirs for drinking water. But today, the lakes are a popular place to go for a walk, a run or just to sit on one of the benches and enjoy the beautiful view. The four lakes are a favorite hangout spot for Copenhageners, particularly on Sundays where life is busy here, no matter the time of year.
There are plenty of cafés along the four lakes. Try one of the following:
Kaffesalonen,
Peblinge Dossering 6, Copenhagen N
It faces one of the lakes. A lively place with great burgers for a hung-over Sunday. During weekdays they serve breakfast from 8 A.M. On weekends from 10 A.M.
If you reach the Vesterbro-part of the lakes, walk for an additional 5 minutes, and you will get to the fabulous tea salon: Tante-T, Viktoriagade 6, Copenhagen V
Besides all sorts of tea (and in spite of the name of the place, they serve wonderful coffee as well)), hot chocolate and juices, you will find homemade bread, muffins, pies and cakes. The mother of one of the owners is responsible for the homemade bakery, which she serves up on a daily basis.
http://www.tante-t.dk/?setlanguage=1&language=en
At the opposite end of the lakes, in the Østerbro part, you can visit
Den Franske Café,
Sortedam Dossering 101, Copenhagen Ø.
On the bank of the lake, right off the large street Østerbrogade, you can enjoy the view of the swans while you enjoy a marinated herring (Christiansøsild), traditional Danish meat balls (frikadeller) or a Chicken Salad. Don’t be fooled by the name of the place (The French Café!) - most dishes are very Danish.
“Dyrehaven”, north of Copenhagen.
Jump on a train to Klampenborg station (line C) 10 km north of Copenhagen, and you will get to “Dyrehaven”, one of the most beautiful nature reserves in Denmark. Deer are grazing freely on the 1000 acres of fenced territory. The train ride from Copenhagen lasts around 20 minutes. Go for a long walk or take a trip in a horse carriage.
Walk by the Eremitage, and enjoy the beautiful Eremitage Castle of Christian VI; a royal hunting chalet and a fine example of late baroque Danish architecture.
Finish your trip with a cup of hot chocolate at Peter Lieps Restaurant.
Peter Lieps Hus, Dyrehaven 8
http://www.peterliep.dk/
Bellevue
When you get to Klampenborg Station, if you make a right (and not a left towards Dyrehaven), you will get to the sea – the beach of Bellevue. Here are plenty of opportunities to check out Arne Jacobsen’s architecture. Do not miss a visit to Restaurant Jakobsen, Strandvejen 449, Klampenborg. Everything from chairs to tea spoons is Arne Jakobsen’s design.
GO EAT
Most Danes take breakfast at home around a copious breakfast table. This means that many cafés will not be open for brunch/lunch before 10 A.M. But in later years, several places have opened their doors around 8 or 9 A.M.
Among them:
Cafe Europa, Amagertorv 1 Copenhagen K – opens at 8 A.M.
Pussy Galores, Sankt Hans Torv 30 Copenhagen N – opens at 8 A.M. on weekdays. At 9 A.M. on weekends.
The Coffee Factory, Gothersgade 21, Copenhagen K – opens at 7.30 on weekdays. Saturdays at 9 A.M. Sundays at 12 A.M.
Kaffesalonen, Peblinge Dossering 6 Copenhagen N – opens at 8 A.M. on weekdays. Weekends at 10 A.M.
Coffee at Delores, Frederiksborggade 18 Copenhagen K – opens at 8 A.M. on weekdays, Saturdays at 10 A.M. Sundays closed.
Bang & Jensen, Istedgade 130, 1650 Copenhagen V – opens at 8 A.M. on weekdays, weekends at 10 A.M.
The restaurant kitchens close early at night. Most at 10 P.M., but even 9.30 P.M. is not unusual. This means that Copenhageners go out for dinner at around 7 or 8 P.M., and then they flock to the bars.
