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Barcelona

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en by Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 13. Sep 2008

 

It was halfway through the concert when Harry Connick Jr. suddenly told his musicians to stop. The American bandleader had a long look around the rich decoration of Palau de la Música. Then he said: “I’m sure these sculptures are very important to your cultural heritage. But, Jesus, they really freak me out!

Connick Jr. is right. Barcelona’s old music hall, build a hundred years ago by one of architect madman Gaudís colleagues, is a freaky place. At one side of the stage a bust of Beethoven is almost run over by a bunch of wild Wagner-valkyries in a wagon. Behind it a series of muses look like Inca-mummies buried halfway into the wall. And at the back of the hall two enormous Pegasus horses jump right out over your head.

The place is simply too much but that’s exactly what I love about it. A night at El Palau is like being part of a weird fairytale. And strange as it may seem it is also a perfect setting for all kinds of events. I have seen gigs as different as the Danish Radio Big Band, flamenco singer Diego ‘El Cigala’ and noise rockers The Tindersticks perform here and all were brilliant.

There is almost always something interesting on at El Palau and if not it’s worthwhile a visit anyway. You just close your ears and open your eyes.

Guided tours are available everyday from 9.00 to 15.30.

Palau de la Música Catalana, C/ Sant Pere Més Alt, s/n.                     

Published by
en by Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 18. Aug 2008

Downtown Barcelona is great. Sometimes, though, you get tired of the slick, international atmosphere and the neatly designed but overpriced restaurants.


Café-life in Poble Nou                                                                                       Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

Sometimes you feel like some genuine, Spanish neighbourhood-life; like a strong café solo at a shabby Manolo-bar while you listen to loud discussions about FC Barcelona’s latest match, labourers shouting obscenities at bypassing ‘señoritas’ and old women quarrelling with their dogs.

It’s quite easy to find. You just have to get away from the centre and head for ‘barrios’ like Poble Sec, Sants, Gracia or Clot.


Café-life in Poble Nou                                                                                      Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

For me the nearest choice is Poble Nou. Once known as ‘Catalan Manchester’ because of its many textile factories and as a stronghold for Barcelona’s anarchist movement this old working class neighbourhood is changing fast but still conserves its industrial charm.

The most interesting part is the one near the market and in particular the Rambla de Poble Nou, a semi-pedestrian street that gives you an idea of what the famous Rambla at the centre must have been like before it became permanently flooded with tourists.

There are several good bars around and a couple of brilliant restaurants. My favourite is called Barlovento, a small and economic tapasbar with a nice terrace facing the Rambla. Apart from the seafood you should also try the snails in spicy sauce and the blood sausage.
             
Barlovento, Rambla del Poble Nou, 21. Metro: Poble Nou.

Open Tuesdays to Sundays from 8.00 to 24.00 (kitchen closes at 23.00). Mondays closed. Metro: Poble Nou. 
 

Published by
en by Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 26. Jul 2008


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm 

I used to live in a small flat at La Barceloneta. During the recurrent heat waves of the Spanish summer it often got so hot that I had to sleep with my head out on the balcony to be able to breath. On nights like that the best idea was to get out of ‘bed’ and walk down to the nearby beach.

A smooth sea breeze would embrace me and I would sit down in the sand with a beer watching the anglers with their long poles or reading a book in the light from the lampposts until it got cold enough to sleep.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

Some people still mourn the traditional stall restaurants that covered the Barceloneta beach before the Olympic Games of 1992. I’m sure they were great but so are the four kilometres of playas left by the reforms and unmatched by any other European city.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

Also because beach life in Barcelona includes a lot more than the obvious swimming, sunbathing and ‘girlspotting’. You’ll see old men play domino, cards or a local variety of tennis hitting the ball directly with their hands. Others work out, fly kites, surf or play volleyball. And yet others prefer to watch it all from one of the many beach bars.

If you like swimming but hate sand try the sea baths at the northern end of the beaches.

Metro: Any station on the yellow line from Barceloneta to Selva de Mar.

Published by
en by Momondo, 13. Oct 2007

Go Gaudi

Weird animals and strange organic shapes. A way of using the materials not seen before or since by anybody else.
Antoni Gaudi’s experimental architecture was way ahead of its time.
Barcelona is synonymous with Gaudi and there is a good reason why his work is eternally popular with the tourists: It is stunning!
There are lots of possibilities to check out Gaudi’s work in Barcelona – you just have to experience his fascinating universe.
Antoni Gaudi was born on June 25 1852, and died after having been run down by a tram in 1926. A deeply religious man, he despised Picasso and he was never properly appreciated in his lifetime

Casa Mila


Photo by matze_ott

On Passeig de Gracia in Exaimple you will find Casa Mila. (Which is also called La Pedrera). It was constructed in 1905 as an apartment building, but the tenants didn’t want to move in since they didn’t know where to put the furniture. The buildings are round - built entirely without corners. You can still have a look into one of the apartments, but the best part of your visit to Casa Mila is to go to the rooftop. Gaudi created a true landscape of shapes and figures up here. You have never seen anything like this – but you will be mesmerized. The line to Casa Mila is terribly long, but worth the wait. At the end of the day the line is shorter and the sun less sharp.

