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en by Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 3. Jul 2008

 
Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

The other day I asked Josep Maria, one of the owners of La Cova Fumada, why they don’t have a sign outside with the name of the place. "Why should we," he answered. "People already know where it is."

Well, some people do. What Josep Maria probably meant to say was that the tiny family driven restaurant in the heart of Barcelona’s old fisherman quarter Barceloneta needs no publicity whatsoever. Once you have tried their fish and seafood-tapas you will always come back for more.

 
Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

That is if you can handle the rather chaotic and very Mediterranean atmosphere, off course. Shouting from both staff and mainly local clients is intense and the oily steam rising from pots and pans in the open kitchen gives an idea of how the restaurant got its name – la cova fumada means the smoky cavern.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

But all that just seems to underline the exquisite taste of the sardines fried with parsley and garlic. The best I have ever tried and believe me, I have consummated quite a few travelling throughout Spain and Portugal. The octopus (pulpo), the mackerel (barat) and the cod (bacalao) are other of my favourite dishes, and no lunch at La Cova should come to an end without a ‘pirata’, coffee-punch invented by Josep Maria and his family.      
  
La Cova Fumada, c/ Baluart 56, Barceloneta. Tel. 93 221 40 61. Metro: Barceloneta.

Open Monday to Friday from 9 to 15.30. Thursdays and Fridays also from 18 to 20.30. Saturdays from 9 to 13.30.

 

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en by Momondo, 13. Oct 2007

Breakfast has a low priority in Barcelona. Locals grab a cup of coffee and maybe a pastry on their way to work. Lunch is eaten between 12 and 4 P.M. and dinner between 8 and 12 P.M. Tapas is about as classic as Spanish cuisine gets and you have to try it!

 
Photo by Uriba

 

Mercat de la Boqueria

A famous food market in Barcelona is Santa Catarina Market with its wavy and colorful ceiling made of tiles. It’s good, but my personal favorite is Mercat de la Boqueria, just off the Rambla in Raval. It’s crowded and loud. With its iron roof and monstrous glass stalls, it is one of the of the world's most photographed food markets, selling everything from delicious freshly squeezed juices to fresh fish, chocolates in all shapes and nuts, spices and meat, meat and more meat. I suggest that you stop for lunch at Bar Pinotxo, where you should ask for grilled lobster. Yummy.
The market is closed on Sundays.

La Bouqueria, (Mercat de Sant Josep),
La Rambla 91.

Taller de Tapas

In El Born, go to Taller de Tapas.
Sit at the long wooden counter and look out in the kitchen for inspiration on what to pick from the menu.
It is an inexpensive place.

Taller de Tapas, l’Argenteria 51

La Campana

Also in El Born you will find a very pretty ice cream parlor where everything is home made. Besides all the ice-cream flavors, you can choose between the beautiful boxes of ”dolcos” to bring home. 

La Campana
, Carrer de la Princesa 36

Origen

Origen is a lovely little place to eat in El Born. The restaurant is extremely cozy with its small wooden tables and candles. The food is healthy and well prepared. This restaurant is much nicer and comfortable than its sister restaurant around the corner. Pick the right one!

Origen, Vidreria 6-8.

In Gracia, many locals hang out on Placa de la Virreina. At Virreina Bar they obviously recommend Cava – the Spanish Champagne. Try a few of them. The bartenders’ favorite one is Penedes. If you pick a Cava from that domain, you are in for a treat.

l’Arrosseria Xâtiva

On your way to Placa de la Virreina, you can stop at l’Arrosseria Xâtiva.
The entire place is wooden and in shades of brown. The only thing that isn’t brown are the long lamps in cream-colored fabric that hang from the ceiling. In the daytime it’s a good place for a cup of coffee among mostly older local residents. At night it becomes more crowded and the atmosphere more hectic.

l’Arrosseria Xâtiva, Torrent dén Vidalet 26.

Restaurant Agua in Barceloneta.

Wonderful view. Delicious foie gras carpaccio, potatoes with hot sauce and gourmet seafood. Book a table in advance, although I got there early at 8 P.M. without a reservation – and a fantastic hostess got me a table outside with a sea view.  It is very soothing to sit under the big blue and green sunshades, listening to the waves as night falls.

Agua, Passeig de Maritim 30.

Inopia

The pastry chef at famous restaurant El Bulli, Albert Adrià, has opened a friendly tapas bar in the Exaimple area. The founder of El Bulli, Ferran Adrià, often finds time to visit this place that belongs to his younger brother. It is a true "bar de barrio"—for the people of the neighborhood. It has a really nice atmosphere and good food! Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Inopia, Carrer de Tamarit 104

Close to Casa Mila, in a small street off Passeig de Gracia are two good restaurants:

El Japonés

The tables are in high demand, but if you haven’t booked in advance, you can put your name down and wait outside with the rest of the Barcelona crowd. You can also sit at the bar in Restaurant Tragaluz, which is across the street. They will come and get you when your table is ready.
Once you are seated, you will get a long paper menu and a pencil – so you check whatever you want to order. It’s a challenge to limit yourself! The food is Japanese. Sushi, noodles, tempura and other dainties.
It is not a place for a quiet, romantic evening, since the pace is furious and the talk is lively throughout the room.

El Japonés, Passatge de la Concepsió 2

Traguluz

Tragaluz is one of the more expensive restaurants, and it’s usually necessary to book your table in advance. The restaurant is in several levels with the bar on the bottom. I suggest you take a glass of Cava there and have a look at the extensive cocktail menu. On the top floor, under the roof, you watch the evening sky and the green terrace through panorama windows. The chef describes the cuisine food as Mediterranean avant-garde cuisine and prides himself in using only the very best products you can get. The food is exquisite – and quite pricey.

Tragaluz, Passatge de la Concepsió 5

By Katrine Salomon

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