Meyers Deli
Gammel Kongevej 107,
Frederiksberg, open 8.30 A.M. to 10 P.M.
http://www.meyersmad.dk
Claus Meyer is a famous Danish who is passionate about quality products. A few years ago he opened his first delicatessen in Frederiksberg – a fusion of restaurant, grocery store, coffee bar and take-away.
The atmosphere is informal. You sit at big shared tables without cloths – and you have to be prepared for a little self-service. You order and pay at the bar, and when your food is ready, the waiters will serve it at your table. You are rewarded with a quality meal at very reasonable prices.
As a novelty, Meyers Deli has moved into the department store Magasin, Kongens Nytorv 13, Copenhagen K
At the basement level of Magasin you will find Meyers combined deli, coffee bar and diner. All the bread is from their own bakery and all food is entirely home-made.
Geranium
In the beautiful gardens of Kongens Have, you will find one of Copenhagen’s latest gourmet restaurants. It is not cheap, but if you are going for an exceptional dining experience, this is the place to go.
Geranium is run by Rasmus Kofoed, who has an impressive resume as one of the best and most innovative young chefs in Copenhagen.
As a child, he went to an alternative school and was raised with biodynamic vegetables and an awareness of animal rights. Therefore, you will not find any fat liver from crammed French geese on his menu, highly unusual for a gourmet restaurant. In other words, if you are going for foie gras, it will be in vain. On the other hand, vegetarians will enjoy their green gourmet menu.
The white restaurant in the beautiful park is light and airy, which gives you the impression of sitting outside. The place has the atmosphere of a summerhouse in days gone by, but the furnishing is tight and up-to-date, so there is no doubt that you find yourself in the elite of the new Danish cuisine.
Geranium is expensive. A full course menu costs 738 DKR and a wine menu is the same. So two people should count on a total of 3000 DKR, unless you want to try the unspecified vegetarian menu, which costs 538 DKR.
As the only chef in the world, Rasmus Kofoed possesses two Bocuse d’Or medals - bronze in 2005 and silver in 2007 – the chefs’ world championship. His partner at Geranium is another famous chef, Søren Ledet, also the winner of several awards and with a past at the Danish gourmet restaurant, Noma.
Both are fervent believers in quality products, the products’ history and of course their taste. They are capable of creating precisely the atmosphere of enchantment and seduction, which the location deserves. The concept is to use organic, biodynamical or properly grown products.
For lunch, you can enter Restaurant Geranium through the eastern part of Kongens Have. At night, the park is closed, so you enter at Kronprinsessegade 13, opposite Dronningens Tværgade.
Note: In Denmark, Rasmus Kofoed may be best known as the chef who was fired from the restaurant at the Hotel d’Angleterre, because he thought it was irreconcilable with the cuisine’s ambitions, that they had to serve fried fish and hamburgers.
Restaurant Geranium, Kronprinsessegade 13, Copenhagen K
Closed on Mondays. The kitchen closes at 9.30 P.M.
www.restaurantgeranium.dk/
Check out other places for gourmet dining:
http://www.aok.dk/search?type=grid&flavor_id=2&cw1=42&sort=rank
desc&context=english&histo_name=Gourmet+restaurants
Aamann's
If you are a lover of Danish open sandwiches (the unpronounceable “smørrebrød”) or if you are tempted to try - Aamann's is a good place to go.
At Aamann's they both challenge and respect the old Danish “smørrebrød” traditions. The atmosphere is informal and everything is prepared on the spot.
Aamann's is a deli, a diner and a take-away joint, all in one place. You can get freshly prepared or ready-made “smørrebrød” to take away. Or you can eat at the premises and pay an extra 20%. The selection of “smørrebrød” changes every other month, but among previous suggestions you could find:
Cold-smoked autumn herring with new Danish potatoes, capers, lovage and spring onions tossed in elderberry vinaigrette.
The dainties are of course being served on Aamann’s homemade bread. The cold counter is filled with various delicacies; homemade sausages, venison sausage, pickled beets and other goodies that you can bring home to please your family or yourself, if you appreciate genuine gastronomy and Danish food culture.