Casa Mila, Passeig de Gracia, 92

Parc Güell

Parc Güell looks like how a grown-up might experience Alice in Wonderland. At the foot of the mountain, Gaudi has created a surreal, exotic fantasy landscape with artificial palm-trees made of clay, which form the shadowy arcades. A ceramics lizard and a snake’s head are the first things that greet you.
The main entrance is most often crowded with visitors. The park, which was rediscovered by the hippies in the 60’ies, is wonderfully psychedelic and very popular. But don’t be frightened by the masses. Once you get further into the park there is more space and a fantastic view over Barcelona. Take it in, resting on the world’s longest ceramic bench, shaped as a dragon. Don’t wear heels. The walk up to the park is steep and you have to count on walking 20 minutes from the metro. Take the green line, L3, to the stop Lesseps, and follow the signs to the park.

The world’s most famous unfinished building: La Sagrada Familia.


Photo by Rainer Ebert

On overwhelming building in organic shapes: Caverns and dripping towers. It looks like something that grew out of the earth. On the building you can see a Christmas tree and depictions of several stories from the Bible, like The Last Supper, The Crucifixion of Christ and The Resurrection. You have to walk all the way around the church and back again.


Photo by Morteno

The last years of his life, Gaudi lived in a shack on the construction site by La Sagrada Familia.
Since his death in 1926, more than a hundred architects have worked hard to complete his work. A giant undertaking that still causes disputes over how Gaudi himself would have wanted it and how it is possible to preserve his spirit.
The enormous cathedral is still under construction – the yellow cranes are fabulous! – and is expected to be finished in year 2026, which can hardly be done in time.

La Sagrada Familia, 401 Carrer de Mallorca

FC Barcelona Museum/Camp Nou

If you love soccer, this is a must-see!
The FC Barcelona Soccer Club Museum exhibits items from the club, dating back a hundred years. There are two types of admission fees. Buy the pricier one, which gives you a guided tour of the changing rooms, pressrooms, VIP lounge, and a chance to actually see the pitch at ground level. You'll also get to sit on the players’ benches and feel what it's like to sit in the best seats of the stadium. The tour guides give the commentary in both English and Spanish and they can be a lot of fun. The tour is about 45 minutes long.

FC Barcelona Museu, Aristides Maillol,
entrance number 7.

Parc del Laberint d’Horta

It’s a great walk in this big maze, made out of tall bushes and thujas. Little paths, fountains and places to sit and relax while you are - quite frankly – lost! Overlooking the maze are balconies from which people tell lost wanderers which way to choose. So you will definitely find your way back!
The park is on the slope of a hill in Collserola Mountains, in the elevated part of the city. Get there by the green subway line and get off at Mundet.
A fun way to get there is to rent a scooter – and go as a local.

Parc del Laberint d'Horta, Passeig Castanyers 1.

The Chocolate Museum

Take a tour through the origins of chocolate, learn when it arrived in Europe and best of all: taste a wide selection of the goods.
Bring your hot chocolate outside in the yard. Sit down and admire the future pastry chefs from Escola de Pastisseria del gremi Barcelona. Their classes are behind the glass walls right in front of you ...

Museu de la Xocolata de Barcelona, Comerc 36.

The Cathedral Garden

In Barri Gotic there is a beautiful little square, Placa de Garrige i Bachs. You can sit in the shade and admire the view of Catedral de Barcelona. Keep your eyes open, because all of a sudden the heavy gates will open and there is access to the garden of the cathedral and people will swarm in. Light one of the red candles and bring a little bread in your pocket to feed the thirteen geese that have their own house in the garden. They protect the cathedral against thieves and robbers. If you suffer from feather-phobia, I can assure you that they are securely fenced in.
There is a nice fountain in the garden, and inside the cathedral is breathtakingly beautiful.

Main entrance for Catedral de Barcelona, Placa de la Seu.

Don’t miss Mies

The Mies van der Rohe pavilion is squeezed in on Montjuïc.
I had expected the place to be situated with an unobstructed view over the magnificent landscape. But it’s a little overshadowed by the otherwise very beautiful Palau Nacional.
But don’t miss it. The pure lines, the long square surfaces of mat marble and shiny stone, which bring absolute peace to your eyes.
In the open salon there is a casual display of six samples of his most famous chair. These are in white leather – so you are not allowed to fling yourself down. They create a stylish foreground to a beautiful square blue marble ornamental lake in the background, which casts a hallucinating blue light over the salon.

Pavello Mies van der Rohe, Avda. Del Marquès de Comillas, 7

By Katrine Salomon

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