Aamann's
Øster Farimagsgade 10, 2100 Copenhagen Ø
www.aamanns.dk
Danish “smørrebrød” – a classic!
“Smørrebrød” means butter (smør) + bread (brød), and is a Danish/Nordic specialty. It consists of a slice of rye bread with a small or large quantity of meat or fish and condiments on top. Some call it an “open sandwich”
The “smørrebrød” was originally just a hunk of bread and butter filled with cheese or sausage. They were brought in a basket to the workers in the fields. The heavily covered “smørrebrød” was invented in the 1880's, where small restaurants appeared in Copenhagen and served only “smørrebrød”.
Various classics among “smørrebrød” even have names: Sol over Gudhjem (Sunny Gudhjem) (rye bread, smoked herring, chives or onion and a raw egg yolk), Dyrlægens natmad (The Vet’s Midnight Snack) (rye bread, liver pâté, veal sausage, onion and gravy) and Stjerneskud (Shooting Star) (white bread, salad, tomato, fried fish, steamed fish, shrimps and caviar).
Remember to treat yourself to a beer along with your “smørrebrød” – and maybe even a Danish schnaps. “Skål!” (Cheers!)
Umami - The Copenhagen Nobu!
Store Kongensgade 59, Copenhagen K
Friday night, Umami is one of the most funky places to dine in Copenhagen. The fashion crowd, musicians and other creative people crowd on the small leather couches in the booths. If you make a booking, make sure you get a table on the top floor, where all the action takes place.
In regards to interior decoration, Umami is at the level of the top restaurants in London or Barcelona. It is open for lunch and without interruption until the bar closes at 1 P.M. At the long bar on the ground level, you can order a Kirin beer or a Martini cocktail made from gin and lemon grass saké, while the DJ regales with lounge- and jazz music.
Umami offers a groovy list of cocktails. You should try their signature drink “Umami Ginger Passion”, a refreshing mix of ginger, lime, litchi liqueur, passion fruit and shochu, which is a Japanese liquor made from rice or wheat. The taste is slightly milder than vodka. Umami’s wine list offers a good selection of whites and reds, served by the glass as well, and a selection of Champagne, i.e. Bollinger – which comes by the glass as well - Louis Roederer and Krug.
Not only does Umami have a particular menu for Saké – but according to themselves, they carry the largest selection of the Japanese national beverage in Europe. They serve only premium Saké, which is called ginjõ in Japanese and is of the finest category.
Both the sushi and warm Japanese dishes served at Umami have the touch of a French chef. You can celebrate Friday Night Fever with vintage Champagne, sea urchin and Kobe beef from cows that have been raised on beer and massages.
Omakase is the Japanese expression for leaving everything between the hands of the chef, who gets to create the most outstanding meal. If you order the Omakase-menu, you owe yourself the matching wine menu.
www.restaurantumami.dk
Lê Lë Nhà Hang
Vesterbrogade 40, Copenhagen V
Excellent Vietnamese food. Be prepared to spend a little time in line or waiting at the bar. Enjoy a cocktail or one of Lê Lë’s special lemonades. Yummy…
Once you get a table, your food will be served quickly. The prices are low and the food is very good - a variation of the Vietnamese cuisine, based on the street kitchen tradition. The atmosphere is lively – it is a large dining room with busy waiters, as the restaurant is full almost every day of the year.
We recommend the beef salad and the fresh spring rolls.
GO SHOP
You will find the best places for shopping in Inner City (Copenhagen K)– around Kronprinsensgade, packed with young design boutiques, and around Grønnegade/Ny Østergade, where you can find all the fine brands at Birger Christensen, high-street stores like H&M, Topshop and Urban Outfitters as well as the department stores: Magasin og Illum. Try to avoid the large pedestrian street, “Strøget” – walk behind it, along Strædet, where you will find a lot of charming boutiques.
If you are looking for antiques or art galleries, go to Store Kongensgade or Bredgade close to Kongens Nytorv.
But you can also visit the neighboring areas for a shopping spree. Try Elmegade in Nørrebro (Copenhagen N) and Istedgade in Vesterbro (Copenhagen V). Both areas are packed with hip shops and up-and-coming young Danish designers.
Or go to Østerbrogade in Østerbro (Copenhagen Ø).
Inner City
Tekinoktay Finest Lingerie, Silkegade 13, Copenhagen K
Entering Tekinoktay Finest Lingerie makes your stomach tickle like a kid in a candy store! The most adorable lingerie, briefs and little, light cardigans. The finest silk scarves in every shade of pastel and sharp colors. Soft, silk covered hangers, silk cat suits, perfumes and the scent of Fifi Chachnill.
The boutique is a medley of an old boudoir and a hip urban store.
The owner, Evren Tekinoktay is an artist and her own experience in a lingerie shop in Berlin gave her the idea for the beautiful little boutique in Silkegade, where you can actually find the Berlin brand, Blush.
A. C. Perchs Thehandel,
Kronprinsessegade 5, Copenhagen K
A legendary tea shop which was founded in 1835. Tea-aficionados are in heaven, facing all the jars filled with delicious teas behind the old wooden counters. The experienced sales people with their impeccable green aprons are very competent and able to give you expert advice and answer any question you might have.
The tea is meticulously wrapped in small packages with a little stick to carry it, as in the good old days. All children will be offered hand crafted candy when leaving the shop.
But don’t ask for coffee – it will only spoil the good atmosphere...
Recently, Perch’s opened a tea salon: Perch’s Tea Room, which is located one flight above the shop. A perfect oasis for a relaxing time. Enjoy the large selection of teas from all over the world, served with yummy scones, petit fours or delicious small sandwiches.
http://www.perchs.dk/engelsk/index.asp
Kassandra, Grønnegade 27, Copenhagen K
The best shoe store in Copenhagen. It is divided in two shops, located side-by-side. Don’t forget to visit both.
Lot#29,
Gothersgade 29, Copenhagen K
Clothing & Fashion, designer brands and amazing jewelry by goldsmith Line Halberg
Pede og Stoffer,
Klosterstræde 15+19, Copenhagen K
Two great stores with an amazing collection of street wear and designer brands. One shop for men, one for women.
Wood Wood,
Krystalgade 4 + 7, Copenhagen K
New and successful brand in Denmark. Street wear og lots of exquisite designer brands.
http://www.woodwood.dk
Vesterbro (Copenhagen V)
During the last 10 years, Vesterbro has changed from a working class area with lots of junkies into a hip neighborhood in rapid development. The junkies are still here, as well as the sex shops – but so are the families with small children, the students – and all the interesting shops.
Vesterbrogade is a packed shopping street – but Istedgade is something really special.
Donn Ya Doll,
Istedgade 55
Go exploring a sparkling and vivacious shop that sells everything from handbags in the shape of a piano to card games with pictures of The Beatles and disco balls. As well as lots of Scandinavian designer clothes.
Asfalt,
Istedgade 83
Danish designer Hanne Zachariassen is behind the counter in this small shop crammed with her own colorful designs. The clothes are a mixture of new inventions and altered vintage clothing, for both women and men. The look is authentic Vesterbro-ish with a twist.
Hornecker,
Istedgade 43A
A lovely store full of shoes at all price levels.
Sommerlund,
Istedgade 110
You can find the most amazing dresses here. If you are going to a wedding or another big bash that demands a little extra, swing by Katrine Sommerlund’s shop. She creates the most beautiful corsage dresses in the 50’s style with details like bows or flowers.
+ Laboratorium,
Istedgade 92
When you are in Istedgade, pay a visit to + Laboratorium.
+Laboratorium is an experimenting art-group, a gallery and a commercial design brand at the same time! They are devoted to architecture, art, design, and especially how these three fields can interact and inspire each other.
Check up on current exhibitions at: http://www.pluslaboratorium.com
Refill
There are lots of places to have a good lunch in Istedgade or in the small side streets.
Bang og Jensen, Istedgade 130
Sticks and Sushi, Istedgade 62
Riccos kaffebar, Istedgade 119,
Nørrebro ((Copenhagen N)
Nørrebro is the most varied area in Copenhagen. Lots of immigrant stores filled with gold and glitter, cafés, pubs and shops.
In Ravnsborggade you will find some of the best second-hand and antique dealers in the city. Take your time...
At the border between inner and outer Nørrebro is the street Jægersborggade where new shops pop up almost every day. Lots of cute designer shops, juice bars and cafés. Catch a bus from Inner City and get off at Nørrebros Runddel. Walk left on Jagtvej and Jægersborggade is the fourth street on your right.
Elmegade and the surrounding streets is another good area for shopping. Worth mentioning are:
Bark, Elmegade 26
Two young up-and-coming female designers. Simple Danish design with fun details.
Hooha, Elmegade 14
A hip store selling t-shirts and hats with funky prints.
Fünf, Elmegade 2
A group of young designers sell their stuff at this lovely shop. http://www.funf.dk/
Refill
The Laundromat Café, Elmegade 15
A place to do your laundry while eating...
Østerbro (Copenhagen Ø)
Østerbro is a more bourgeois part of Copenhagen with its big apartments and foreign embassies. On Østerbrogade and in the side streets there are lots of great shops. You should try:
Moshi Moshi,
Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 34
Every item has been picked with care. The best Danish and international design.
Moshi Moshi Mind,
Dag Hammarskjolds Allé 40
Moshi Moshi’s little sister... A wellness shop where you can find silky and velvety clothes for staying home or exercising - as well as lotions and teas.
Voigt,
Østerbrogade 110
A tiny shop full of – or rather, packed with – an impressive selection of Danish quality brands. The service is even more impressive. There is always somebody to help you out and give you competent advise.
Camilla S & Stoltze,
Classensgade 18
A one-of-a-kind boutique with the most beautiful jewelry (by Stoltze) and amazing clothes, designed and made by Camilla S.
Lola Pagola,
Classensgade 4
A luxurious ladies’ shoes boutique which also carries a small selection of exclusive hand bags and stockings. There is no doubt that the owner, Charlotte, has a love affair with shoes.
Refill
Kaffeplantagen, Classensgade 11
Great coffee and delicious sandwiches and salads.
GO NIGHT
Inner City
Inner City is full of places for a night out, but as in most big cities, a lot of the night life has moved to the surrounding residential areas. This doesn’t signify that Inner City is not worth exploring. You can try the following places:
Bar Rouge at Hotel Skt. Petri,
Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen K.
They offer great drinks and a high-flying atmosphere. This is the place where the glitterati, showbiz people and those who believe that this is a trendy place get together. Fridays and Saturdays DJs pump up the spirit.
Jazz House,
Niels Hemmingsensgade 10, Copenhagen K.
A cozy live music venue and one of the few places where you will not feel completely ridiculous if you are over 35. After concert hours, the places changes into a night club on weekends. Very relaxed atmosphere and no dress code.
Check out the concert program at: http://www.jazzhouse.dk/
Nasa Nightclub,
Gothersgade 8F, Copenhagen K.
The only bar in Copenhagen that sticks religiously to a guest list and a dress code. Never the less, the white bar is crowded every single weekend. A place for the in crowd and the wannabes. It is possible to get in without being on the guest list, but in order to make sure – get in touch with Kim Thurmann for a table reservation and booking: +45 40 40 75 52, mail: kim@nasa.dk
Nadsat: The young crowd – out partying.
If you like good drinks, dim lighting, comfortable couches and cozy corners, Nadsat is our idea of a great place. You have a party moment on the dance floor, or you can check out the floor from the bar. The musical profile of Nadsat is always electronic, and the people behind it are able to attract famous DJ’s. No matter the celebrity degree of the DJ, the fee to get in stays at 30 DKR.
Nadsat is located in the heart of Copenhagen, off Strøget.
In the day time, the place is a café where you can use the wireless Internet access free of charge. The age level is around 25-30 and the affordable price level makes it very popular among students. Beers cost from 25 DKR and up, and drinks from 45 DKR and up. Check out their program at:
www.nadsat.dk.
Nadsat,
Hyskenstræde 10, Copenhagen K
”K” Bar – the best cocktail bar in the city
If you want to drink cocktails in Copenhagen, K Bar is second to none. The minimalist lounge is located in the old, scenic part of the city, near Højbro Plads and the beautiful canals.
The bar is named after is owner, Kirsten, an award winning bartender with more than 25 years of experience. Heart and soul is poured into the cocktails, and they are not stingy with the booze. “A cocktail should have some taste” as Kirsten says.
Kirsten is the Martini Master of Copenhagen. You will find 13 varieties on the menu, one of them named: “Monster Martini”. And with a generous 10 cl of alcohol, it lives up to its name. You can always get the classics, but the menu changes all of the time, since Kirsten wants to challenge your taste buds!
K-bar,
Ved Stranden 20 - Copenhagen K
http://www.k-bar.dk/
Vesterbro
Particularly the area around Istedgade is packed with cafés, cocktail lounges, restaurants and seedy bars. Trendy people mix it up with students, hookers and pickpockets. That unique cocktail makes the area worth a visit.
Vega, Enghavevej 40 – live music on two stages: Store (Big) and Lille (Little) Vega. And later at night, Vega Nightclub and Ideal Bar.
Ideal Bar
The Ideal Bar is the place to be on a night when you want to hear some music. They have DJs and live bands on weekends and you can dance and sing all night long. You can choose to dress up or down, just get ready to have a good time with the younger crowd of Copenhagen.
Gossip note: This is where the Danish Crown Prince Frederik and Crown Princess Mary had a big bash of a party for 300 friends and young royals of Europe a few days before their wedding.
http://www.vega.dk/
Boutique Lize, Enghave Plads 6 – the place to go if you are looking for a cocktail and an authentic young Vesterbro atmosphere.
The former ladies’ wear shop for older Vesterbro women has been transformed into a trendy cocktail bar. Besides the classic cocktails and long drinks, the bartenders demonstrate their own inventions. If you don’t want to line up, get there before 10 P.M. Later at night there’s a long line in the street.
Nørrebro
Nørrebro is always full of life – every day of the week and around the clock. When night falls, the area around Elmegade is worth a visit. Check out:
Oakroom, Birkegade 10 – a cocktail bar with all the good stuff. And a very cozy place, not as posh as other cocktail lounges. The clients are students, showbiz people and, generally speaking, a happy crowd, mostly under 40.
Behind the bar, they know the art of shaking. You can get Martinis, cocktails, smashes, juleps, highballs and frozen drinks. The names as well as the recipes are exotic. The bar also offers a selection of imported beer and a wine menu with affordable prizes. http://www.oakroom.dk/
GO SLEEP
BERTRAM Hotel Guldsmeden,
Vesterbrogade 107, Copenhagen V
A consistently cozy quality hotel.
The hotel’s interior design is one big contradiction. French colonial style with dark wooden furniture, gentle colors and four-poster beds and tubs on lion feet in most rooms. But also the latest modern technology and free wireless Internet access in all rooms.
The hotel’s manager is Sandra Plesner Weinert, who just received the European business award "Le Prix Madame Commerce de France". Today she manages the smallest chain of hotels in Denmark – three hotels all together – and her trademark is based on ecologically responsible products.
And you can sense and taste it. Everything you eat here is organic if possible and in the bathrooms you will find aroma therapeutic products.
http://www.hotelguldsmeden.com/bertrams.html
Radisson SAS Royal,
Hammerichsgade 1, Copenhagen V
Arne Jakobsen designed the hotel, and if you are a great fan of his, you should book room number 606 which has been kept in its original design.
The hotel is located right next to throbbing Vesterbro, the central station: Hovedbanegården, Tivoli and the city hall square: Rådhuspladsen.
http://www.radissonsas.com/
First Hotel - Sankt Petri,
Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen K
A designer hotel in the center of Copenhagen. The place is full of life around the clock, particularly on weekends, where the hotel’s bar, Bar Rouge, attracts the local jet set. Skt. Petri is also the place where many celebrities choose to stay when visiting Copenhagen. Gossip note: Justin T recently held court at the hotel...
http://www.hotelsktpetri.com/
Danhostel,
H.C. Andersens Boulevard 50, Copenhagen V (Langebro)
A five star location on the waterfront and close to Rådhuspladsen. The rooms are fine. The Danish design company GUBI has decorated the entire hotel. A suggestion for a good and cheap hotel in the very center. http://www.danhostel.dk/vandrerhjem.asp?id=144
Skovshoved Hotel,
Strandvejen 267, 2920 Charlottenlund
(her mangler en reportage som Katrine skriver)
http://www.skovshovedhotel.dk/
Links that will make your stay in Copenhagen easier...
http://www.aok.dk/section/english - a guide to eating, shopping etc.
www.visitcopenhagen.com - the official guide to Copenhagen
www.cph.dk - airport information
http://www.dmi.dk/eng/index/forecasts.htm - weather report in English
http://www.copenhagenpost.dk/ - news in English
TRANSPORT
Getting from and to the airport
Copenhagen has the shortest distance from the international airport to the city centre of all the European capitals.
Beneath Terminal 3, which is where you arrive and pass through customs, there is a train station. From here you have a twelve minute train ride to the Central Station in Copenhagen (Hovedbanegården). During the day, these trains run every ten minutes.
The fare is DKK 27, if you have Danish change, you can buy it from a machine.
There is, however, also the possibility of purchasing a CPHCARD, which you can use during your stay. This card gives free transportation in the greater Copenhagen area including to and from the airport.
Taxis are, naturally, available at the airport. You'll find them in front of Terminals 1 and 3.
Several lines go from the Kastrup Airport to downtown Copenhagen and a few bring you across the Øresund Bridge to Malmö in Sweden.
Getting around in Copenhagen
Metro
Finally, Copenhagen has gotten its Metro. Unfortunately, it isn’t very developed yet. But it’s great to use if you are going where the metro is. All metro stations are marked with a red M. It runs from Vanløse Station to Lergravsparken in East Amager, to Ørestad in West Amager and to Frederiksberg.
Metro information: http://www.m.dk/en/welcome
Taxi
There are lots of taxies in the city and all taxies in Copenhagen are licensed by the authorities and are equipped with meters. Taxies can be flagged down anywhere in the streets of Copenhagen. If the yellow "Taxa" light on the roof of the car or in the front window is on, the taxi is available for hire.
The meter starts at DKK 19 when hailed on the street and DKK 32 when you book over the phone.
Fares include a service charge, so tips are not expected.
Most taxis accept major credit cards. Should you wish to pay with a credit card, let the driver know before beginning the trip. On request, taxi drivers will provide you with a computerized receipt for the fare.
Bus
All buses are yellow and entrance is in the front. Bus stops are marked with yellow signs.
Night buses are available every night in the city as well as to many suburbs and surrounding towns from 01.00 am - 05.00 am.
Harbor busses sails in the Copenhagen Harbor from the Royal Library to The Little Mermaid making stops in Nyhavn and by the opera house.
Plan your trip here: http://www.rejseplanen.dk/
Bike
Copenhagen is a fantastic city for biking. It is the perfect way to experience this city. Read the chapter on biking in “What to see/do”.
Train
There are three different kinds of trains in Copenhagen.
S-train: These trains take you to and from the city from early morning till late night.
Regional trains: There are frequent train connections between Copenhagen and other parts of Denmark. The trains depart from Copenhagen Central Station or the station at Copenhagen Airport. Thanks to the bridge between Sealand and Funen, the travel time from eastern to western Denmark is short.
Øresund trains: The Øresund train connects Copenhagen and Malmö. The train stops at Copenhagen Airport, Kastrup, on its way to Sweden.